Cheating big time on the lathe
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gr8mesquite
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Cheating big time on the lathe
Anybody ever use one of these?
http://toolfanatic.com/p/Manual-Lawn-Ae ... 858QbHCe00
Does it require a huge motor with an unusual amount of torque, or will a 3/4hp lathe motor turn it?
Also, can you remove the screw point after a while to get a flat bottom?
Thanks
http://toolfanatic.com/p/Manual-Lawn-Ae ... 858QbHCe00
Does it require a huge motor with an unusual amount of torque, or will a 3/4hp lathe motor turn it?
Also, can you remove the screw point after a while to get a flat bottom?
Thanks
Jerome
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
- JPG
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gr8mesquite wrote:Anybody ever use one of these?
http://toolfanatic.com/p/Manual-Lawn-Aerators/B003GUH4SC/detail/Steelex-D3654-4-58-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Forstner-Bit-with-Screw-Tip.php#.U858QbHCe00
Does it require a huge motor with an unusual amount of torque, or will a 3/4hp lathe motor turn it?
Also, can you remove the screw point after a while to get a flat bottom?
Thanks
I do not think power/ is the issue, speed is more likely a deterrent.
What is 'magic' about 4 5/8"?
Looks like the point may be removable.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- terrydowning
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I agree, keep the speed as slow as it will go.JPG40504 wrote:I do not think power/ is the issue, speed is more likely a deterrent.
What is 'magic' about 4 5/8"?
Looks like the point may be removable.
The SS Motor should handle it. It will heat up so take your time.
Many people use forstner bits in their lathes for hogging out bowls and such.
I have also seen people use a large forstner bit (same diameter of a face plate) to hog out much of a bowl blank before even putting on a lathe and then attach a faceplate for turning the outside of the bowl and the tenon. Very effective. on the demonstration I have seen.
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Terry
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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gr8mesquite
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Nothing "magic" about 4 5/8"--it just happens to be the largest Forstner I've come across on the web.JPG40504 wrote:I do not think power/ is the issue, speed is more likely a deterrent.
What is 'magic' about 4 5/8"?
Looks like the point may be removable.
I I realize that the screw is adjustable/perhaps removable. The mfg.'s description of the item points out that the screw helps in the cutting by pulling the bit into the wood. I'm wondering whether drilling would be as easy/accurate without the screw, in an effort to eliminate the screw hole. I would of course start with the screw, and possibly remove it at a certain depth.
I'm looking at 4 5/8" on a ruler, and I'm boggled by the amount of wood that could be hogged out on the inside of a turned bowl. It could make turning the inside really fast and accurate, although I refer to it as "cheating."
Jerome
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Seems like a very teeney tiny pointed screw for such a large bit!:rolleyes:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
gr8mesquite wrote:I'm wondering whether drilling would be as easy/accurate without the screw, in an effort to eliminate the screw hole. I would of course start with the screw, and possibly remove it at a certain depth.
I wood think if ya drill the hole deep enough, then ya could use the sides of the hole as a guide, with the screw removed.
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Bob
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Bob
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I have never used a bit that large in dia, but have some in the 1/2" to 1 1/2" wood boring bits with a similar screw threaded point, they tend to want to take control of the "boring" for lack of a better word at the moment, and pull itself into the wood as long as it is turning do to the threads acting as a screw, I found them very hard to control the depth of the boring.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
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56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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gr8mesquite
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