A Slow Boat To Nowhere

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beatnik
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Post by beatnik »

Could maybe use wedges between the strap and strip too if it needs more pressure. Good Luck.
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algale
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Post by algale »

Here's where it gets tricky. Strips bend vertical at bow and stern, and almost horizontal at the middle.
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shipwright
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Post by shipwright »

The problem is caused by something called "spiling". It is the tendency of a plank or in your case a strip to go up or down at one end when twisted. Spiling is also the verb used to describe taking the shape of a plank from the work so that it can be cut in a way that will make it lay in smoothly.

...... I know, I know, easy for me to say. You can't force this. It will get worse.
If you lay a flat batten (use a piece of planking) on the hull even with the top of your last piece, you will find that it likely won't follow it all the way without "cupping" away from the skin. What you need to do is mark a line with the batten flat on the existing planking and touching the edge of the top plank as much as possible and then cut the planking back to that "fair" line. then you can proceed and subsequent planks should line up better.
Alternatively you can fill in with tapered pieces to achieve the line that the batten shows.

Sorry if this doesn't seem to make sense. PM me if you don't get it. Planking one of these shouldn't be that hard but then I don't know the design. :-)
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
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algale
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Post by algale »

A little more progress after consultation with Shipwright.

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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

Great work, as usual. Keep us posted with your progress if you have the time.
Fred
Fred Sheldon
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'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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BuckeyeDennis
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Post by BuckeyeDennis »

Looks like you're "over the hump" .. should be downhill from there. Beautiful work. Almost too nice to get wet!
paulsgreenbarn
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Post by paulsgreenbarn »

I know nothing about building boats.Couldn't you steam them before fastening?Teach me something.
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algale
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Post by algale »

paulsgreenbarn wrote:I know nothing about building boats.Couldn't you steam them before fastening?Teach me something.
You are asking the wrong guy. First boat (canoe). I have two books on strip canoe building and have read several build blogs. Nobody steams the strips.
paulsgreenbarn
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Post by paulsgreenbarn »

Matbe it's because they want the boards to swell after being attachedto seal them.Steaming may cause them to swell too much.just a guess.
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

How are the strips sealed now? Are they glued?
Fred
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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