SS Tilting Table, Does it have Limitations

[brown_hawk]

Thank you, hawk, for your observations and comments.

Yes, if I did not have the lift assist we would probably not be having this discussion. It does look as though there would then be clearance. If I could move the lift assist hardware as you suggest, I might also gain clearance but I am unable to move that bracket. If I put the bracket up against the base arm, per the installation instructions, I am unable to attach the compression cylinder.

I can also gain some depth of cut by doing without the crosscut sled. I really don't want to do that but I may have no choice.

Dusty,

Not having a lift assist, I'm flying by guess here, but here's a couple of ideas:

1) loosen those bolts just enough, without taking off the cylinder, an see if the cylinder itself will push the brace back, either by itself or with the help of a deadblow hammer or clamps;

2) raise the SS, just barely loosen the nuts, and use the deadblow or clamp idea;

3) take off the cylinder, move the bracket, and have a friend help you to compress the cylinder and get it on. From the web view, the cylinder is on the top, and the rod on the bottom. Looks like one could be on their knees pulling down, and you just above, should give you more than enough compression to get the cylinder back on.

CAVEAT!!!!! IF 1 or 2 is not allowed in the installation instructions, DO NOT ATTEMPT THEM. Like I said, I don't have one of these (yet), so I am attempting to solve a problem while I don't know all the facts about the unit. But having changed similar cylinders for auto hoods, I know how hard those can be to compress and get on.

Also, have you actually done a cut with this thickness? If it doesn't go all the way through the 3/4, how far off is it? Could you finish the cut with a utility knife? In other words, if you score the wood FIRST, would the cut then work? (Barely move the wood into the blade, use a straight edge to score the wood, do the cut. Same method Nick uses for clean cuts in ply.)

Hawk

[BigSky]

dusty,

i am sorry but I think you have caused your own problems. You have not installed the lift assist propetly. If you have not done so you need to watch the Sawdust session on the Lift Assist. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Assist.htm

[Ed in Tampa]

Dusty
Whatever you do don't loosen the lift assist bracket with the SS in the down position. The cylinder will force the bracket back toward the headstock. It could happen suddenly and with the potential to harm anything (like fingers) that might be between the bracket and table carriage.
Ed

[brown_hawk]

Dusty
Whatever you do don't loosen the lift assist bracket with the SS in the down position. The cylinder will force the bracket back toward the headstock. It could happen suddenly and with the potential to harm anything (like fingers) that might be between the bracket and table carriage.
Ed

Thanks, Ed.

I was hoping someone with more experience with the lift would chime in on those suggestions.

# 3 would be the course I would take if possible.

What about suggestion #2?

Dusty, on the picture for selling the lift assist, they have the tube on top and the rod on the bottom. If you have yours set up that way, you might just be able to grab the tube and let you weight help take it down. With the rod up, it would be harder.

Hawk

[dusty]

A grateful thank you for all who have attempted to help.

I think all is going well, except my relationship with SWMBO. I had eye surgery (cataract) last Tuesday and tomorrow is my followup with the doctor. She would have be sit and watch TV until the doc gives me a go ahead. Therefore resolution of this situation is not progressing as rapidly as it could.

The eye is fine. I need glasses to correct a nearvision deficiency and that is the only current item to be resolved.

I spoke with Customer Service this morning (Dave) and he gave me some tips. My quick glances indicate to me that what he has had me do will change my installation and may even resolve the depth of cut issue (at least at 45 degrees and less).

The lift assist bracket should be about 1/4" away from the Base Arm and not the 1"+ that you saw in the photos yesterday.

This morning, with the lift assist disconnected and out of the way, the depth of cut issue takes on a completely different flavor. I am very hopeful now.

I'm tempted to cut the bevels while I have the lift assist disconnected but I need command authorization. I don't believe that will come some.

I'm sorry. I am probably not making sense. I'll do a report when I have conclusive information to pass on.

Incidently, I had the opportunity today to move the headstock back and forth to/from vertical without the LA. I don't know how I was doing it. It makes such a difference. Pinkie, it is worth the price.

[charlese]

Dusty- Just to remind you to not strain you muscles or body for a while after having that cataract removed.

My wife had two cataracts removed last year. She had been nearsighted all of her life, and took that opportunity to have the Dr. install new lenses that made her far sighted. She thought that would be the "Cat's Meow". She can see far real good, but constantly complains about having to wear reading and computer glasses.

[pinkiewerewolf]

Dusty,, like Chuck said, take care of those peepers! Thanks for the updates on the lift assist too! It is good to hear that you're getting everything zero'd in.
You guys are right, it would be worth it to do without the extra underneath storage to NOT tear a bicep tendon again.

[dusty]

Thanks for your concerns. I have reason to believe that all is well; cataract surgery seems to have helped - now for the right eye.

The reason for this post: The SS Tilting Table does create some limitations but much less than originally thought and ONLY when installed in conjunction with the Lift Assist.

By installing the lift assist with NO GAP between the Base Arm and the Lift Assist Brackets, the depth of cut problem that I originally experienced was significantly reduced. I don't know exactly how much because I haven't been allowed to spend enough time out there to complete the analysis.

In reality, "the problem" was likely caused by improper installation. The 1"+ gap that I had (shown in a couple of the photos) should never have been greater than about 1/4" (per Dave at SS Customer Service). With the aid of a little hydaulic muscle, I now have about 1/8" of gap.

Actual measurements and a couple photos will follow. Those of you who reported that there were NO LIMITATIONS were RIGHT ON.

[brown_hawk]

Thanks for your concerns. I have reason to believe that all is well]ONLY[/B] when installed in conjunction with the Lift Assist.

By installing the lift assist with NO GAP between the Base Arm and the Lift Assist Brackets, the depth of cut problem that I originally experienced was significantly reduced. I don't know exactly how much because I haven't been allowed to spend enough time out there to complete the analysis.

In reality, "the problem" was likely caused by improper installation. The 1"+ gap that I had (shown in a couple of the photos) should never have been greater than about 1/4" (per Dave at SS Customer Service). With the aid of a little hydaulic muscle, I now have about 1/8" of gap.

Actual measurements and a couple photos will follow. Those of you who reported that there were NO LIMITATIONS were RIGHT ON.

So now it's okay to giggle and point at you whenever we get together?:D

j/k.

Glad it's solved. Nothing is more frustrating than a problem that others can't duplicate.

Hawk

[dusty]

Using a 510 or 520 without the Lift Assist and without a sliding crosscut table, the maximum depth of cut is about 3 ¾" and the maximum length of board being beveled (or mitered) is 57 ½"-58".

If using a Lift Assist, the maximum length is conditional; to acquire maximum length, depth of cut must be reduced. The Base Arm interferes with the stock being cut.

To eliminate this interference, depth of cut must be reduced to not more than 2".

If using the Shopsmith Sliding Crosscut Table, depth of cut is reduced still further to just over 1 3/32". Adjustment for greater depth of cut stops when the lower surface of either the stock or the crosscut table contacts with the Base Arm.

Thicker stock (3 ¾") can be bevel cut but maximum length is limited by the distance from the blade surface (right side) to the way tubes or Base Arm. As stated before, by reducing depth of cut (raising the table), the interference is eliminated and longer stock can be bevel cut.

Disclaimer: All of these measurements were made assuming that your Shopsmith was sitting on something like a concrete shop floor. If longer pieces must be cut, simply move your Shopsmith to the edge of a loading dock (as an example) and length is limited only by distance to the ground as measured on the tilt. If still greater length is required, well……

Primary Conclusion: The tilting table does not seriously limit the performance characteristics of the Shopsmith. However, installing either a Lift Assist or a Sliding Crosscut Table does change some of the maximum dimensions of material being cut on a tilted table.

Secondary Conclusion: Not following factory instructions can introduce still further limitations.