Router table insert

[hjlssfor1]

The two attached images show a router table insert I am building that will hang off the rails of my Shopsmith (thanks to Shipwright for the inspiration on this). I am trying to reuse (on my Shopsmith table) the fence from a Skill router table I have.

[ATTACH]23089[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23090[/ATTACH]

To mount the Skill fence on my Shopsmith table, I must cut two through grooves in my Shopsmith table top, which is ¾” ply with a formica top. The through groove cut will run for 15 – 16”, and needs to be 5/16” wide. The groove (one above and one below the router plate insert in the photos) will start at the line starting at about the left side of the black insert plate and run left to within about 3” of the end of the table top.

The first image gives you the overview, and the second image shows the approximate cut line for the through grooves.

I am a beginner at woodworking, and I am not sure how to cut those grooves. What advice can you give as to technique/s to make the groove cut? Is this a job for the table saw dado blades, a handheld router, or something else?

Any counsel would be appreciated.

Hank

[hjlssfor1]

As I think more about this, I do not need the grooves to run as far in distance as I said in my original message. I expect that 3 or 4" would be plenty (I do not intend to be using huge/wide router bits!).

My question as to cutting technique still stand, and I would appreciate any ideas on how to cut the groove.

Hank

[mountainbreeze]

If it were me, I'd use a dado blade on my table saw to make the grooves. The advantage is that you can fine tune the width and depth on scraps and then make the cut in a single pass.

I believe this method is easier to set up and more accurate than with a router. Just my opinion.

[hjlssfor1]

If it were me, I'd use a dado blade on my table saw to make the grooves. The advantage is that you can fine tune the width and depth on scraps and then make the cut in a single pass.

I believe this method is easier to set up and more accurate than with a router. Just my opinion.

Thanks, Bill, for your advice. Hank

[shipwright]

I'm assuming that in your iteration you are unable to use the ShopSmith fence? That was the main attraction for me when I built mine. Can you give us more photos?

Paul M

[THOMRIDER]

To cut the slots I would use a plunge router if you have one, along with a straight edge guide.

[chris jay]

that's a great idea. Having a router table on a SS once I get one is one of the features I want. Can you post the instruction for that?

[hjlssfor1]

I'm assuming that in your iteration you are unable to use the ShopSmith fence? That was the main attraction for me when I built mine. Can you give us more photos?

Paul M

I apologize for my late response. I have been more or less AWOL from the forums because we are closing up in Montana, and I have spent the last several days working around the house and yard.

I finally got to the shop this afternoon, and took a few photos. The first shows the overall plan to use the fence from my Skill router table. It has a dust port, a t-track, and movable fence pieces that adjust to the size of the router bit.
[ATTACH]23106[/ATTACH]

My thought was that, if I did not like that arrangement, I could use a fence like Shipwright's here.

I had the time to cut the grooves for the fence:
[ATTACH]23107[/ATTACH]

This shows the hardware for adjusting the height of the Rockler base plate I installed:
[ATTACH]23108[/ATTACH]

Just before dinner I finished it!:
[ATTACH]23109[/ATTACH]

I haven't turned on the router yet, but after a little cleanup work, the table should be ready to go.
Hank

[shipwright]

I get the idea Hank. You've got a perfectly good router fence with some nice features. Why not use it? You've answered my question.
Thanks

Paul M

[hjlssfor1]

The router table insert is much improved with a handle:

[ATTACH]23118[/ATTACH]
Hank