Power Pro Makeshift OPR

[redleg]

Edit: (See Post #10 for parts list and a simpler version using the complete extension table at the top.) I needed to make a double sided name sign for the mail box post. Not exactly top of line Shopsmith but it will work for what I need to do. While some the items I used were things I had on hand I will include a like item from Lowes.com. Actual cost if you buy everything except the extension table should be $40 or less.

I ground the end of the eyebolt in this picture as near as possible to the shape of the quill handle. Eye Bolt 3/8"x 4" #22216, Cable 1/16" Weldless Steel (by the foot) #348161 buy ten feet, Turnbuckle 5/16"x 9" #22241, Chain Ferrules and Stop 1/16" #348525, a Chain Rope Clip 1/8" #348300 (buy 3 each total) as in picture 3 can be substituted for the Ferrule.

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I used an Extra Extension Table leg set with an angle iron bolted to it (similar to Plated Steel Slotted Angle 3' x 1 1/2" #69814). Don't make me look up bolts. Get three of the smaller eye bolt. Eye Bolt 1/4" x 2" #22065 (third one for the foot pedal below) to use with the 1/8" Chain Swivel Pulley #348546 2 each. The eye on the eye bolt has to be opened up and attached to the pulley eye and then hammered or squeezed back together.

Note: An alternate method would be with a complete extension table and clamp the slotted angle to it with a Top Beam Clamp 1/4" x 20" #47469 3 each and screw the eye bolts into two of the beam clamps. Edit: Leave out the slotted angle and use 2 each Top Beam CLamp

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For the foot pedal I used a 2x4 16 inches long, a 1x4 16 inches long, a 2 1/2 inch Entry Door Hinge #308971, the cable is continuous from the quill handle eye bolt to the Plain Eye Bolt 1/6"-14x1 5/8"in the 2x4 (the one I had on hand was only 1 3/16" long with a 3/8" eyelet). The slotted angle is attached to the 2x4 with two Lag screws but large screws would also work. The Shopsmith leg sets on the slotted angle keeping the foot pedal in place.

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The cable from the foot pedal eye bolt to the 2x4 eyebolt has to be adjusted for the amount of quill handle travel. Actual quill travel is about an 1 1/8".

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I used a table insert with a 3/8" overhead router pin to follow an old Craftsman letter template. I also used a 3/8" carbide straight router bit in the Shopsmith router arbor. PTWFE in figures 22-36 & 22-37 shows how to aline the pins. http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/routing2/index.htm#duplicating

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The sign is lettered on both sides and I will shorten and rout the edges. I tried a V-groove bit also but the letters in the template were to wide.

[nuhobby]

Awesome, super resourceful thinking!

[algale]

Excellent job!

[redleg]

Thanks for the comments it was a fun project and I'll dress it up later by shortening the slotted angle iron, replace the top eyebolts and use the beam clamps. Sometimes the things you figure out along the way are better than the original plan. Another thing to consider if anyone makes this is to record the distance the headstock is from the top. It can be setup in just a couple minutes after the first time adjustments.

[STB]

The pictures show my solution for the need of a third hand. I used the extension table poles and flexible joints.

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[nuhobby]

This may show up in the Shopsmith catalog as the "Deputy 3rd Arm"...

[shipwright]

An interesting thought process redleg. It's funny how different people solve the same problem in completely different ways. I came up with this pin router idea a few years ago coming at it from the opposite side.
The cool thing is ..... they both work.

[redleg]

Stumpbuster that's another great approach to a third arm. Like the two man saw you push and I'll pull. It's nice to see the different ways we get to the same point of making the quill go up and down while still being able to use our hands for other required tasks.

[redleg]

An interesting thought process redleg. It's funny how different people solve the same problem in completely different ways. I came up with this pin router idea a few years ago coming at it from the opposite side.
The cool thing is ..... they both work.

I remember seeing your pin router set up in one of the searches I did some time ago and also the tea box and cabinet tree.

http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/23989

I think I'll be working on a tea box for my daughter when she completes her 20 years in the Coast Guard next year. I appreciate the inspiration.

[redleg]

Here's a picture showing all the parts needed.

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Here's the top using a complete 520 extension table and the Top Beam Clamps.

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And the parts list. Total $31.85 plus some scrap lumber and 2 screws or lags on 2/14/2014. This was in a table format.

Lowes Item Description Item # Price Quantity Sub Total
Top Beam Clamp 1/4" x 20 47469 1.95 2 $3.90
Chain Swivel Pulley 1/8" 348546 2.67 2 $5.34
Eye Bolt 3/8" x 4" 22216 0.81 1 $0.81
Eye Bolt 2/Pkg 1/4 x 2" 208142 1.78 1 $1.78
Cable Weldless Steel 1/8" 348161 0.26 9 $2.34
Turnbuckle 5/16" x 9" 22241 2.56 1 $2.56
Chain Ferrules and Stop 1/16" 348525 1.24 1 $1.24
Chain Rope Clip 1/8" 348300 0.88 3 $2.64 If you use the Ferrules and Stop buy only 2 each Chain Rope Clip
Plain Eye Bolts 1/6" - 14 x 1 5/8" 222243 0.88 1 $0.88
Plated Steel Slotted Angle 3' x 1 1/2" 69814 7.98 1 $7.98
Gatehouse Entry Door Hinge 2 1/2" 308971 2.38 1 $2.38 Most any hinge from 2" to 3 1/2" would work
Scrap Dimensional Lumber 2" x 4" x 16" $0.00
Scrap Dimensional Lumber 1" x 4" x 16" $0.00
Lag Bolt or Screw 1/4" x 1" $0.00