Will SS grinding wheel arbor handle 1" thick wheels?

[JPG]

This will not work with the shopsmith grinding wheel guard, it is too long and will not allow the guard to be mounted to the quill housing.

Agreed! When did the guard become a detail(since he mentioned guard arbor, that may be a reasonable detail). I was not considering it.

The keyed washer assures that the nut will not be loosened by reverse running or inertia at power down.

[SDSSmith]

Agreed! When did the guard become a detail(since he mentioned guard arbor, that may be a reasonable detail). I was not considering it.

The keyed washer assures that the nut will not be loosened by reverse running or inertia at power down.

In my book and IMHO, operating a grinding wheel requires a guard....it is a given (so a detail). The molder dado arbor will not work with the Shopsmith grinding guard. The OP can certainly build a guard that will accommodate the longer arbor.

[JPG]

In my book and IMHO, operating a grinding wheel requires a guard....it is a given (so a detail). The molder dado arbor will not work with the Shopsmith grinding guard. The OP can certainly build a guard that will accommodate the longer arbor.

I guess we can agree to disagree!:)




No question re safer.



Not ever having a wheel disintegrate nor seen such likely has me over confident.

I would definitely require a substantial guard on larger or faster wheels.



So IOHO then only a wheel that fits on the guard arbor should be used with the guard relevant to this thread.



Sorry I just belong to a less risk abhorrant generation.

[fitzhugh]

I do plan on making a gaurd. I followed the thread a few weeks back about the old shopsmith published plans for a shop built guard and noted with interest the reply stating it was not safe, having been designed and published back in 'less risk abhorrent' times. I figure I'll make one out of either sheet metal or fiberglassed wood, though I'll have to look at what counts as sufficient on commercial guards before settling on a design.

Good thing is I can adapt it to the setup. Also, I'll run it at slower speeds, probably 700 vs. the stated 3600 max rpm. It's an 8 x 1 x 1 Norton white premium - I'll get a blue 3x wheel at some point.

I've got a 1/2" arbor with 2 inches of threaded shaft. That's just exactly enough to have the the wheel, two flanges, blotters and nut with the nut fully threaded, but no keyed washer. What about the strong locktight or epoxy?

It looks like there may be no proper solution here. I wish that meant I just had to buy a baldor, but I can't, so it doesn't. Oh well. Am I missing something?

[JPG]

I do plan on making a gaurd. I followed the thread a few weeks back about the old shopsmith published plans for a shop built guard and noted with interest the reply stating it was not safe, having been designed and published back in 'less risk abhorrent' times. I figure I'll make one out of either sheet metal or fiberglassed wood, though I'll have to look at what counts as sufficient on commercial guards before settling on a design.

Good thing is I can adapt it to the setup. Also, I'll run it at slower speeds, probably 700 vs. the stated 3600 max rpm. It's an 8 x 1 x 1 Norton white premium - I'll get a blue 3x wheel at some point.

I've got a 1/2" arbor with 2 inches of threaded shaft. That's just exactly enough to have the the wheel, two flanges, blotters and nut with the nut fully threaded, but no keyed washer. What about the strong locktight or epoxy?

It looks like there may be no proper solution here. I wish that meant I just had to buy a baldor, but I can't, so it doesn't. Oh well. Am I missing something?

An 8" wheel places this in an entirely different category.

1/4" plate is a more likely raw material than that in ptwfe.

I said 'risk abhorrant', but I did not say risk head in the sand! I assumed(there is definately risk there) sizes(diameter) like those that would be comparable the the size that do fit the guard but wider.

One thing missing in this 'discussion' is the work piece rest.


And yes I missed the [8"] in the initial post.

[fitzhugh]

That's why I ask a lot of questions... I'm well aware I don't know what I don't know, especially concerning power tools.

A very quick look at OSHA regs seems to suggest hot rolled steel 1/16 in* minimum for the outer edge of the guard, and that is assuming I stumbled on the right section (hard to say since it is not displaying right on my phone).

Looks like I should rethink my approach from the beginning.

*edited from 1/8, typo.

[JPG]

That's why I ask a lot of questions... I'm well aware I don't know what I don't know, especially concerning power tools.

A very quick look at OSHA regs seems to suggest hot rolled steel 1/16 in* minimum for the outer edge of the guard, and that is assuming I stumbled on the right section (hard to say since it is not displaying right on my phone).

Looks like I should rethink my approach from the beginning.

*edited from 1/8, typo.

[ATTACH]25546[/ATTACH]

This it????????????

[fitzhugh]

Looks like what I saw, though as indicated I wouldn't count on my search results until I checked them on a computer with a proper screen the table wasn't formatting right and the page text hard enough for my eyes that I am not sure I found the right page.

HF had 8" for about 50, but I think I'd be better off returning the when for a 6 inch since the sfm will be less and I can mount it on more and cheaper things. I still hope to use the Shopsmith because I would like the lower speeds.

[WmZiggy]

I do plan on making a gaurd. I followed the thread a few weeks back about the old shopsmith published plans for a shop built guard and noted with interest the reply stating it was not safe, having been designed and published back in 'less risk abhorrent' times. I figure I'll make one out of either sheet metal or fiberglassed wood, though I'll have to look at what counts as sufficient on commercial guards before settling on a design.

Good thing is I can adapt it to the setup. Also, I'll run it at slower speeds, probably 700 vs. the stated 3600 max rpm. It's an 8 x 1 x 1 Norton white premium - I'll get a blue 3x wheel at some point.

I've got a 1/2" arbor with 2 inches of threaded shaft. That's just exactly enough to have the the wheel, two flanges, blotters and nut with the nut fully threaded, but no keyed washer. What about the strong locktight or epoxy?

It looks like there may be no proper solution here. I wish that meant I just had to buy a baldor, but I can't, so it doesn't. Oh well. Am I missing something?

Hugh, here is my post from back in May when the SS grinding issue came-up.

I will put my 2 cents in here. I don't use high speed grinding wheels any longer. Since I use and have lots of planes, lathe and woodworking chisels too, I have gone to slow moving water immersed grinding wheels and machines. I have several: A Prairie Wet Grindstone Model G7-V]http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Wet- ... Kit/T10010[/url] )

With these tools at their slow speed you are not standing in front of a potential weapon. You cannot take the temper out of your steel, and with their attachments you can get professional results or proper cutting angles. I would add another plus. All the dust goes into the water. I put a magnet in the tray on the Grizzly and it collects all the iron filings for later flushing. When using high speed dry wheels, carbide dust is a health hazard and one should always wear a mask - you don't want the stuff in your lungs. With a water wheel you don't have to worry about it. And by slow moving I mean 110 rpm on the Grizzly, about the same on my others.

I touch up my edge tools with water and diamond stones. I will never go back to dry stones on SS or any other motor.

Take a look at the 8" or 10" Grizzly. By the time you put money into arbors and the Guard, you will be close to the price of a wet grinder. Also, 700 rpm is still fast and will burn your steel at one inattentive moment. Also, you don't need to mask-up to prevent breathing in dangerous carbide or oxide dust. You will not regret a wet stone. P.S. The Prairie Wet Grindstone Model G7-V is no longer made.