Restoration progress on my bandsaw

[dusty]

heathicus, have you resolved the tension problem on your bandsaw?

I am curious because I am also having some problems while using my bandsaw. I think my problem is that I am too frugal; I may need to pop for new blades.

I can't rip a straight cut while using the rip fence but I can freehand a straight cut (constant compensation for blade lead). I don't think that should be necessary. Resawing - yes; ripping - no.

[nuhobby]

I just remembered this thread; the whole 2nd half is about bandsaw tension setting.

I was reminded by another post today, that the SS Bandsaw can run with the blade-guides at an angle, to provide unlimited cross-cut capability. Perhaps, keeping this angled-blade provision in mind, they chose a somewhat lower nominal tension setting, to allow for the blade to twist a bit?

[JPG]

I just remembered this thread]Perhaps[/B], keeping this angled-blade provision in mind, they chose a somewhat lower nominal tension setting, to allow for the blade to twist a bit?

I do not think a 45° twist between the upper and lower wheel will affect tension much.

[reible]

Hi,

Just finished reading this thread, and as luck would have I have also read Tip #31 which contains this information as to blade length.

"BANDSAW BLADES
Your bandsaw will accept any blade 1/16" to 5/8" wide and 72" long (within 1/2")."

and

"If you need a special blade, you can have it made at a well-equipped
commercial saw shop. Use only high-quality blade stock 1/16” - 1/2” wide. Be sure that the finished blade
is 72” long, plus or minus 1/2”, and that the weld is ground perfectly smooth."

So the answer to the length question is 71-1/2 to 72-1/2.

http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/092302/092302pt1.pdf

Ed

[JPG]

Hi,

Just finished reading this thread, and as luck would have I have also read Tip #31 which contains this information as to blade length.

"BANDSAW BLADES
Your bandsaw will accept any blade 1/16" to 5/8" wide and 72" long (within 1/2")."

and

"If you need a special blade, you can have it made at a well-equipped
commercial saw shop. Use only high-quality blade stock 1/16” - 1/2” wide. Be sure that the finished blade
is 72” long, plus or minus 1/2”, and that the weld is ground perfectly smooth."

So the answer to the length question is 71-1/2 to 72-1/2.

http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/092302/092302pt1.pdf

Ed

Within that length range(upper wheel position varies ±1/4") the bar spring will provide proper 'calibrated' tension. Tension screw range limits the variation tolerated.

[heathicus]

I just read back through this thread while looking for pictures of the condition of my original black tires and I see there are some posts I hadn't seen before. Particularly:

[quote="dusty"]heathicus, have you resolved the tension problem on your bandsaw?

I am curious because I am also having some problems while using my bandsaw. I think my problem is that I am too frugal]

The bandsaw is exhibiting the same behavior as discussed in this thread. But, I have "resolved" the problem by not paying attention to the tension guide and just tightening the blade to where it feels right to me given the task and blade width. I might be doing it wrong, but it works for me.

I haven't had much luck trying to use a fence, or even a guide block when ripping or resawing any significant thickness. I'm sure that's more my failing than the equipment, though. I just freehand it, take my time, and follow the line adjusting for drift or blade lead as necessary. I don't have a good wide resaw blade, so when I resawed some 6" wide cherry and maple for my domino project, my first attempt was a disaster with the top being on the line and the bottom being way off (that is, the blade flexed through the cut rather than remaining straight). So, I drew my line on both edges and would frequently back out and flip the board over and cut from the other side. Then at about half way through, I'd turn the board around and cut from the other end.

[lewparsell]

I am rebuilding my old band saw and the 514011 auto track bearing's rubber cover is cracked and half missing. My question is about the replacement the one I have is a one piece bearing and the replacement is requiring two pieces. Will this work on my old machine.

[dusty]

I am rebuilding my old band saw and the 514011 auto track bearing's rubber cover is cracked and half missing. My question is about the replacement the one I have is a one piece bearing and the replacement is requiring two pieces. Will this work on my old machine.

I hesitate to say that using a single bearing in place of the two bearings will not work but remember that the purpose of this bearing is to keep the bandsaw blade properly located. The blade rides in a small groove that is formed when the two bearings are installed side by side. Without that groove to "track" the bearing, I fear that it will wander.

As for the rubber shield being cracked/missing, that alone justifies replacement of the bearing(s). The shield is there to protect the bearings from external contamination (in this case - sawdust). Without the shield, the bearing are short lived.

The parts list.

Bearings are readily available either from Shopsmith or from your local bearing distributor. Locally, I use Motion Industries.

[billmayo]

I find using the 2 bearings together track much better at all 3 locations than the single wider bearing or the roller bushing used in the earlier bandsaws. This helps keep the bandsaw blade tracking in the center of the 2 bearings rather than being able to slide side to side on the single bearing or roller bushing. This may take a little more effort during the alignment to center the bearings on the bandsaw blade.

[S Brian]

I acquired a 1985 vintage bandsaw four years ago and I think it has the original tires. The person I got it from never used it. There were no cracks in the tires, but they they had thick saw dust on them, so I cleaned them as good as possible and wiped them with belt conditioner a few time over several days and they look like new. Now I brush off the saw dust and reapply the conditioner every month or so and it does leave the tires slightly sticky.

I replaced my blade guide bearings a year ago and I bought the replacements from Bill Mayo and he includes the required screws with the bearings. The cost was $25.