dusty wrote:I don't understand the bolded text. The blade that was used to cut the kerf has some runout. That runout is included in the width of the kerf. What's to calculate?
Exactly. Take it to the next step. The kerf is total of the blade and runout. If you know the blade width (without runout) and the kerf width (with runout), you can calculate the runout.
Whether or not you NEED to calculate the runout is another story. Maybe just to compare blades and toss those with "excessive" runout?
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
Very good information on various alignment procedures. I do have a the SS Critical Alignments Video which is what I followed when I did my my alignments. The problem I felt I was encountering with the table to rotation axis alignment was that the in-feed side of the table would not move the extra several thousandths to the right I needed because it was binding on the narrower rear trunnion holes.
This brings me back to my other question which seems to have been over looked. What kind of bits I should use to drill out the out-feed trunnion holes to match the 1/2" speck of the front trunnion holes? Or in other words are there special metal cutting bits that I need? Also, I was wondering whether using my Speed Reducer (which I have yet to use) will be helpful.
Woodhead
Just a chip off the ol' block!
1993 SS Mark V 510 with a 520 Upgrade, 520 Extension Fence (2) Extension Tables, (4) Floating Tables (4) connecting tubes (2) SS Band Saw, SS Jointer, SS Belt Sander, SS Power Station, SS DC3300
woodhead52 wrote:Very good information on various alignment procedures. I do have a the SS Critical Alignments Video which is what I followed when I did my my alignments. The problem I felt I was encountering with the table to rotation axis alignment was that the in-feed side of the table would not move the extra several thousandths to the right I needed because it was binding on the narrower rear trunnion holes.
This brings me back to my other question which seems to have been over looked. What kind of bits I should use to drill out the out-feed trunnion holes to match the 1/2" speck of the front trunnion holes? Or in other words are there special metal cutting bits that I need? Also, I was wondering whether using my Speed Reducer (which I have yet to use) will be helpful.
Might you have been able to "move the outfeed side to the left"?
Whenever I need to do a table alignment from scratch (all four trunnion bolts loose), I push the table in and to the left as far as it will move. I then tighten the pivot point bolt just firm enough to keep it from moving and go from there.
NOTE: The rail nut that is causing you grief could be removed to facilitate the alignment and then replaced.This would ascertain whether or not the nut is interfering in a manner that precludes alignment.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
woodhead52 wrote:Very good information on various alignment procedures. I do have a the SS Critical Alignments Video which is what I followed when I did my my alignments. The problem I felt I was encountering with the table to rotation axis alignment was that the in-feed side of the table would not move the extra several thousandths to the right I needed because it was binding on the narrower rear trunnion holes.
This brings me back to my other question which seems to have been over looked. What kind of bits I should use to drill out the out-feed trunnion holes to match the 1/2" speck of the front trunnion holes? Or in other words are there special metal cutting bits that I need? Also, I was wondering whether using my Speed Reducer (which I have yet to use) will be helpful.
You want to drill the trunnions at a low speed. I did mine with an adjustable speed hand drill. I don't know what speed I used.
As far as bit spec's - I don't have any to offer. I have a set of metal cutting twist bits. I started small and worked my way up to the desired size. If a recall correctly, I only used two or three steps up.
If you use a hand drill, be careful. Be prepared for the bit to dig in. When that happens, the bit quits turning and the drill motor takes its place. This can really hurt.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty;
I do check the blade for flatness before I make the other checks. My blades are flat to less than .001". Then I check for run out by slowly checking with the blade mounted to the spindle. I believe that my info came from Nick in one of his maintenance videos. By the way, A good quality blade should be very flat but most manufacturers do not post that spec.
Bill V
woodhead52 wrote:What kind of bits I should use to drill out the out-feed trunnion holes to match the 1/2" speck of the front trunnion holes? Or in other words are there special metal cutting bits that I need? Also, I was wondering whether using my Speed Reducer (which I have yet to use) will be helpful.
YES YES use your speed reducer. Use a twist drill bit for metal and START with the bit that is the same size as the existing hole. That way ya can get the hole lined up and clamped down. Then switch out the bit to the next size bit that's 1/64" larger. Till ya get to the final size of 1/2". Don't forget to use lube on each of the bits.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
It might give you a few ideas/answers. If you happen to be near another owner here they might offer to do the drilling for you or let you use their machine. I'd offer but I'm located near Chicago, well 35ish miles west but you get the idea.
I might be the only one here but I purchased a master plate
and this is what I now use for my alignment. A lot of pluses for this but then there is the cost. I for one think it is worth it.
I have a new way of do my alignments, and no I have not posted it here yet. The problem comes in that you need the master plate to do it so I figured most people here were not going to pay the price for one....
Maybe next spring I'll show how I do it when I swap tables on one of my 520. Though I'd get that done this year but didn't. To give you a hint the master plate fits in the miter slot....
It might give you a few ideas/answers. If you happen to be near another owner here they might offer to do the drilling for you or let you use their machine. I'd offer but I'm located near Chicago, well 35ish miles west but you get the idea.
I might be the only one here but I purchased a master plate
and this is what I now use for my alignment. A lot of pluses for this but then there is the cost. I for one think it is worth it.
I have a new way of do my alignments, and no I have not posted it here yet. The problem comes in that you need the master plate to do it so I figured most people here were not going to pay the price for one....
Maybe next spring I'll show how I do it when I swap tables on one of my 520. Though I'd get that done this year but didn't. To give you a hint the master plate fits in the miter slot....
Ed
I have given serious thought to a Master Plate but have not purchased one due to cost. Today, I did an alignment verification using a flat sanding disk. It worked fine.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
beeg wrote:YES YES use your speed reducer. Use a twist drill bit for metal and START with the bit that is the same size as the existing hole. That way ya can get the hole lined up and clamped down. Then switch out the bit to the next size bit that's 1/64" larger. Till ya get to the final size of 1/2". Don't forget to use lube on each of the bits.
Aluminum is VERY easy to drill with the right speed. The rpm for aluminum with a twist bit is 600 divided by bit diameter. 1/2" bit would be 1200 rpm and 1/4" bit would be 2400 rpm, but if you are nervous you can use 750 rpm (slow setting WITHOUT the speed reducer). Do use some type of lube (WD40 or 3-in-1 oil both work well). If your rpm's are too slow it will be difficult to cut/feed or won't cut as cleanly. I would be happy as long as it drills cleanly.
Do make sure your bits have limited wobble and use a twist bit as stated above (you can also get away using a sharp standard bit but the rpm should be about half or a little less than a twist bit.
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
dusty wrote:Might you have been able to "move the outfeed side to the left"?
Whenever I need to do a table alignment from scratch (all four trunnion bolts loose), I push the table in and to the left as far as it will move. I then tighten the pivot point bolt just firm enough to keep it from moving and go from there.
NOTE: The rail nut that is causing you grief could be removed to facilitate the alignment and then replaced. This would ascertain whether or not the nut is interfering in a manner that precludes alignment.
I believe the table was as far in and to the left as the out side trunnion holes would allow. Removing that rail bolt and nut might be an answer if it's possible without removing the trunnion. I will try it.
dusty wrote:... If you use a hand drill, be careful. Be prepared for the bit to dig in. When that happens, the bit quits turning and the drill motor takes its place. This can really hurt.
Been There!
Thanks for all of your advice.
Pete
Woodhead
Just a chip off the ol' block!
1993 SS Mark V 510 with a 520 Upgrade, 520 Extension Fence (2) Extension Tables, (4) Floating Tables (4) connecting tubes (2) SS Band Saw, SS Jointer, SS Belt Sander, SS Power Station, SS DC3300
