Question about table saw alignment

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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

dusty wrote:We so often disagree and this is no exception. Unless he does a lot of metal work, it is unlikely that he'll use these drill bits again for a long time. With that in mind, I would simple go to a big box (anywhere that sells singles) and buy two bits of the correct size.

I mean, after all, two holes. That is all, two holes both of which have been predrilled. Now I do realize that some people use just about anything as an excuse to buy tools but I don't. I am a cheap sucker. I spend without hesitation for something I really need but "two holes".

I have a set of good bits (probably very expensive) (we won't discuss why I have them or how I came to have them) but two thirds of them have never been chucked.
I totally agree. I find that any woodworking show will have one or more booths selling single drill bits. This is a great place to find drill bits larger than 1/2" that are really expensive elsewhere. I normally collect about a dozen or more different sizes and offer $10 at the checkout counter which has always worked for me. True, I have many more drill bits never chucked than ones used. Easier to use another drill bit than attempt to sharpen one. I have a nice drill bit sharpening setup that I hope to mount someday and sharpen the drawer full of dull drill bits that I have collected. I put the dull bits in a separate drawer so I do not try to use them again.
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Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

JPG40504 wrote:Look for 'made in USA'.

Look for higher prices.

Look for material code. HSS A2

Look for a 'real' hardware store.

Look for a machine tool shop supplier.


orrr just go to Lowes, HD, Ace ...



IIWM, I would get a good set(1/16" - 1/2" by 64ths) and be set for future use. Take a fat billfold. Properly used, they will last!
I'm confused:confused: Ya said "Look for a 'real' hardware store." BUT mentioned 2 big box stores.:D
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I said 'real' first, then assuming none could be 'found', go to BB 'store'.

I have purchased a few 'full' sets over the years and have never regretted that action. Yes some are 'seldom' used, but when ya need one, ya got one(or more).

Best ones I ever got were from a machine shop jobber. No they were not cheap. Yes they held a good edge.

And keep in mind stuff other than wood or aluminum is often drilled by me.

Now about 'numbered' bits and 'alphabetic' bits . . . . :rolleyes:

And those straight ones with no flutes and a center dimple.;)

Oh and titanium nitride etc. if not done properly sucks!(IMHO) All 'gold' is not equal.:(

However, if ya anticipate NEVER needing other sizes. do as Dusty and Bill say.:cool: Do however get 'good' ones!:)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

[quote="wa2crk"]Dusty]

Bill; How do you check a blade for flatness?

I mount the blade in question and spin it at a slow speed and watch it. If it has any "wobble", I can see that but I don't believe I can rightly call that a flatness test.
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woodhead52
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Concerning Drill Bits

Post by woodhead52 »

Concerning Drill Bits:

Thanks for the good help.

I have a set of multipurpose Dewalt Bits which are pretty good, but in the larger sizes they jump from 3/8" to 1/2" with nothing in between. I'm worried, due to my lack of metal drilling experience, that taking the rear trunnion holes from 3/8" which they are now all the way to 1/2" might be to big a jump.

Should I get one or two more bits to help inch my way up?
Woodhead
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1993 SS Mark V 510 with a 520 Upgrade, 520 Extension Fence (2) Extension Tables, (4) Floating Tables (4) connecting tubes (2) SS Band Saw, SS Jointer, SS Belt Sander, SS Power Station, SS DC3300
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

woodhead52 wrote:Concerning Drill Bits:

Thanks for the good help.

I have a set of multipurpose Dewalt Bits which are pretty good, but in the larger sizes they jump from 3/8" to 1/2" with nothing in between. I'm worried, due to my lack of metal drilling experience, that taking the rear trunnion holes from 3/8" which they are now all the way to 1/2" might be to big a jump.

Should I get one or two more bits to help inch my way up?
Are you using a Shopsmith to drill these holes or are you drilling with a drill motor. If using a drill motor, I would get an in between size. Cutting an 1/8" with a hand drill could be dramatic.

If doing this on the Shopsmith, I thing you can make that jump from 3/8" to 1/4" in one step. If that is to be the approach, clamp the trunnion in place so that it can not move on you and advance the drill bit slowly. Don't try to hog it out.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

woodhead52 wrote:Concerning Drill Bits:

Thanks for the good help.

I have a set of multipurpose Dewalt Bits which are pretty good, but in the larger sizes they jump from 3/8" to 1/2" with nothing in between. I'm worried, due to my lack of metal drilling experience, that taking the rear trunnion holes from 3/8" which they are now all the way to 1/2" might be to big a jump.

Should I get one or two more bits to help inch my way up?

Here is an example of why a 'complete set' is desirable. There are 8 steps from 3/8 to 1/2 by 64ths.

I would definitely NOT jump from 3/8 to 1/2. If wanting to minimize bit purchases, I would suggest 7/16,15/32, then 1/2.

If I were doing this, I would likely add 13/32 and 31/64 to the sequence.

The critical thing is to securely clamp the trunion block and drill(feed) slowly. A drill press makes this a much easier/accurate task. Add positioning of the bit to the workpiece as being important.

A unibit would work here if it is long enough. At least it could provide a hole starter from, both ends of the hole.

P.S. Chatter could be a problem with large jumps.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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woodhead52
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Post by woodhead52 »

So Dusty and JPG, Do you guys always say the exact opposite of each other or am I a special case. :D

You both present such a knowledgeable case for your comments that I can find no fault with either of your answers.

Dusty to answer your question: I intend to use my Shopsmith to drill out the holes, but, because of my inexperience I'll probably follow your advice JPG in that I'll get at least one or maybe two transition bits.

I hope you both know I'm just ribbing you a bit. I sincerely appreciate the advice you both bring, undoubtedly backed by lots of experience.

Pete
Woodhead
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1993 SS Mark V 510 with a 520 Upgrade, 520 Extension Fence (2) Extension Tables, (4) Floating Tables (4) connecting tubes (2) SS Band Saw, SS Jointer, SS Belt Sander, SS Power Station, SS DC3300
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Post by JPG »

woodhead52 wrote:So Dusty and JPG, Do you guys always say the exact opposite of each other or am I a special case. :D

You both present such a knowledgeable case for your comments that I can find no fault with either of your answers.

Dusty to answer your question: I intend to use my Shopsmith to drill out the holes, but, because of my inexperience I'll probably follow your advice JPG in that I'll get at least one or maybe two transition bits.

I hope you both know I'm just ribbing you a bit. I sincerely appreciate the advice you both bring, undoubtedly backed by lots of experience.

Pete

I can assure you that neither Dusty nor I are ignorant of our sometimes opposing opinions. That said, I for one respect those differing opinions and agree they are well founded from his experience. At times my experience differs from his.;)

There are often times we are in total agreement.:)



Then at times we both be wrong.:eek:(rare occasions):D Although we may differ in the details, the different approaches are informative.

It is the sharing of those experience based opinions that makes this forum special. I have learned much here. :):cool:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

woodhead52 wrote:So Dusty and JPG, Do you guys always say the exact opposite of each other or am I a special case. :D

You both present such a knowledgeable case for your comments that I can find no fault with either of your answers.

Dusty to answer your question: I intend to use my Shopsmith to drill out the holes, but, because of my inexperience I'll probably follow your advice JPG in that I'll get at least one or maybe two transition bits.

I hope you both know I'm just ribbing you a bit. I sincerely appreciate the advice you both bring, undoubtedly backed by lots of experience.

Pete

As a matter of fact, we probably disagree with one another more than we agree.

JPG is an engineer and I was nothing more than an engineering technician. I was the grunt. I've got no book learning. I spent all my time in the lab making what came out of the design suite upstairs work.
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