[quote="dusty"]Reversing the legs is not difficult. Simply drive out the pins, rotate the legs and reinsert the pin. I recommend a new pin though I have changed mine twice using the same pin.
The number of times that you can do this is, IMO, limited.
Without a reversible motor, I see very little utility in the left tilt]
Ahh but not all of us do!;) And some of us have extra tables(500). And then one is considering using a rewired 3/4hp motor for that function.
BTW If the pins are tapered, does this mean the holes on opposite sides of a post are different sizes?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Ahh but not all of us do!]If the pins are tapered, does this mean the holes on opposite sides of a post are different sizes?[/B]
Don't know! I'll check and if I can determine the answer without punching the pins again - I will. I have an extra pin and two tubes to check. If the holes are different size it will be a minimal difference.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:Don't know! I'll check and if I can determine the answer without punching the pins again - I will. I have an extra pin and two tubes to check. If the holes are different size it will be a minimal difference.
I assume the taper is very shallow. If the holes are different, reversing the tubes would change the 'tightness'. But since they are probably being 'driven in, the difference may be the reason you think repetitive 'driving' is limited.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
SDSSmith wrote:I thought the following shows what Shopsmith did:[ATTACH]12353[/ATTACH]I have been tempted to modify a couple of arms but just have not gotten around to it.
I found the metal on the base arm was too thin to really support a threaded knob that would be used often. I welded a 1" X 4" 1/2" thick aluminum plate vertically on the outside of the base arm where I wanted the knob to fit and tapped it to use the nice 10ER knobs that I had. It was very easy to saw the notches out of the base arm to fit the base arm pin. I used a file to clean up the notches.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Thanks guys I now have a basic idea of what I would to do if I decide I need a double tilt. I had not thought of the height problem. Different thoughts always. Thanks again. Larry
And then one is considering using a rewired 3/4hp motor for that function.
