Partition construction
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Partition construction
I want to build a partition for a space 24 x 14 x 9. I have done a trial partition using 1/4" plywood but it is too flimsy (see attachment). The parts fit well just not stable. What am I missing as to a more stable partition?
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- Partition-for-shoes,-11-11-2013.jpg (33.93 KiB) Viewed 1055 times
- Ed in Tampa
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If it were me I would simply nail some cleats on to the existing shelves to hold the dividers in position. I would put two, one under each end of the horizontal board and four more, two each on the either side of both vertical boards. I imagine simple 1x1 cut the length of the shelf depth would work perfectly.
Using cleats would allow the dividers to be easily removed should you decide you want to.
Using cleats would allow the dividers to be easily removed should you decide you want to.
Ed in Tampa
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Stay out of trouble!
- dusty
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rayj wrote:I want to build a partition for a space 24 x 14 x 9. I have done a trial partition using 1/4" plywood but it is too flimsy (see attachment). The parts fit well just not stable. What am I missing as to a more stable partition?
Did you glue the veticals to the center horizontal?
If you don't want to permanently join the verticals to the horizontals, maybe this would work.
[ATTACH]23222[/ATTACH]
Placing a support piece in each corner.
This would stabilize the shelves while allowing them to be removable; leaving no trace of having been there on the original shelf.
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- Shoe Divider (Custom).png (11.82 KiB) Viewed 1075 times
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Dusty
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Dusty
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- robinson46176
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I'm sitting here laughing as I had first read your message in my mind as feet, not inches.
Imagine my surprise when I opened the picture.
After I saw the picture a solution jumped to my mind but Dusty has already posted it. It looks like a good solution to me. Just cut one or two long pieces and chop up enough for all of the corners. It should become sturdy and still be a lift out divider.
Good luck.
.
After I saw the picture a solution jumped to my mind but Dusty has already posted it. It looks like a good solution to me. Just cut one or two long pieces and chop up enough for all of the corners. It should become sturdy and still be a lift out divider.
Good luck.
.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
- JPG
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What is missing is a tight joint(notches?).
That is difficult with thin materials.
The cleats are the only practical option IMHO.
They do not need to be large(although bigger is gooder!).
I think one on both sides of the vertical partitions that are glued to the underside of the horizontal partition will make it rigid enough to support the shoes. 3/4" cove molding oughta work.
Ya similar to Dusty. He posted while I was 'composing'.
Farmer my initial reaction to the title was 'wall partitions also'.
That is difficult with thin materials.
The cleats are the only practical option IMHO.
They do not need to be large(although bigger is gooder!).
I think one on both sides of the vertical partitions that are glued to the underside of the horizontal partition will make it rigid enough to support the shoes. 3/4" cove molding oughta work.
Ya similar to Dusty. He posted while I was 'composing'.
Farmer my initial reaction to the title was 'wall partitions also'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
two more cleats might help
Since you have 'flimsy' material you might put a cleat under each end of the horiz piece - out where they meet the sides. That way any material on the 'shelf' won't bend down the shelf at the ends. If installing a 'permanent' cleat to your bookcase wall is not a good idea, then hope for the best or put the heavy stuff in the middle 'shelf.':)
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser