Today in the shop (bandsaw tip)
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Today in the shop (bandsaw tip)
I was getting some stock cut for a turning project and used an old trick I learned years ago. It is really quite simple and a lot of you might already use it.
For those who might want to learn it take a look below.
In my case I was going to cut this piece of ash in half. Using a ruler and pencil I simply make a small mark.
[ATTACH]24911[/ATTACH]
Using this mark as a guide you next touch the wood to the running blade at that mark like you were going to make the cut.
[ATTACH]24912[/ATTACH]
Now when you rotate the stock towards you, wallah you have a line to follow! How cool is that?
[ATTACH]24913[/ATTACH]
That's it.
Ed
For those who might want to learn it take a look below.
In my case I was going to cut this piece of ash in half. Using a ruler and pencil I simply make a small mark.
[ATTACH]24911[/ATTACH]
Using this mark as a guide you next touch the wood to the running blade at that mark like you were going to make the cut.
[ATTACH]24912[/ATTACH]
Now when you rotate the stock towards you, wallah you have a line to follow! How cool is that?
[ATTACH]24913[/ATTACH]
That's it.
Ed
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- "Wild Bad Bob"
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I am sorry, I dont get it? If you rotate away from you with the pencil at the top then it will mark the wood, or now that I think about it, rotate towards you marks the back side, maybe all the same. I just kept a 6" machinist square in my apron pocket.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
- ChrisNeilan
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- JPG
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Yep!terryd wrote:ok, I get it now. Took me a minute to realize that the piece of stock is a 2"x2" (or something like that) and not a flat board, say 3/4"X 3". The cut line formed by touching the blade is along one entire 2" side that when rotated gives you a line to guide the through cut. Right?
The point of this 'simplification' is that all it requires is a small pencil mark. No line, no square, just a pencil(and measuring device if needed). KISS!!!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Hi,
Sorry if you missed the point, or my explanation of the tip.
Wood size is pretty much not relevant so long as you have an edge to stand it on and the wood still fits the bandsaw. You could do a 1 x 6, 2 x 4, 6 x 6 or just about anything between.
The small line you draw could be about anywhere on the board, hey even near an end for squaring up the end. Where ever the line is you have to be able to see it and align it to the blade before making the kerf. The point being the kerf becomes the line you follow.
Perhaps a few minutes out in the shop with a piece of wood and the bandsaw will help you see the light.
If you are still confused let me know and I take more pictures and add more words until it is clear.
This is one of those tips you can use to impress your shop buddies. Almost painfully simple but still so cool.
Ed
Sorry if you missed the point, or my explanation of the tip.
Wood size is pretty much not relevant so long as you have an edge to stand it on and the wood still fits the bandsaw. You could do a 1 x 6, 2 x 4, 6 x 6 or just about anything between.
The small line you draw could be about anywhere on the board, hey even near an end for squaring up the end. Where ever the line is you have to be able to see it and align it to the blade before making the kerf. The point being the kerf becomes the line you follow.
Perhaps a few minutes out in the shop with a piece of wood and the bandsaw will help you see the light.
If you are still confused let me know and I take more pictures and add more words until it is clear.
This is one of those tips you can use to impress your shop buddies. Almost painfully simple but still so cool.
Ed
- ChrisNeilan
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- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 5:30 pm
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- "Wild Bad Bob"
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- Location: Germantown, Wi
Me 3!!!!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.