Restoring aluminum parts questions...

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:51 am

I have a very strong aversion to the feeling of oxidized aluminum. Like 80% as strong as my aversion to fingernails on chalkboard. I thought everyone had that toward certain textures but no, according to my wife I'm broken and strange. Oh well. It is real, though. (Certain types of fabric do it too). So, while I love my new shopsmiths I really want to find a way to get the oxidation off the aluminum so I don't have to wear gloves. So fat haven't had much luck.

I've searched and found some info but I'm still confused about how to safely and effectively clean up the various aluminum parts, especially the tables since I assume I should really avoid removing non oxidized metal on them: no sanding or strong acids.

I tried aluminum jelly (not naval jelly), 3 x 5 minute applications, with next to no results. I also tried lemon juice as someone said on another forum... Nothing.
The most promising are alumiprep and alodine, suggested on aircraft forums, but the cost something like $20-30 each plus another $25 each for haz.material shipping, and a true brass wire wheel (not brass plated steel as almost all seem to be), but they cost $30 or so for larger ones. I'll spend that if there isn't a better way. I'm just worried one wheel won't be enough to clean up the two ss and associated parts and accessories.

What have you used? What works? What to avoid? Can I just use aluminum wheel cleaner/polishing? I am after highly usable rather than a back to new level restore.

Thank you!
Fitzhugh

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:37 am

Try the Nyalox nylon abrasive brushes - they come in three grits (grey is the most coarse, 80 grit, and then orange is 120 grit and the blue is the finest at 240 grit):

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Nyalox

They come in various shapes and mounting types, including for mounting on a drill, a grinder etc. I have found they work great on aluminum parts for my SS - they get in the grooves well, they take off the oxidation without damaging the aluminum, and they last pretty well - they have abrasive imbedded into the nylon bristles, so eventually they wear down and even though they look the same, they will eventually lose effectiveness, so buy a few of them. I personally use the grey for the first cut, then switch to the orange, and from there I don't bother with the blue but rather switch over to a buffing wheel and polishing compound. If you want to go for a really polished finish, the blue before the buffing would probably help with that. Once finished, I clean them off with a tack cloth to remove dust and then a coat of Johnsons Paste Wax or Minwax and a good buffing will not only slow down future oxidation but will help wood slide nicely on your table.

db5 · Post by **db5** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:53 pm

[ATTACH]24722[/ATTACH]

Got these for $1 each at Dollartree. Added a carriage bolt and nut and viola! Much cheaper and works as well. Pick up a can of Kleen King Aluminum Brightener (probably about $5 at ACE or a grocery store.) I still have half a container left from 1980. Price tag reads 50 cents.

rlkeeney · Post by **rlkeeney** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:16 am

Have you tried Nevr-Dull?

I've used this for years on brass and aluminum.

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 9:19 am

Well, I tried the dollar store, no luck on any brush I could convert or cleaning agents. I did find x-large thick long gloves... Good timing there as I ripped my last pair and my hands get fried cleaning this stuff.
I'll pick up some nevrdull and brushes to try later this morning. I know the cheap round b brush won't have the abrasives embedded but I'll try them anyhow using abrasive polish as suggested.
On a positive note, the steel and cast iron parts have come out looking great. No scary deep rust to worry about after all.
Thanks for the help.

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 9:19 am

Well, I tried the dollar store, no luck on any brush I could convert or cleaning agents. I did find x-large thick long gloves... Good timing there as I ripped my last pair and my hands get fried cleaning this stuff.
I'll pick up some nevrdull and brushes to try later this morning. I know the cheap round b brush won't have the abrasives embedded but I'll try them anyhow using abrasive polish as suggested.
On a positive note, the steel and cast iron parts have come out looking great. No scary deep rust to worry about after all.
Thanks for the help.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 9:58 am

To polish aluminum on my old Triumph motor cycle, I use a product called "Semi Chrome", it comes in a tube and is the consistency of tooth paste.
http://simichrome.premiumstore.com/?cid=44379&chid=1600

lightnin · Post by **lightnin** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 12:15 pm

I use a couple of buffing wheels on the drillpress for most of that work with aggressive and fine compounds.
For some really nasty corrosion I may use a fine grit flap wheel.
I'm an engineer on the railroad that means I often sit for hours waiting for a signal to go.
It's against the law and rules to play with my phone or electronic devices. I can't read or sleep.
Nobody seems to care if I'm sharpening or polishing something or tying fishing flys.
So with hours of time to wast I love to restore the small parts to things or sketch out ideas.
I always carry something to fiddle with in my grip that's a railroad term for bag, box, or often
backpack to carry the library of books your required to carry and your lunch and whatever.
I carry a range of diamond and water stones, sandpaper, emery cloth, leather strop, and never dull.
Lots of elbow grease is gives the best results for most things if you have time to kill like I often do that's great.
If not when I'm on my own time I'll use the drillpress and buffing wheels for most of the polishing.

After I get aluminium polished the way I like I often spray an automotive cleat coat on it.
It don't shine quite as good then but it don't oxidize.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 1:28 pm

Here is the answer to your aluminum question. mickyd gave us a great service. Wish he was still around!!!!

First here's post #42 of the "How to guide of polishing aluminum". Check out all of the photos in this post to see if that's what you want. http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... stcount=42

If you like those results (and who wouldn't) then here's a link to the entire post. http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... g+aluminum

There's another thread that may give you some help.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 6:03 pm

Charlese,
great threads and nice work in them. Question, I am assuming with cleaning and polishing you loose some of the red in the numbers and incriments, I am restoring a Greenie, and a few other pices at the moment, the other ones where there is numerical #s and fractional lines are white with a black background. How do you restore the white and in the case of the SS red?