New casters clearance

[wrmnfzy]

Replaced old casters with new ones, drilled holes accurately per template but have slight annoyance. After lowering to floor the height adjustment lever touches the circular plate above the casters and require me to bend down (woe is me) and pull it past the circular plate and then I can use my foot to raise. Anyone else have/had this problem.

[JPG]

Circular plate?????*

Height adjustment lever = 'foot pedal'.


* cam?


We may need pix.

[wrmnfzy]

:confused. Here is a photo of what I was speaking of. If I remember to turn the caster before lowering it doesn't happen on the left front but still hangs up on right front.

[S Brian]

wrmnfzy - If you read down eight posts below yours, you will see my post on the same subject, written on Tuesday. I called SS to ask them to include instructions for moving the actuator inboard on the older machines. The lady I talked to then conferred with someone else and that person said only one leg of the actuator interferes with the castor by 1/8", so I should file or grind clearance on that leg. I explained that my interference measured 3/8" and since the material is only 1/2" thick, I did not think that was a good idea. At the end of our conversation, she said she would pass on my request, but I doubt there will be any addition to the instructions.

I moved my actuators inboard to copy the 2" spacing from the cams, which is the current SS design. Of course I had to take everything apart again!!!!!!!!!!

CAUTION - THE NEW HOLE IN THE SHAFT, MUST BE AT THE SAME ANGLE AS THE ORIGINAL HOLE.

[wrmnfzy]

wrmnfzy - If you read down eight posts below yours, you will see my post on the same subject, written on Tuesday. I called SS to ask them to include instructions for moving the actuator inboard on the older machines. The lady I talked to then conferred with someone else and that person said only one leg of the actuator interferes with the castor by 1/8", so I should file or grind clearance on that leg. I explained that my interference measured 3/8" and since the material is only 1/2" thick, I did not think that was a good idea. At the end of our conversation, she said she would pass on my request, but I doubt there will be any addition to the instructions.

I moved my actuators inboard to copy the 2" spacing from the cams, which is the current SS design. Of course I had to take everything apart again!!!!!!!!!!

CAUTION - THE NEW HOLE IN THE SHAFT, MUST BE AT THE SAME ANGLE AS THE ORIGINAL HOLE.

Could you post a photo of what you did?

[S Brian]

The parts are nice and shiny, because I took everything apart on the first try, to remove 34 year of sawdust and crud.

[wrmnfzy]

Thanks Brian, that was what I was going to try if there wasn't a SS fix or if I had done something wrong. I'll ck when I get back to my shop, is it secured with a set screw, screw or by what means?

[damagi]

Thanks Brian, that was what I was going to try if there wasn't a SS fix or if I had done something wrong. I'll ck when I get back to my shop, is it secured with a set screw, screw or by what means?

its a roll pin. If you carefully remove the roll pin, you can use the foot pedal as a guide for your drill. just be careful because the foot pedal is much softer than the bar itself.

[reible]

Might want to check some of this post out:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=10221

At the time I did mine this was clear that shopsmith was trying to stick their heads in the sand about all the problems.

At least I guess they now have the template problems behind them???

Anyway I like how I did mine and while I lost some faith in shopsmith I'm on to other things and don't plan to upgrade the casters on my other machines.

Ed