My baby quit turning, but runs!
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My baby quit turning, but runs!
Hi guys! I'm a total noob on this contraption and was so excited to start today! I made a test cut on a 2x4 and it worked great although rather slow on the cut. Now I'm starting my project cutting a 4x4 and the blade slows and then quits but the motor still runs just fine! I took it apart and the belt was so loose that it wouldn't turn the drive for the blade. Sorry, I'm a little weak on the correct nomenclature regarding all of the widgets involved. Anyway, it's a 1982 model 500 that is practically spotless, less this issue. Any ideas?
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Don't despair. This too will go away. However, let's try to kept this discussion going on only one thread otherwise we will have related comments all over the forum. Right here in "Maintenace and Repair" is now the right place for this discussion.JohnSWA wrote:Hi guys! I'm a total noob on this contraption and was so excited to start today! I made a test cut on a 2x4 and it worked great although rather slow on the cut. Now I'm starting my project cutting a 4x4 and the blade slows and then quits but the motor still runs just fine! I took it apart and the belt was so loose that it wouldn't turn the drive for the blade. Sorry, I'm a little weak on the correct nomenclature regarding all of the widgets involved. Anyway, it's a 1982 model 500 that is practically spotless, less this issue. Any ideas?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
At what speed were ya cutting the 4X4? what feed rate were ya using. The same as cutting the 2X4? Is the blade SHARP?JohnSWA wrote:I made a test cut on a 2x4 and it worked great although rather slow on the cut. Now I'm starting my project cutting a 4x4 and the blade slows and then quits but the motor still runs just fine!
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
This sure sounds like a case of a loose poly v-belt. Pull the belt cover and check the tension, if you can push it in more then about 1/8" then it is loose.
You should also look at the condition of the belt, they do wear out and need to be replaced from time to time.
If that is the condition, ie loose or needs replacement we can talk you through the process..... It might be time to do your cleaning and lube job as well.
Ed
You should also look at the condition of the belt, they do wear out and need to be replaced from time to time.
If that is the condition, ie loose or needs replacement we can talk you through the process..... It might be time to do your cleaning and lube job as well.
Ed
- JPG
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1) There are two belts.
2) A 1/2" v-belt runs between the motor shaft(lowest) and the idler shaft(middle).
3) A wider poly-v belt runs between the idler shaft(middle) and the main shaft(upper).
4) One does NOT adjust the tension on the v-belt.
5) The tension on the poly-v belt is adjustable.
See about the 20 min mark. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS104/SS104_Replacing_Belts.htm
If the v-belt is slipping, the floating sheave on the motor shaft is sticking(needs lubrication).
So which belt is slipping?
BTW when increasing the load(sawing a board twice as thick) any speed adjustment should be 'down'(slower, not faster).
2) A 1/2" v-belt runs between the motor shaft(lowest) and the idler shaft(middle).
3) A wider poly-v belt runs between the idler shaft(middle) and the main shaft(upper).
4) One does NOT adjust the tension on the v-belt.
5) The tension on the poly-v belt is adjustable.
See about the 20 min mark. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS104/SS104_Replacing_Belts.htm
If the v-belt is slipping, the floating sheave on the motor shaft is sticking(needs lubrication).
So which belt is slipping?
BTW when increasing the load(sawing a board twice as thick) any speed adjustment should be 'down'(slower, not faster).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Given the new information you supplied I'm inclined to believe you are looking at the motor belt and what has happened is the that belt is now loose because of a problem in the lower sheave, it is stuck.
Time to take it apart and clean and lube the whole machine.... and hope that is all it needs. It is also possible that there is some damage that could mean parts replacements.
Ed
Time to take it apart and clean and lube the whole machine.... and hope that is all it needs. It is also possible that there is some damage that could mean parts replacements.
Ed
- dusty
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
JohnSWA wrote:Ok, after my response, the belt on the motor side is rediculously loose. I followed through with the directions for the r/r even though I'm not replacing the belt since it's not showing any signs of wear. I'd love to figure out a way to tighten up the belt where the blade turns!
At what speed is your Mark V speed control currently set?
The v belt will likely be referred to as the drive belt or motor belt. There is nothing you can do to "adjust" the tension of this belt. The belt is tensioned by the combined actions of the two sets of sheaves. The sheaves function together as a variable pulley set.
You change speed by using the speed dial which in turn changes the the upper sheave.
It appears that with your problem the upper sheave might not be turning at all. The belt is apparently so loose that the upper shaft is not turning. Given this condition, I suggest that you DO NOT change the speed dial until that situation is changed. Attempting to change the speed dial without the upper shaft turning can cause damage to the speed control.
If you a need to change the speed dial, you can safely do so by manually turning that upper shaft. This is most easily done (my opinion) by mounting a sanding disk on the upper shaft and then use it to turn the upper shaft. With the upper shaft continuously turning, you can then change the speed dial.
To work on this, I recommend that you put the Mark V in drill press mode and open it up as shown here.
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"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.