Band saw blades

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creekrunner
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Band saw blades

Post by creekrunner »

What's the best blade to get for re-sawing old oak lumber off an old barn?

Thanks,
David
ibskot
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Post by ibskot »

SS sells a 5/8 inch resaw blade....I'd would look at that first.
SS Mark V (1983 from Grandfather) upgraded to a 510, pieces to make a 500 mini, SS bandsaw, belt sander, broken scroll saw, and strip sander, Jet VS Mini Lathe, and tons of Lee Valley and vintage Stanley planes. Woodcraft slow speed grinder and a German made Tormek wannabe. Ridgid TS 3650 Table Saw, General 80-075LM Jointer.
creekrunner
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Post by creekrunner »

Thanks ibskot. Probably a 3tpi? Brand matter?
David
ibskot
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Post by ibskot »

Don't know but if you Google "shopsmith bandsaw resaw" there are several videos. Doug Reid did a really good one.
SS Mark V (1983 from Grandfather) upgraded to a 510, pieces to make a 500 mini, SS bandsaw, belt sander, broken scroll saw, and strip sander, Jet VS Mini Lathe, and tons of Lee Valley and vintage Stanley planes. Woodcraft slow speed grinder and a German made Tormek wannabe. Ridgid TS 3650 Table Saw, General 80-075LM Jointer.
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reible
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Post by reible »

For any resawing I would go with a woodslicer that is sold at highland.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... lades.aspx

This is the blade that I found worked the best for me along with the insturctions they give for tensioning it. I've been a fan since I first started using one and when I got a shopsmith bandsaw that was one of the first blades I ordered. I go with timberwolf blades for most of my other needs.

A couple of things to mention on old wood, there maybe imbedded nails, and other junk like dirt which will dull blades very quickly. If you have a lot of wood to do then you might want to buy a carbide blade, they are expensive but might be worth it in the long run. (I have no carbide blades but I don't do that much old wood)

I've heard good things about this blade:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/leno ... lades.aspx

BTW if you cut much green wood then I'd go with this blade:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... blade.aspx

Ed
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I second the woodslicer.

I have no experience with the others mentioned.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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algale
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Post by algale »

The Shopsmith 5/8 inch variable (3-4) tooth per inch blade (obviously this blade is made for Shopsmith by someone, but I don't know who) has impressed me with the smoothness of the resulting cut. It is item # 555421.
bffulgham
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Woodslicer .vs. Shopsmith 5/8"

Post by bffulgham »

Here's some info on my experiences with these 2 blades.
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
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moggymatt
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Post by moggymatt »

algale wrote:The Shopsmith 5/8 inch variable (3-4) tooth per inch blade (obviously this blade is made for Shopsmith by someone, but I don't know who) has impressed me with the smoothness of the resulting cut. It is item # 555421.
Ditto for me. I've been cutting oak cutoffs to try and make my own plywood for a second wood gear clock and it cuts extremely consistent and clean at 1/16" thick.
Paul B
creekrunner
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Post by creekrunner »

Thanks everyone. I ordered the 5/8" from SS. 3/4 tpi. I'll let you all know how it goes.
Just purchased the BS from a guy selling a whole system.
David





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