drill press shaft stuck

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:36 am

Im diggin in and getting educated. wile still in the lay down position the DP shaft was stuck, so I removed the ban saw and th jig saw, raised the DP in a upright position. I lifted the top cover @ the motor, the gears and everything in there was clean but dry as a bone.
I held pressure on the DP handle and tapped a few taps on the shaft, it came down a little bit with each tap. When it was completely extended I sprayed some liquid wrench on the shaft and then cleaned it with some near nothing emerycloth. After a few minutes I wiped it clean and sprayed the shaft,gears and speed control mechanism with 3 N 1 oil. after working the DP shaft for a few minutes, now when released it returns to its up position perfectly.
Another note and question. The PO had replaced the power cord,switch and caster wheels. The switch is a low qualith toggle switch, so, my question, is there a more safty factor switch that should be there, that can be switched off (easier and faster)in a panic situation?
Also, How can I determan approx. the year the SS was built? Thanks guys, I have done lots a reading and watched video's on this forum, thanks for the help.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:57 am

Did you loosen/adjust the quill set screw on the top of the headstock. That set screw is a half dog that rides in a groove at the top(when horizontal) of the quill and serves as a stop(the groove stops prior to the top(left) end of the quill.

All that shaft banging may have stressed the quill bearings.

Oil in the interior of the headstock will allow saw dust to turn into crud. Do not worry about that now, the deed is done. Clean out any accumulation the next yer in thar!

On the 'left' end of the headstock(where two 'PTO's) are located, there is a round perforated vent plate surrounding the lower one. There will be either a serial # or a date. Later on a sticker was used separate from the plate.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 1:07 pm

drbailey, welcome to the forum.

I believe the DP shaft that you refer to is the quill. The quill handle should move the quill in and out with virtually no effort. You might want to view the Sawdust Sessions as you tackle these maintenance tasks. I believe you will find them very helpful. The one that linked to covers the quill.

Again, welcome and I hope this helps.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:24 pm

'Details' not included in the sawdust session:

The set screw can be tightened with the screw misaligned with the groove. Doing so may damage the sides of the groove and create a burr which will cause the quill to 'stick'. Judicious filing of the groove sides will remove that burr.

The drive shaft may not align with the white coupler and may need to be rotated to align when reinserting the quill into the headstock.

Caveat!!!! Do not let the quill feed handle free wheel under return spring tension. The hub may over travel and become unconnected to the return spring(a possible pita undertaking to fix that).

There are other areas that can complicate yer life, so I recommend stating yer intentions here and we can possibly point out the pitfalls before you fall into them.

Welcome to this funny farm!:)

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:51 pm

Thanks for responding guys, I wondered about the oil and the dust in the enclosed area. I will clean the 3 n 1 oil out with some aerosol degreased that I use. wont be a problem.
I didnt hammer on the quill, "per say" I tapped on a ring that looks to be a grooved twist grip while holding pressure on the quill handle. The quill had a rust area that was holding it, like from moister.
I will post a pic of the lower quill and grip.
the serial # is SS-168301
I didnt get to do anything in the shop today, I put a wood floor in one of my trailors and painted it john deere green.
maintenence!!
Tomorrow I will locate the set screws and see what other questions I can come up with, lol

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:58 pm

I forgot the pic

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:18 pm

Tapping indeed. Anything more forceful may have driven it off the shaft.

Have you tried to get the drill chuck off? Another set screw. That one should have a flat point.

The knurled collar is also retained by a set screw. Both the collar and the drill chuck have a tapered flat on the shaft they mount on. The collar need only be removed if replacing the quill bearing.

Be careful if getting the drill chuck off becomes troublesome. That shaft is what everything that is power driven attaches to. The end of the quill that is 'below' the retaining ring and rubber ring also is an attachment surface.

1984

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/serialnumber.htm

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:46 pm

JPG, the drill chuck was off when I bought it, it slips on and off with ease, the set screw is tightened now.
wow, 1984, same year I started my Body shop bussiness.
That seems old, Im surprised at the condition for that old.
I sure appriciate you time and help

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 11:59 am

Some pieces off e bay arrived today, still two orders coming.
wont be much work done for a couple days, I pulled something in my lower back yesterday evening.
My brain is not smart enough to tell my body NO,dont do that!"

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:36 pm

got to thinking One of these PDFs might be helpful:) http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... 0_1_14.pdf