fitzhugh wrote:OK, I'm getting good results for the most part using flitz and nevrdull - kinda randomly switching based on the part.
One thing I'm not clear on: I polish and get the black stuff all over the cloth. It's also in the polish on the metal and very hard to get all off the metal when buffing. I've tried wiping with clean polish on clean cloth but it doesn't seem to help much. I'm missing something basic it seems.
If you are polishing by hand try using paper towels to buff it off ...That's what Flitz recommends on their site when polishing aluminum..They recommend the extra abrasiveness if the paper towel on the aluminum..
Also Simicrome warns that it is hazardous and Flitz brags that is not..I also used Simicrome for years ..The only place that I ever see it now is motorcycle shops..So I tried Flitz on the Shopsmith...I would say the results are equal..As I remember it ...Simicrome said in the instructions that is you aren't getting that black stuff stop trying..It isn't working...
Thanks. I thought the black stuff was a good sign, that it was oxidation or something. I just wasn't sure about getting it all out. Now, I just tried flitz on the painted parts and it really helped restore the shine. The paint is all chipped up so I wasn't worried about making it worse, especially after I used a degreaser and it left all the paint very dull.
Looks like I'll need to repaint since the leg that is in the electrolysis bath is now a kinda birds egg blue or something - nothing like the rest. At least it won't be rusty anymore!
fitzhugh wrote:Thanks. I thought the black stuff was a good sign, that it was oxidation or something. I just wasn't sure about getting it all out. Now, I just tried flitz on the painted parts and it really helped restore the shine. The paint is all chipped up so I wasn't worried about making it worse, especially after I used a degreaser and it left all the paint very dull.
Looks like I'll need to repaint since the leg that is in the electrolysis bath is now a kinda birds egg blue or something - nothing like the rest. At least it won't be rusty anymore!
Electrolysis will remove the paint! I use it for that often even when there is no rust! Steel parts only!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
fitzhugh wrote:Thanks. I thought the black stuff was a good sign, that it was oxidation or something. I just wasn't sure about getting it all out. Now, I just tried flitz on the painted parts and it really helped restore the shine. The paint is all chipped up so I wasn't worried about making it worse, especially after I used a degreaser and it left all the paint very dull.
Looks like I'll need to repaint since the leg that is in the electrolysis bath is now a kinda birds egg blue or something - nothing like the rest. At least it won't be rusty anymore!
I was going to refer you to a great video on the Flitz site http://www.flitz.com/ but I just went there and the video is gone ...still lots of information ...but no trace of that video?...
I picked up a polishing wheel but so far have been doing this all by hand using scraps from an old t-shirt and buffing with paper towels.
The video itself may not be there but looks like a lot of good info is, and this is the kind of thing a video would really help with so I'll also search online. Most likely someone has posted one.
I was under the impression electrolysis would only remove paint that was over corrosion. Wrong, clearly.
I planned to do a quick cleanup and lube but am enjoying taking it completely apart and doing the best I can on out instead. I have no paint experience and was not going to tackle that... In glad I have to now. The paint is in bad sharp on the greenie, OK on the 80s gray machine but I don't like the color much. I guess I need to learn to paint.
I tried repainting a vespa back in the 80s but did a rotten job. I've since learned how to be teachable and ask the experts first.
Thanks for the help. I'll go read up on this.
Fitzhugh
beeg wrote:Tape off near the letters. Then spray paint it and remove with a damp solvent rag to remove it off the surface.
I woodn' let it dry for to long, just because it wood come off easier. More importantly I think the rag ya use should be balled up tightly and the outside surface should be smooth so it just skims over the surface. Post a pic of how it goes.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
beeg wrote:I woodn' let it dry for to long, just because it wood come off easier. More importantly I think the rag ya use should be balled up tightly and the outside surface should be smooth so it just skims over the surface. Post a pic of how it goes.
And not too much solvent in that rag or it will squeeze out into the numbers and grooves and probably dilute/weaken the paint that is left behind. I agree that balled up rag with a smooth surface should be used - light, quick strokes over the area after the paint has just barely set up.
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
fitzhugh wrote:I picked up a polishing wheel but so far have been doing this all by hand using scraps from an old t-shirt and buffing with paper towels.
The video itself may not be there but looks like a lot of good info is, and this is the kind of thing a video would really help with so I'll also search online. Most likely someone has posted one.
I was under the impression electrolysis would only remove paint that was over corrosion. Wrong, clearly.
I planned to do a quick cleanup and lube but am enjoying taking it completely apart and doing the best I can on out instead. I have no paint experience and was not going to tackle that... In glad I have to now. The paint is in bad sharp on the greenie, OK on the 80s gray machine but I don't like the color much. I guess I need to learn to paint.
I tried repainting a vespa back in the 80s but did a rotten job. I've since learned how to be teachable and ask the experts first.
Thanks for the help. I'll go read up on this.
Fitzhugh
The demo had the guy using their buffing ball ..It's made of microfiber rather than foam...and they promise it won't tear apart...they polished lots of automotive stuff in just a minuet or two....They also talked about boats and firearms too...Brownell's recommends it for that application too..
I just polish by hand...the way I started all of those years ago...all it takes is a little patience...Even after all of these years I still git a little kick out of seeing how it looks like you just are never going get anywhere and then it cleans up ...and them it soothes out the rough spots....Doesn't take a lot of thought...
