SS quill getting hot and seizing problem
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To clarify JPG's question the "collar" is the knurled bright metal device that is on the end of the quill. The set screw on the collar will line up with the flat on the quill shaft. If the collar is installed backwards then it will get HOT real fast. The smaller end should point toward the bearings.
Bill V
P.S. How tight are you mounting the lathe work? Overtightening the lathe work MAY put too much load on the bearings. I just re-read your original post and you did say that it only overheats in the lathe mode. Is that correct?
Bill V
P.S. How tight are you mounting the lathe work? Overtightening the lathe work MAY put too much load on the bearings. I just re-read your original post and you did say that it only overheats in the lathe mode. Is that correct?
thanks for the clarification as to what the collar is. that might be the trouble. the small end of the that aluminum collar was facing away from the bearings. that is the way it was put together when I got it, and does seem to have so wear.wa2crk wrote:To clarify JPG's question the "collar" is the knurled bright metal device that is on the end of the quill. The set screw on the collar will line up with the flat on the quill shaft. If the collar is installed backwards then it will get HOT real fast. The smaller end should point toward the bearings.
Bill V
P.S. How tight are you mounting the lathe work? Overtightening the lathe work MAY put too much load on the bearings. I just re-read your original post and you did say that it only overheats in the lathe mode. Is that correct?
you are correct that the problem only happens with wood on the lathe.
I have a few photo coming soon once I get past some technical issues.
https://picasaweb.google.com/jeremcfadd ... smithStuff
OK there is the album of photos, for some reason the individual photos are not showing up. I took photos of both bearing numbers, and the assembly. I am curious what else might not be right. is there an assembly diagram around that might give me a better idea?
OK there is the album of photos, for some reason the individual photos are not showing up. I took photos of both bearing numbers, and the assembly. I am curious what else might not be right. is there an assembly diagram around that might give me a better idea?
It looks like in pic #1 you have two bearings and pic 3 it's a single bearing? Also in pic #1 it looks like the 2nd bearing is in the wrong position. I thought it was closer to the forward one?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
beeg wrote:It looks like in pic #1 you have two bearings and pic 3 it's a single bearing? Also in pic #1 it looks like the 2nd bearing is in the wrong position. I thought it was closer to the forward one?
it is a two bearing quill, though I wouldn't be surprised if something else isn't right. the third picture is of a spacer that butts up against a bearing. the bearing is removed to get a better view of it.
I forgot to mention that spacer, how is it supposed to be mounted? currently it fits over the quill shaft and pushes a bearing against a clip in the quill housing.
That was the first 1984 double bearing quill. Shopsmith went to several different 2 part quills later that had a smaller back bearing 32mm than the front bearing 35mm. Their latest has a 40mm front bearing and a second 35mm bearing about an 1" back from the front bearing. I find if the poly-V belt tension is too tight, the whole headstock can get very hot.beeg wrote:It looks like in pic #1 you have two bearings and pic 3 it's a single bearing? Also in pic #1 it looks like the 2nd bearing is in the wrong position. I thought it was closer to the forward one?
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- JPG
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I cannot tell from the pix if the collar has rubbing damage, but for sure it should NOT rub against the quill housing.
I assume you have measured the shaft od at the bearing locations and the bearings match that. The 6202RS-10 has a 5/8" inner race. I do not know the proper bearing sizes for this quill, but careful measuring(to within 0.001") should have indicated to you the proper sizes. Most likely the od and 'length' will be metric.
If as you indicated this only occurred after starting lathe work, the collar is highly suspect since that places pressure towards the quill. Again the collar should never rub against the quill housing.
The few quills I have replaced bearings in were a slip fit as you described, but not 'loose'.
P.S. By 'measuring', I meant the shaft and quill housing bore, not the old bearings.
I assume you have measured the shaft od at the bearing locations and the bearings match that. The 6202RS-10 has a 5/8" inner race. I do not know the proper bearing sizes for this quill, but careful measuring(to within 0.001") should have indicated to you the proper sizes. Most likely the od and 'length' will be metric.
If as you indicated this only occurred after starting lathe work, the collar is highly suspect since that places pressure towards the quill. Again the collar should never rub against the quill housing.
The few quills I have replaced bearings in were a slip fit as you described, but not 'loose'.
P.S. By 'measuring', I meant the shaft and quill housing bore, not the old bearings.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
that is very interesting stuff hearing the history of bearing placement change. why do you think they changed placement around so much bill?billmayo wrote:That was the first 1984 double bearing quill. Shopsmith went to several different 2 part quills later that had a smaller back bearing 32mm than the front bearing 35mm. Their latest has a 40mm front bearing and a second 35mm bearing about an 1" back from the front bearing. I find if the poly-V belt tension is too tight, the whole headstock can get very hot.
good call on measuring the shaft and not the old bearings. I will have to check that out. you are on point with the bearings being metric on the outer diameter and impeial on the inner.JPG40504 wrote:I cannot tell from the pix if the collar has rubbing damage, but for sure it should NOT rub against the quill housing.
I assume you have measured the shaft od at the bearing locations and the bearings match that. The 6202RS-10 has a 5/8" inner race. I do not know the proper bearing sizes for this quill, but careful measuring(to within 0.001") should have indicated to you the proper sizes. Most likely the od and 'length' will be metric.
If as you indicated this only occurred after starting lathe work, the collar is highly suspect since that places pressure towards the quill. Again the collar should never rub against the quill housing.
The few quills I have replaced bearings in were a slip fit as you described, but not 'loose'.
P.S. By 'measuring', I meant the shaft and quill housing bore, not the old bearings.
the collar looks like it has some a ring of metal missing from it from being backwards for a long time. but I think it should be alright once it is in the correct position
thanks for all the help guys hopefully I will be done with the trouble for now