Greenie Rebuild - 3rd/4th gen

[pds0006]

One bench tube down, one to go. The tube on the left was after electrolysis and a scotchbrite pad to clean off residual funk. The spot of pitting in the picture is just about the only pitting I've found so far (knock wood).
[attach]24231[/attach]

Jonathan running some 150 grit on the second tube. He really enjoyed being able to put his hands on something spinning like that; touching something I'd normally tell him to keep away from for safety. For the first tube the setup was actually reversed, with the drill anchored on my tablesaw and the guide rollers on my work table. The results were pretty bouncy and I reversed it to try and calm the tube down. Let me tell you, 300 pounds of table really calms things down so anchor it and stack whatever you need to keep it smooth. I'd also recommend getting larger wheels, preferably urethane and 3-4", because the plastic 2" ones I had have a seam on them and that translated to the tubes. You can sand them some but if you know ahead of time you can avoid it.
[attach]24232[/attach]

Two finished tubes inside and out. The way tubes, one on the left, were not rusted at all on the outside. There are some blemishes and black marks but the thing that is odd to me is that the grain (?) on these tubes appears different than what I got on the bench tubes. I'm not sure if that is a trick of my eyes but I'm trying to decide what to sand these to. Bench tubes went to 400 and while that texture doesn't seem as smooth as the way tubes currently are I think it would be great. Maybe someone will have some insight one way or another.
[attach]24233[/attach]

Here's the badge from the back of my headstock. No access hole but I'm fairly certain that badge was built to receive a spring or whatever it's called between those two vertical lines. I haven't seen a close up picture or handled one but assuming that is correct I should be able to carefully drill out between the holes for the prongs and once I find a spring I should be able to simply mount that and install it. Any sources for a spring? I didn't see one on Shopsmith with a quick search.
[attach]24234[/attach]

[JPG]

The bench and way tubes are indeed different steels. I believe that is one reason the bench tubes were originally painted.

The logo/medallion did not originally have a retaining spring between those two ridges, and the posts were inserted in the two holes in the casting, and a retaining clip slipped over the posts from the interior.

Those ridges are however a precurser to the later design. The posts were made round and a spring was indeed swagged between them. That design held forth for almost a half century.

So if you intend to cut an access hole, that version is often found on e-bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-Heads ... 4d19b0c1d6

[pds0006]

So is there a separate process that people have gone through for the wag tubes? My searches say no so I was just expecting to take them to 400 grit as well.

Is it possible to purchase just the clip and JBWeld it to my medallion? Or to manufacture a clip on my own? Maybe more trouble than it's worth but both that medallion and original speed control handle are still usable so I'm trying to keep both in service and unaltered as much as possible. As you mentioned above the clip design lasted for nearly 50 years so it's certainly functional.

Segueing to the speed control handle is the post on it supposed to rotate? Neither my original nor a replacement 10 years ago did but I got one with steel teeth off EBay and that one did. The screw holding the bolt is stripped out on both handles and I can't tell if that is by design or something I can fix while making it rotate.

Got my new motor from Bill (Thanks!) and other parts are en route so I'm about set on materials. Then it will be down to the toughest part of the project: finding time to do it all.

[JPG]

So is there a separate process that people have gone through for the wag tubes? My searches say no so I was just expecting to take them to 400 grit as well.

Is it possible to purchase just the clip and JBWeld it to my medallion? Or to manufacture a clip on my own? Maybe more trouble than it's worth but both that medallion and original speed control handle are still usable so I'm trying to keep both in service and unaltered as much as possible. As you mentioned above the clip design lasted for nearly 50 years so it's certainly functional.

Segueing to the speed control handle is the post on it supposed to rotate? Neither my original nor a replacement 10 years ago did but I got one with steel teeth off EBay and that one did. The screw holding the bolt is stripped out on both handles and I can't tell if that is by design or something I can fix while making it rotate.

Got my new motor from Bill (Thanks!) and other parts are en route so I'm about set on materials. Then it will be down to the toughest part of the project: finding time to do it all.

Bench/way, same procedure except removal of 'surviving' paint on bench tubes. Electrolysis will remove the paint.

Some turn, some do not. I do not think that is a 'bolt'. I think that it is 'staked'.

[pds0006]

No pics of the way tubes yet but they came out just fine. I also worked one of the caster rods through the sanding process and applied some Boeshield, that works pretty good. On a lark I reassembled the rod into the caster casting and was horrified to find there was significant wiggle; I'd altered the thickness enough to impact tolerances! I went through grits quickly on this small piece so does that mean I radically altered the way/bench tubes?

[JPG]

[quote="pds0006"]No pics of the way tubes yet but they came out just fine. I also worked one of the caster rods through the sanding process and applied some Boeshield, that works pretty good. On a lark I reassembled the rod into the caster casting and was horrified to find there was significant wiggle]

Not likely. Measure them. Vernier caliper(or digital) or micrometer.

Even if substantial, it will not be detrimental. The caster 'rod' is a sloppy fit to begin with.

[pds0006]

Haven't had a lot of time since my last post so not a great deal of progress. But something of a milestone as I've put on the primer for the motor pan and the belt cover.

[ATTACH]24430[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]24431[/ATTACH]

The headstock is pending mounting of nuts for the screws and drilling of an access hole. That brings me to today's issue.

[ATTACH]24432[/ATTACH]

On the left is the original badge for my SS and the replacement I bought on the right. I have a 3" bi-metal hole saw and tried it on a piece of 1/4" plywood (visible upper right) to see what the fit was like. The badge went on fine but while trying to pry it off the spring separated as you can see. Not sure if the swaging was weak, the hole was too small, or both. If the swaging is weak I assume some JB Weld would fix it but I can't tell if there's something to do to the swaging to prevent this.

[JPG]

Haven't had a lot of time since my last post so not a great deal of progress. But something of a milestone as I've put on the primer for the motor pan and the belt cover.

[ATTACH]24430[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]24431[/ATTACH]

The headstock is pending mounting of nuts for the screws and drilling of an access hole. That brings me to today's issue.

[ATTACH]24432[/ATTACH]

On the left is the original badge for my SS and the replacement I bought on the right. I have a 3" bi-metal hole saw and tried it on a piece of 1/4" plywood (visible upper right) to see what the fit was like. The badge went on fine but while trying to pry it off the spring separated as you can see. Not sure if the swaging was weak, the hole was too small, or both. If the swaging is weak I assume some JB Weld would fix it but I can't tell if there's something to do to the swaging to prevent this.

It looks like someone else has already tried to 'glue' it back on.

The spring is designed to grasp the thin headstock casting. I presume the 1/4" plywood was over stressing the spring(and swage).

[idcook]

Been at the office for a couple of weeks. So, not much time to devote to the general run of forum conversation.

However, lolling through eBay I came upon this and recalled that you were looking for period accurate, nubby levers for your restoration project.

Maybe ya need it and maybe ya don’t, but here ’tis —

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quill-Feed-Leve ... 1c3e15af2b

[JPG]

Decent condition, and an excellent source. Goferit!!!!