The 1981 model 500 I bought came with an upgraded saw guard (see pic) but not the mounting block, so I bought one.
To determine the exact mounting location on the worktable bar, I need to know how the saw guard sits on the table. Does the clear plastic shield sit flat on the surface or is it raised a little bit above the worktable? The mounting block looks like it can be attached to raise up the back of the saw guard about half an inch. Thanks.
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Need info on my saw guard plz.
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Need info on my saw guard plz.
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You may find step 3 in the following of interest.St8kout wrote:The 1981 model 500 I bought came with an upgraded saw guard (see pic) but not the mounting block, so I bought one.
To determine the exact mounting location on the worktable bar, I need to know how the saw guard sits on the table. Does the clear plastic shield sit flat on the surface or is it raised a little bit above the worktable? The mounting block looks like it can be attached to raise up the back of the saw guard about half an inch. Thanks.
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Saw Guard Upgrade.pdf- (339.7 KiB) Downloaded 822 times
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Well, that wasn't too bad after all, the drilling and taping for the saw guard mounting block.
When I was at Home Depot I saw that Dewalt sells the 1/4"-20 tap with the matching drill bit that is needed for the tap and die holes, so I gave it a shot. Don't have to buy a whole tap and die set. Pretty darn easy to do considering I've never tapped a hole before. The metal is relatively soft so the drill bit and the tap punched through in no time. I probably could have gone with a combo I saw where the drill and tap were one piece. Just put it in your drill and it taps the hole as you drill. Of course, you will need a reversible drill to back it out.
I wonder why the previous owner didn't do this since all he needed was the mounting block.
I thought I'd post pics in case someone else is wondering about doing the same.
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When I was at Home Depot I saw that Dewalt sells the 1/4"-20 tap with the matching drill bit that is needed for the tap and die holes, so I gave it a shot. Don't have to buy a whole tap and die set. Pretty darn easy to do considering I've never tapped a hole before. The metal is relatively soft so the drill bit and the tap punched through in no time. I probably could have gone with a combo I saw where the drill and tap were one piece. Just put it in your drill and it taps the hole as you drill. Of course, you will need a reversible drill to back it out.
I wonder why the previous owner didn't do this since all he needed was the mounting block.
I thought I'd post pics in case someone else is wondering about doing the same.
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