Bathroom Vanity Build

berry · Post by **berry** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 6:10 pm

The main equipment I used to make this vanity was a with SS 500 upgraded to 520, my router, router table, Craftsman dovetail jig and CMT pocket screw jig.

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There were three overriding factors for design. First while we are re-doing the bathroom we are keeping all the walls and not moving any plumbing. So that pretty much dictates the overall size, although we did raise the height 2.5” Second, we wanted a more ‘modern’ look/feel. Finally we wanted to get the most storage space in the vanity.

I’ve always thought that vanities don’t make good use of space. The best idea I could come up with to improve things was a large bottom drawer, the full width of the cabinet. This cuts down on the ‘cabinet space where the plumbing is but I never seem to use that space well.

I use Trimble SketchUp (aka Google SketchUp) for design work. Here is the drawing for the face frame. From the SketchUp work I made my cut list.

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WOOD – I decided on poplar for the face frame and drawer fronts. My local HD has a good selection of poplar and it’s priced fairly. For the case pieces I’m using ¾ birch veneer core. For the drawers Home Deport sells a 5/8” pine-like wood from Brazil. Finally, ¾” pine for the stretchers.

JOINERY – I used a combination of pocket screws plus tongue and groove joinery for this. Pocket screws and glue for the face frame. To attach the face frame to the case I used a tongue and groove system. With a table mounted router I cut tongues on the lead edge of case pieces and grooves on the back of the face frame. For assembly I use hidden pocket screw joinery. Stretchers and the nail rail have tongues cut to fit into the case sides too.

I think cutting the tongues and grooves is worth talking about. All the cuts are made on a router table. There are two key elements. First, cutters for the tongue and groove are a matched set.

Second, the cutters come with a rubber grommet. The grommet slides down to the bottom of the collet and the shank of the cutter rests on the grommet, when the collet nut is tightened the grommet compresses a bit. The grommet allows for the two cutters to be switched back and forth, and this is the key, without adjusting the height of the router.

I spent a lot of time and effort trying to get the color and finish we wanted. Here’s the final finishing schedule:

1. Garnett shellac – brushed on
2. Old Masters Cedar – wiped on
3. O'brien's mahogany – wiped on
4. 3 coats of General Finishes Java – wiped on
5. Top coat of 3 coats of General Finishes polyacryclic – brushed on
I have pics of each stage but I think you might find that boring.

To add a little ‘bling’ to the project and help the dark stain stand out some I went with glass door inserts instead of wood. I had the shop cut reeded glass to size and then I painted the back of the glass first with silver paint and then white. I used little clippy things to hold the glass in place.

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SEE NEXT POST FOR A BIT MORE INFO

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 6:19 pm

This looks like a really nice job. I believe your construction techniques might well be incorporated into a cabinet that I need to build for in my computer room/office.

Can you give me the name of the manufacturer for your router bits. I have not seen any that match your description of the set. It sounds as though they worked well.

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 6:23 pm

Fantastic project and a great post! I'd like to understand a little more about the cutters for the tongues/grooves and the grommet. I've not heard of that before. Maybe post a pic? Congrats, again.

Edit: I see you piqued Dusty's curiosity too with your description of the cutters.

berry · Post by **berry** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 6:27 pm

Here is a picture of the back and bottom of the cabinet. Missing from the picture is the 1/4' back panel that slides into place in the grooves on the case sides. You can see the stretchers, below the large drawer. On the left (of the picture) is a false cabinet side. I added this because I prefer to have the drawer slides mounted flush with the face frames.

The gap from the floor to the stretchers is to allow for the HVAC vent.

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I use these Kreg jigs to install drawer slides. I find the very useful for either insert drawers or drawers where the face overlaps the face frame.

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Here is the large drawer before glue-up.

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wodnek · Post by **wodnek** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:00 pm

I am very impressed, such a rich finish. I never got such awesome results with finishing poplar. I can see that with enough steps, it really looks good.

berry · Post by **berry** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:10 pm

dusty wrote:This looks like a really nice job. I believe your construction techniques might well be incorporated into a cabinet that I need to build for in my computer room/office.

Can you give me the name of the manufacturer for your router bits. I have not seen any that match your description of the set. It sounds as though they worked well.

First, the bits are made by an Italian company called CMT. You can find the at Amazon.

I bought them from Sommerfeld Tools for Wood. I think he's located in Iowa, or at least he used to be. I first heard about Marc Sommerfeld from someone at another forum. I purchased his video on cabinet building and the T&G set. An overview of "his system" is on YouTube. Here's a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klv0jzWD26w

I think he's hard to listen to but IMHO this system really works. Building cabinets is a snap. They are strong, square and easy to assemble. I don't work for this guy but think his system works and his products, at least the router bits are first rate.

Here is the set I got several years ago and cutting a tongue for the vanity a few weeks ago.

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[ATTACH]26461[/ATTACH]
Hope this helps. If there is anymore I can add, let me know.

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:25 pm

The attachment aren't opening for me.

berry wrote:First, the bits are made by an Italian company called CMT. You can find the at Amazon.

I bought them from Sommerfeld Tools for Wood. I think he's located in Iowa, or at least he used to be. I first heard about Marc Sommerfeld from someone at another forum. I purchased his video on cabinet building and the T&G set. An overview of "his system" is on YouTube. Here's a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klv0jzWD26w

I think he's hard to listen to but IMHO this system really works. Building cabinets is a snap. They are strong, square and easy to assemble. I don't work for this guy but think his system works and his products, at least the router bits are first rate.

Here is the set I got several years ago and cutting a tongue for the vanity a few weeks ago.

[ATTACH]26454[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]26455[/ATTACH]

Hope this helps. If there is anymore I can add, let me know.

kablerj · Post by **kablerj** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 7:53 pm

Looks great Berry. I'm going to be building the vanities for our new house. I really like your bottom drawer. I think I will incorporate that into my design.

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:53 am

Very nice! I like the design ....

tomsalwasser · Post by **tomsalwasser** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 7:24 am

Thanks berry for the great report on your vanity project. I have not seen the Sommerfeld technique before but I think I can use it for the things I do. In addition to strength, the tongue and groove looks like a real assembly aid, helping to align everything.

Your vanity looks fantastic, a first class job. I am impressed with the finishing work you did. I never get such nice results with stain. So many steps! I would have used solid walnut and a clear coat and skipped the stain entirely. Congratulations on a job well done.

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