Has anyone connected non SS brand add ons to their SS?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:50 pm

jere wrote:Thanks for the tip about the belt. You are right about the existing belt being stiff. It doesn't like not being in an oval shape, and I the vibrations almost seem like they happen once per rotation. I have some link belt around to try so I will have to try it out

Some belt dressing on the stiff belt may do wonders!

Also there are 'top cog' belts with the nubs on top that are more flexible.

When storing, invert the belt(roll skinny side out). Apply dressing prior to each storage period.

jere · Post by **jere** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:29 pm

Thanks I will grab a can of the belt dressing the next time I see some. I have a few old V belts that might benefit from that stuff as well as reversing the belt for storage.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Wed Oct 23, 2013 11:57 pm

jere wrote:Thanks I will grab a can of the belt dressing the next time I see some. I have a few old V belts that might benefit from that stuff as well as reversing the belt for storage.

I used belt dressing (stick) for more than 60 years on drive belts and switched recently (last 5 years) to belt conditioner (spray can, auto store). I get less dirt, belt dust and crud buildup on and around the belt with the spray and found it works really well for me. I use the belt conditioner on the black bandsaw tires, belt sander drive pulley cover and all drum sanders. I use it on the pressure rollers for the thickness planer and on any rubber like material that is driving or guiding other materials. The spray seems to penetract deeper into the material than the belt dressing and keeps the material from drying out and cracking and checking, keeps the material flexible. I spray all my belts (inside out) and link belts before storing them. I find the belt conditioner can really help quiet the belt noise for the reaves drives systems where the belt in normally misaligned most of the time. I use several cans of the spray-on belt conditioner each year.

jere · Post by **jere** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:26 pm

Thanks for the testimonial Bill, I will have to pick some spray up the next time I go to change the oil in the car.

nonameface · Post by **nonameface** » Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:57 am

I'm a new Shopsmith owner but grew up watching my dad use one (My dad bought one new in 1982). I found one on craigslist for $550 (510) with belt sander and band saw in great condition. Mine is vintage 1986.

Anyways, I had an idea to run my antique cast hand crank meat grinder off of the shopsmith headstock and saw this thread with the v-belt pulleys attached to the shopsmith.
How are people attaching these to the shopsmith? Its clear on the E and ER models as the motor already has one attached, but on the 510 headstock I would need to attach it to the accessory drive (or high speed drive) or to the quill (though side pressure on the quill probably is bad for the bearings). Does SS sell an accessory to allow attachments like this? I can step down the speed with multiple pulleys, but I can't figure out how they are attaching them to begin with. Anybody have a suggestion?

peterm · Post by **peterm** » Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:59 pm

In the article below, he removed the drive hub off the accessory shaft and slid on a 2" pulley having a 5/8" center hole:
[ATTACH]23113[/ATTACH]
You could probably run your meat grinder the same way. If the Shopsmith is running at slow (700rpm), the 2" and 7" pulleys shown with the jack shaft would spin your grinder at 100rpm. Is that still too fast?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:18 am

prmindartmouth wrote:In the article below, he removed the drive hub off the accessory shaft and slid on a 2" pulley having a 5/8" center hole:
[ATTACH]23113[/ATTACH]
You could probably run your meat grinder the same way. If the Shopsmith is running at slow (700rpm), the 2" and 7" pulleys shown with the jack shaft would spin your grinder at 100rpm. Is that still too fast?

Sure that '100' rpm is not closer to 57 rpm?;)

peterm · Post by **peterm** » Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:58 am

JPG is absolutely right, first set of pulleys reduce speed at jack shaft by 2/7 to 200rpm and then second set reduce the 200 by 2/7 again to 57.14rpm.
JPG explains later (at #26) in this post, which I forgot about.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... jack+shaft

jere · Post by **jere** » Thu Oct 31, 2013 2:18 am

I am not worried about the bearing they get a lot of abuse any way and hold up well. Plus they are cheap and pretty easy to replace. I was just looking at the prices today for a free delta bandsaw I am fixing. I spent less than $4 for two bearings, even if they only last a year they are worth their cost. You can find all sizes of pulleys on ebay if you do go that route. I am using a pulley that came from an old air compressor.

Oh and I found I can get a few lower RPM with a link belt. With mine I can turn the dial down past slow to fast. The link belts are a little thicker than the V belts. I don't know how much of a reduction that is but for a meat grinder I would think you would want as slow as possible.

nonameface · Post by **nonameface** » Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:45 am

The speed I'm shooting for is around 70-130 RPM. I'm sure I can get the speed right by changing the pulley sizes (and plugging the numbers into a formula) I'll just have to attach it to the accessory drive of the shopsmith.

Once I get it attached it will all be good from there! Thanks for the ideas.

I really like the picture of that speed reducer attached to the bottom bars, I think I'll set mine up a similar way and just leave it attached there. That's pretty slick, simple, and out of the way, yet easy to get to when needed.