Bandsaw - Tilt Lock Problem - Post #2

S Brian · Post by **S Brian** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 2:04 pm

Quote from original post:

I cannot tighten the table tilt lock on my bandsaw. The 3/8" Table Clamp Bolt starts rotating before the tilt lock tightens. Upon taking everything apart, I see two split bushings that are pressed into the housing, which the table clamp bolts go through. Both bolts have small "wings" under the head, which fit into notches in the split bushings. I assume the "wings" are to keep the bolt from turning. When looking at the exploded view and the parts list, I do not see any part number for the split bushings. My split bushing is turning when I try to tighten the tilt lock. I have noted the position of the notches and I know it is rotating.

Below are the parts I received today from SS.

My bandsaw was built in 1985 with the cast iron table and the parts I was told that I needed were changed when the aluminum table was introduced. The new bushings are required because the plastic trunnion supports have projections on the back side that fit into the bushings. The associated washers, nuts and trunnions are the same for both designs.

What SS forgot is that the old bushings are .564 dia. x 2.37 long and the new bushings are .689 dia. x 1.93 long. So now my options are trying to glue the original bushing, to stop the rotation or drilling/reaming the holes in the housing to accept the new bushings, which according to SS are a slip fit not press fit.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 3:16 pm

Brian
Just went into the shop and took a gander at my bandsaw. (aluminum table)
I didn't go far enough to see any bushig that you describe but if the trunnion lock bolt (the gold colored one is turning then you may be overtightening. Under my lock handle there is a 3/8 flat washer and a spring washer and another flat washer. You appear to have the correct trunnion guides. The hex shaped recess in the guides appears to be the only thing to stop the bolt from turning unless as I said earlier you are over tightening. It appears that the spacers are only to prevent someone from tightening the trunnions enough to break the casting. Try holdong the hex head of the bolt into the hex socket while tensioning the tilt lock handle. If your original spacers are too short can you stack some washers up to make the difference?
Let me know and I will see if I can further disassemble mine to take a look.
Bill V

S Brian · Post by **S Brian** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 4:08 pm

Bill - The older cast iron table design does not use the plastic trunnion supports, but it has the same washers under the lock handle. The bolt for the lock handle, acts like a carriage bolt, but instead of a square section under the head, there are two little wings that fit into slots in the pressed in bushing. My bushing was no longer tight enough to stop the bolt from rotating. That is why I called SS to see if I could use the newer design parts.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 4:52 pm

Brian
I just noticed that you have the Delta 46-460 lathe. Is it the type 1 or 2. We have a turning group here in the Leesburg area and there 5 of those lathes and 3 of them have already had the on/off switch fail. They are all type 2. Is yours surviving OK?
One member was waiting for 4 weeks and then Delta sent the wrong switch to the repair faciility. That resulted in some additional wait time.
I can guide you through a work around if you like.
Bill V

S Brian · Post by **S Brian** » Sun Mar 09, 2014 9:56 am

wa2crk - PM sent

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Mar 09, 2014 2:28 pm

S Brian wrote:Quote from original post:

I cannot tighten the table tilt lock on my bandsaw. The 3/8" Table Clamp Bolt starts rotating before the tilt lock tightens. Upon taking everything apart, I see two split bushings that are pressed into the housing, which the table clamp bolts go through. Both bolts have small "wings" under the head, which fit into notches in the split bushings. I assume the "wings" are to keep the bolt from turning. When looking at the exploded view and the parts list, I do not see any part number for the split bushings. My split bushing is turning when I try to tighten the tilt lock. I have noted the position of the notches and I know it is rotating.

Below are the parts I received today from SS.

My bandsaw was built in 1985 with the cast iron table and the parts I was told that I needed were changed when the aluminum table was introduced. The new bushings are required because the plastic trunnion supports have projections on the back side that fit into the bushings. The associated washers, nuts and trunnions are the same for both designs.

What SS forgot is that the old bushings are .564 dia. x 2.37 long and the new bushings are .689 dia. x 1.93 long. So now my options are trying to glue the original bushing, to stop the rotation or drilling/reaming the holes in the housing to accept the new bushings, which according to SS are a slip fit not press fit.

The new design does not depend upon the bushings to prevent rotation of the hex head screw. The plastic part does that with the hex shaped 'hole'.

I have no explanation for the bushing od difference.

Here are a couple of pix which may help.

[ATTACH]24288[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]24289[/ATTACH]

S Brian · Post by **S Brian** » Sun Mar 09, 2014 6:43 pm

I understand that the plastic trunnion support is what prevents the bolt from turning, which you all agree with, but the plastic trunnion was introduced when SS changed from a cast iron table to the aluminum table. Behind the plastic parts and the steel trunnions are the two bushings. And as I stated when I started this post, the plastic pieces fit into the bushings. The problem is the new bushings have a larger O.D. and will not fit into my housing, which is for a cast iron table and the plastic pieces will not fit into the smaller bushings that are in my housing.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 1:37 am

S Brian wrote:I understand that the plastic trunnion support is what prevents the bolt from turning, which you all agree with, but the plastic trunnion was introduced when SS changed from a cast iron table to the aluminum table. Behind the plastic parts and the steel trunnions are the two bushings. And as I stated when I started this post, the plastic pieces fit into the bushings. The problem is the new bushings have a larger O.D. and will not fit into my housing, which is for a cast iron table and the plastic pieces will not fit into the smaller bushings that are in my housing.

I think another call to CS is appropriate.

Since 'upgrading' from a CI table to the current is available, there has to be a set of parts(bushings) that will work.

S Brian · Post by **S Brian** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 3:36 pm

It is my understanding, that when updating to the new aluminum table, all that is replaced is the table. There is no change to the tilt mechanism or the bolts which lock the table angle or any other parts.

I have called CS, talked to Jan again and she has the tech people looking into a fix for me. I have access to a Bridgeport milling machine and if all that is required, is to enlarge the holes in the housing, we will do that in order to use the new bushings.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 3:43 pm

S Brian wrote:It is my understanding, that when updating to the new aluminum table, all that is replaced is the table. There is no change to the tilt mechanism or the bolts which lock the table angle or any other parts.

I have called CS, talked to Jan again and she has the tech people looking into a fix for me. I have access to a Bridgeport milling machine and if all that is required, is to enlarge the holes in the housing, we will do that in order to use the new bushings.

Well if you have a bridgeport then I assume you can competently judge if there is sufficient casting thickness to ream the bores.

However I would wait until CS falls short.

How about grinding down the bushings?;)