Great thread, Ed!
Would you please elaborate a bit on final assembly procedure- do you put the ferrule on first? Just press-fit or epoxy? Do you epoxy the shaft into the handle? Do you use a vise and press the shaft into the handle, beat it in with a hammer, or what?
Thanks,
Gary
Today in the shop (home made lathe tool(s)
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Since this was a first time for me I can only tell you how I did it, right or wrong or just different I don't know.
The ferrule is a commercial product but comes with no instructions. I did the fit so it had to be forced on, and it has a little holder thing that cuts a notch as it goes on. I think it is there to stay but if it were to come loose I still have the option of epoxy. On another tool I put together the ferrule was a piece of copper tubing, that one I glued on and it is now a couple of years old and working fine. I did this as the final assemble after the rod was installed. Put the rod through a hole and the ferrule against the wood then tapped with a rubber hammer on the end of the handle and on it went.
After turning the handle I checked the depth of the hole again. It was about a 1/4" less due to the material that was removed while turning it. I marked that depth on the shaft so I knew how deep it should be.
I wasn't to sure how tight things were going to get with that much shaft to have to get in the handle. I chucked the sharp tip in to the drill press chuck and had it set in lathe position and figured if things went bad I could use the quill to force it in. I didn't want to create any hydrological pressure by having glue (epoxy) near the end of the shaft. Just a light coating more near the top and not much at that as I didn't want a mess.
As it turned out the handle twisted on pretty well and it made it all the way into the depth mark, by hand. I didn't scratch up the metal which might have been a mistake but the fit was pretty tight so it will not be falling out any time soon.
Ed
The ferrule is a commercial product but comes with no instructions. I did the fit so it had to be forced on, and it has a little holder thing that cuts a notch as it goes on. I think it is there to stay but if it were to come loose I still have the option of epoxy. On another tool I put together the ferrule was a piece of copper tubing, that one I glued on and it is now a couple of years old and working fine. I did this as the final assemble after the rod was installed. Put the rod through a hole and the ferrule against the wood then tapped with a rubber hammer on the end of the handle and on it went.
After turning the handle I checked the depth of the hole again. It was about a 1/4" less due to the material that was removed while turning it. I marked that depth on the shaft so I knew how deep it should be.
I wasn't to sure how tight things were going to get with that much shaft to have to get in the handle. I chucked the sharp tip in to the drill press chuck and had it set in lathe position and figured if things went bad I could use the quill to force it in. I didn't want to create any hydrological pressure by having glue (epoxy) near the end of the shaft. Just a light coating more near the top and not much at that as I didn't want a mess.
As it turned out the handle twisted on pretty well and it made it all the way into the depth mark, by hand. I didn't scratch up the metal which might have been a mistake but the fit was pretty tight so it will not be falling out any time soon.
Ed
greitz wrote:Great thread, Ed!
Would you please elaborate a bit on final assembly procedure- do you put the ferrule on first? Just press-fit or epoxy? Do you epoxy the shaft into the handle? Do you use a vise and press the shaft into the handle, beat it in with a hammer, or what?
Thanks,
Gary
Keep in mind these steb like centers may or may not fit a particular chuck. In this case the pair I have do fit the Nova G3 as pictured.
I got mine from PSI but if I were to do it all over I'd look for some of better quality. It seems I always find what ever I get from PSI is lacking so I have stopped tool orders from them.
I need to replace one of mine and I plan to go with one like this:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/- ... ive-Center
BTW I've found more use for the larger size rather then the smaller.....
Ed
I got mine from PSI but if I were to do it all over I'd look for some of better quality. It seems I always find what ever I get from PSI is lacking so I have stopped tool orders from them.
I need to replace one of mine and I plan to go with one like this:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/5/- ... ive-Center
BTW I've found more use for the larger size rather then the smaller.....
Ed
drl wrote:Ed,
Nice job on both the tools and handles. Curious as to where you got the steb drive center which appears to fit nicely in your One-way chuck?
Dwight
Guess who wasn't paying enough attention to what he was doing today. I'm guessing that would cover a lot of us but in this case it was me.
Here is a picture where it shows how I put the ferrule on. I have a scrap of plywood that I drilled a 1/4" hole in. I put the ferrule on the lathe tool and then the blade goes in the hole. By tapping on the wood handle the ferrule goes on, or at least it should.
[ATTACH]24619[/ATTACH]
Today I tapped it on, and yes it is a tight fit, only to notice that the ferrule is not going all the way on.
This next picture shows what happened. The less then 1/16" space between the handle and the ferule seating is shown by the "A". Why did this happen? Well look at "B", the ferrule is flat with the wood and it is not going to go any anywhere any more.
[ATTACH]24620[/ATTACH]
Searched the shop for something the same size of the ferrule and found nothing......... so I'm going to have to order another ferrule and tape the two of them together so I can get that last bit of movement that I need.
Of course if I had checked after taking the handle off the lathe I would have seen that and cut just a bit more off. Well that didn't happen today.
Just something to remember to check as you finish up a project.....
Ed
Here is a picture where it shows how I put the ferrule on. I have a scrap of plywood that I drilled a 1/4" hole in. I put the ferrule on the lathe tool and then the blade goes in the hole. By tapping on the wood handle the ferrule goes on, or at least it should.
[ATTACH]24619[/ATTACH]
Today I tapped it on, and yes it is a tight fit, only to notice that the ferrule is not going all the way on.
This next picture shows what happened. The less then 1/16" space between the handle and the ferule seating is shown by the "A". Why did this happen? Well look at "B", the ferrule is flat with the wood and it is not going to go any anywhere any more.
[ATTACH]24620[/ATTACH]
Searched the shop for something the same size of the ferrule and found nothing......... so I'm going to have to order another ferrule and tape the two of them together so I can get that last bit of movement that I need.
Of course if I had checked after taking the handle off the lathe I would have seen that and cut just a bit more off. Well that didn't happen today.
Just something to remember to check as you finish up a project.....
Ed
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Ed
What material is the ferrule made of. If it's brass, you could have trimmed it while it was on the lathe.
What material is the ferrule made of. If it's brass, you could have trimmed it while it was on the lathe.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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JPG
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It is already too short for the handle!beeg wrote:Ed
What material is the ferrule made of. If it's brass, you could have trimmed it while it was on the lathe.
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BuckeyeDennis
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I'm more accustomed to dealing with taper-lock bushings (tapered shaft clamps, really) in all-metal assemblies. Wood is much more compressible, so take this with a grain of salt. But the linear travel of a taper bushing should be stopped by the radial force of the clamping action upon the taper, and nothing else. If you bottom out on anything else, you have not achieved the full clamping force.
Ergo, I agree that you do not want to be stopped by your assembly jig when the ferrule becomes flush with the end of the handle. But if you want maximum clamping force, you don't want to bottom out against the shoulder of the handle either. Plus, you may need some extra room to tighten the ferrule in the future, should the wood shrink a bit. That's my theory, anyway.
Ergo, I agree that you do not want to be stopped by your assembly jig when the ferrule becomes flush with the end of the handle. But if you want maximum clamping force, you don't want to bottom out against the shoulder of the handle either. Plus, you may need some extra room to tighten the ferrule in the future, should the wood shrink a bit. That's my theory, anyway.
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JPG
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I doubt the handle is tapered!:rolleyes:BuckeyeDennis wrote:I'm more accustomed to dealing with taper-lock bushings (tapered shaft clamps, really) in all-metal assemblies. Wood is much more compressible, so take this with a grain of salt. But the linear travel of a taper bushing should be stopped by the radial force of the clamping action upon the taper, and nothing else. If you bottom out on anything else, you have not achieved the full clamping force.
Ergo, I agree that you do not want to be stopped by your assembly jig when the ferrule becomes flush with the end of the handle. But if you want maximum clamping force, you don't want to bottom out against the shoulder of the handle either. Plus, you may need some extra room to tighten the ferrule in the future, should the wood shrink a bit. That's my theory, anyway.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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BuckeyeDennis
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