One of the lady turners at the local club demonstrated pendant turning using a method similar to what Farley described. She took two jaws off her four jaw chuck, then stuck the pendant blank to a rectangular piece of wood with double sided tape. She shaped the pendant, then reset the rectangular block and turned an off center hole in the pendant, resulting in something like this. She said that she had the indexed chuck for off center turning, but found this method easier.
Mike
Today in the shop (turning problem)
Moderator: admin
When this issue came up I went ahead and ordered an adapter from Packard ($16.90 to my door).
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchan ... gory_Code=
I did this because I have two other adapters which take the shopsmith to 1-8tpi size and their adapter gets me where I want to go in that manor.
The one I ordered is really a PSI model which I guess you can order from them.
The adapter arrived today so I went out to see what I could see. I'm often not so happy with PSI items so I was thinking this could be a bust but was pleasantly surprised by the results. Yes the part is made off shore somewhere and the machining and feel reek of that but it is the function that I was most interested in. I paired the PSI adapter and gave it a test run, well first I re-prepared the wood to get everything back round and square. Then rotated the fixture 180 degrees, it was far better then when doing so with my make shift bolt, and in fact useable.
Next I paired the parts with my other 1-8 adapter from Best Wood Tools. The Best Wood Tools one is made in the USA, very nice workmanship and finish and has the set-screw at the "shopsmith" angle. Yes it costs a lot more but it is a much better choice if you can afford it. Testing this time was about as perfect as I could imagine it! A big thumbs up for this set up, but it might not be the most cost effective with the Best Wood Tools adapter depending on how you value things.
Here are a couple of pictures that might help you see what I've been writing about.
This is the adapter that allows 1"x8tpi lathe chucks, face plates and the like to mount on the shopsmith.
[ATTACH]25100[/ATTACH]
The adapter I purchased from Packard then attaches to the 1"x8tpi part and gives you a 3/8" x 16 tpi end for doing bottle stoppers and pendants or attaching the indexing and off set adapter from Ruth.
[ATTACH]25101[/ATTACH]
Put it all together and you have this.
[ATTACH]25102[/ATTACH]
Here is a side by side of the two 1" x 8 tpi adapters, note the Best Wood Tool one is the shorter unmounted one.
[ATTACH]25103[/ATTACH]
At this point it is pretty safe to say the problem was with the bolt adapter I made. While it works for turning bottle stoppers or things that are not indexed it is clearly lacking for the purpose I tried to use it for.
Keep in mind I have also ordered the new mandrel from Ruth, should have that may be tomorrow. I'll keep posting as I check this one out.
I have also as Rick to make me one that is just for a shopsmith. This will be the a direct fit on the shopsmith and have the correct angle set screw. When that comes in I'll have a look at that as well. This is an x-ray view of what it will look like.
[ATTACH]25105[/ATTACH]
Ed
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchan ... gory_Code=
I did this because I have two other adapters which take the shopsmith to 1-8tpi size and their adapter gets me where I want to go in that manor.
The one I ordered is really a PSI model which I guess you can order from them.
The adapter arrived today so I went out to see what I could see. I'm often not so happy with PSI items so I was thinking this could be a bust but was pleasantly surprised by the results. Yes the part is made off shore somewhere and the machining and feel reek of that but it is the function that I was most interested in. I paired the PSI adapter and gave it a test run, well first I re-prepared the wood to get everything back round and square. Then rotated the fixture 180 degrees, it was far better then when doing so with my make shift bolt, and in fact useable.
Next I paired the parts with my other 1-8 adapter from Best Wood Tools. The Best Wood Tools one is made in the USA, very nice workmanship and finish and has the set-screw at the "shopsmith" angle. Yes it costs a lot more but it is a much better choice if you can afford it. Testing this time was about as perfect as I could imagine it! A big thumbs up for this set up, but it might not be the most cost effective with the Best Wood Tools adapter depending on how you value things.
Here are a couple of pictures that might help you see what I've been writing about.
This is the adapter that allows 1"x8tpi lathe chucks, face plates and the like to mount on the shopsmith.
[ATTACH]25100[/ATTACH]
The adapter I purchased from Packard then attaches to the 1"x8tpi part and gives you a 3/8" x 16 tpi end for doing bottle stoppers and pendants or attaching the indexing and off set adapter from Ruth.
[ATTACH]25101[/ATTACH]
Put it all together and you have this.
[ATTACH]25102[/ATTACH]
Here is a side by side of the two 1" x 8 tpi adapters, note the Best Wood Tool one is the shorter unmounted one.
[ATTACH]25103[/ATTACH]
At this point it is pretty safe to say the problem was with the bolt adapter I made. While it works for turning bottle stoppers or things that are not indexed it is clearly lacking for the purpose I tried to use it for.
Keep in mind I have also ordered the new mandrel from Ruth, should have that may be tomorrow. I'll keep posting as I check this one out.
I have also as Rick to make me one that is just for a shopsmith. This will be the a direct fit on the shopsmith and have the correct angle set screw. When that comes in I'll have a look at that as well. This is an x-ray view of what it will look like.
[ATTACH]25105[/ATTACH]
Ed
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terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
Ed, I have to ask.
Does the model from Best Wood Tools take a MT2 as well? I see a hollow in the end.
Best Wood Tools = rherrel from IAP?
Does the model from Best Wood Tools take a MT2 as well? I see a hollow in the end.
Best Wood Tools = rherrel from IAP?
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
-
JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35598
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The bore cannot be both straight and tapered.
I surmise the 'hole' is to allow a push rod through. Altough a 5/8" bore does not leave much room for that.
My 'final guess' is that it is merely bored through. Maybe be easier to make that way?
I surmise the 'hole' is to allow a push rod through. Altough a 5/8" bore does not leave much room for that.
My 'final guess' is that it is merely bored through. Maybe be easier to make that way?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Hi,
Sorry the adapter does not take MT2. The hole is for vacuum applications on other systems and just a left over on the Shopsmith version. Unless someone knows how this would would be used on a shopsmith.
Best Wood Tools = http://www.bestwoodtools.com/
The machining on these = rherrel work. Yes I know they are expensive but they are also almost an art form.
BTW rherrel=Rick can only turn 1" and below items, just learn this on this project so keep that in mind if you want to have him do some special things for you.
Sorry the adapter does not take MT2. The hole is for vacuum applications on other systems and just a left over on the Shopsmith version. Unless someone knows how this would would be used on a shopsmith.
Best Wood Tools = http://www.bestwoodtools.com/
The machining on these = rherrel work. Yes I know they are expensive but they are also almost an art form.
BTW rherrel=Rick can only turn 1" and below items, just learn this on this project so keep that in mind if you want to have him do some special things for you.
terrydowning wrote:Ed, I have to ask.
Does the model from Best Wood Tools take a MT2 as well? I see a hollow in the end.
Best Wood Tools = rherrel from IAP?
-
terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
The mandrel from Ruth Niles arrived on Friday but I've been busy on other things until today. I'm happy to report although not unexpected results the parts work together perfectly.
Here are a few pictures so you can see it up close. In the first picture you see the mandrel and a shopsmith 1/2" router arbor.
The non-through hole in the mandrel allows the use of a 1/4" bar to help loosen a stuck part, for my part I think age is adjusting my ability to make things THAT tight but for some of you younger people this might help. As you might guess I'm planning on using the 1/2" shaft on the mandrel with the shopsmith router arbor. The second photo show that configuration.
[ATTACH]25127[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]25128[/ATTACH]
The whole thing then ends up looking like this:
[ATTACH]25129[/ATTACH]
Keep in mind the new mandrel will work by just adding the wood for a project like a bottle stopper without any other hardware.
Ruth cautioned that one of the features of the mandrel is the thread cutting 3/8 x 16 thread. For normal project requiring a threaded hole to mount this eliminates the hand tapping, you simple drill the hole and screw it on. However the same feature could make it possible to cross thread the holes on the aluminum... I think you would notice if that were to start happening but still a word of caution does not hurt.
[ATTACH]25130[/ATTACH]
The other adapter, the one from Rick is in the mail. Too bad it is a long weekend or I think I would have it on Monday, now I'll have to wait until Tuesday.
Ed
Here are a few pictures so you can see it up close. In the first picture you see the mandrel and a shopsmith 1/2" router arbor.
The non-through hole in the mandrel allows the use of a 1/4" bar to help loosen a stuck part, for my part I think age is adjusting my ability to make things THAT tight but for some of you younger people this might help. As you might guess I'm planning on using the 1/2" shaft on the mandrel with the shopsmith router arbor. The second photo show that configuration.
[ATTACH]25127[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]25128[/ATTACH]
The whole thing then ends up looking like this:
[ATTACH]25129[/ATTACH]
Keep in mind the new mandrel will work by just adding the wood for a project like a bottle stopper without any other hardware.
Ruth cautioned that one of the features of the mandrel is the thread cutting 3/8 x 16 thread. For normal project requiring a threaded hole to mount this eliminates the hand tapping, you simple drill the hole and screw it on. However the same feature could make it possible to cross thread the holes on the aluminum... I think you would notice if that were to start happening but still a word of caution does not hurt.
[ATTACH]25130[/ATTACH]
The other adapter, the one from Rick is in the mail. Too bad it is a long weekend or I think I would have it on Monday, now I'll have to wait until Tuesday.
Ed
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35598
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
So how is the run out(wobble 0-180) for that stackup.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Everything is looking great. It looks everything new I'm trying works. It certainly clear that my two bolts were the problem. Using the router arbor with Ruth's mandrel pretty much put that out of the possible problem category. Thus the only thing left are the bolt adapters I made.
Ed
Ed
JPG40504 wrote:So how is the run out(wobble 0-180) for that stackup.
My latest edition of an adapter arrived yesterday from Rick. Got some pictures so you can see what it looks like, not that you don't already have a good idea.
[ATTACH]25195[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]25196[/ATTACH]
A quick tour of what you see. This was designed so it was useable for turning bottle stoppers as well as other such objects or to allow the add-on's we have been discussing. The main shaft is 1" dia and the max that Rick can turn. This then causes the set-screw to be 3/16" tall. The set screw goes in on the "shopsmith" angle.
The step down to 13/16" is for when you under-cut the for the 13/16" threaded end of the bottle stopper hardware. The end screw length I based on the screw not contacting the indexing plate. The threaded portion is reduced hear the step so the parts will that screw on will fully seat.
It is again a piece of art besides being functional. I've spun tested it and indexed with out issues. For most people they would be happy just as it is... and it is fully functional the way it is but....
You know that pop you hear when you remove an arbor off the main shaft on the shopsmith??? Yea you do. Well it isn't happening here.
So here is the deal. I'm trying to find a none functional main shaft out of a quill that I can send to Rick and he will use that to get the "pop". I've posted a request here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=14664
No responses yet. If no one come through for me I will have to send the shaft out of my spare single bearing quill. Not a big deal.
This is total my fault, I did not spec the fit correctly, Rick just did what I asked.
I'm having two more made so I can give one to my brother for his 10ER. If you are interested in having one made you might want to contact Rick while he has my shaft to test with. If I'm gifted one then he can keep it for future projects.... so we shall see.
I believe this will conclude this thread unless you have questions or comments.
Ed
[ATTACH]25195[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]25196[/ATTACH]
A quick tour of what you see. This was designed so it was useable for turning bottle stoppers as well as other such objects or to allow the add-on's we have been discussing. The main shaft is 1" dia and the max that Rick can turn. This then causes the set-screw to be 3/16" tall. The set screw goes in on the "shopsmith" angle.
The step down to 13/16" is for when you under-cut the for the 13/16" threaded end of the bottle stopper hardware. The end screw length I based on the screw not contacting the indexing plate. The threaded portion is reduced hear the step so the parts will that screw on will fully seat.
It is again a piece of art besides being functional. I've spun tested it and indexed with out issues. For most people they would be happy just as it is... and it is fully functional the way it is but....
You know that pop you hear when you remove an arbor off the main shaft on the shopsmith??? Yea you do. Well it isn't happening here.
So here is the deal. I'm trying to find a none functional main shaft out of a quill that I can send to Rick and he will use that to get the "pop". I've posted a request here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=14664
No responses yet. If no one come through for me I will have to send the shaft out of my spare single bearing quill. Not a big deal.
This is total my fault, I did not spec the fit correctly, Rick just did what I asked.
I'm having two more made so I can give one to my brother for his 10ER. If you are interested in having one made you might want to contact Rick while he has my shaft to test with. If I'm gifted one then he can keep it for future projects.... so we shall see.
I believe this will conclude this thread unless you have questions or comments.
Ed
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