Rock solid fence on older 500 for less than a buck !!

[sandyj]

I though I would share this with you all...
For less than $1 I have made my 1960 MK's fence rock solid.

When boring hard wood the fence tended to slip to the point where is was a real pain so I had a thunk...

Undo the fence locking screw so you have about 1/2" gap between rear of table and rear of fence clamp.
Get a bit of scrap 1/4 ply cut to size of for the rear clamp and using carpet tape double sided sticky, on both sides of ply, mounted it onto the clamp then stuck some emery cloth on the other side of the ply facing the table. Tighten as per normal.
Now in horizontal boring there is absolutely no slippage of the fence.

Regards
Sandy

[fjimp]

I though I would share this with you all...
For less than $1 I have made my 1960 MK's fence rock solid.

When boring hard wood the fence tended to slip to the point where is was a real pain so I had a thunk...

Undo the fence locking screw so you have about 1/2" gap between rear of table and rear of fence clamp.
Get a bit of scrap 1/4 ply cut to size of for the rear clamp and using carpet tape double sided sticky, on both sides of ply, mounted it onto the clamp then stuck some emery cloth on the other side of the ply facing the table. Tighten as per normal.
Now in horizontal boring there is absolutely no slippage of the fence.

Regards
Sandy

Sandy, Would it be possible to share a picture of you intriging idea with us? Jim

[sandyj]

Here are a couple of pics of the modification.
First shows the fence clamp as is - this is unwound far enough to get the mod installed but remove fence to make it easier. The second pic shows the mod in place. I damaged the ply removing it for the pic but used 5/16th formica for the fix and works just as well.

[ATTACH]1634[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]1635[/ATTACH]

Regards
Sandy

[nuhobby]

Excellent! I may use that very idea soon.

Thanks

[jbemis]

Great idea. I am going to "borrow" it.

[killgore]

Is it possible to replace the levers for height adjustment with wheels as seen on later models. I don't want to upgrade to 520 since I don't use it for table sawing.

[regnar]

You could also put grip tape/ skateboard tape along the backside of the table. Then you wouldnt have use the 1/4 piece of wood.

[dusty]

I have seen this same fix accomplished by using heat shrinkable tubing. Put the heat shrink onto the rear pressure bar and shrink it tight, trim the excess and then do it again.

This puts sort of a thick rubber boot on the pressure bar. Same concept, different method.

[JPG]

Is it possible to replace the levers for height adjustment with wheels as seen on later models. I don't want to upgrade to 520 since I don't use it for table sawing.

Yes! I have done it! It is fairly simple. The most expensive part is the 'wheel'.

It does have one drawback. When in vertical drill press mode, the table hits the 'wheel' about 2" from its usual bottoming out against the way tubes.

You need to make a round spacer with an od of about 7/8". This needs a center hole through the cylindrical center. Its purpose is to center the part that will fit over it. I used a paper roll center(plastic/easy to cut).

Starting at the large wing nut the standard parts sequence is: Wing nut/washer/sleeve with handle screwed in to it/ thingy with square hole through it and hills and valleys around the outside/square shaft.....

1) remove the wing nut/washer/sleeve with handle and set aside.

2) remove square holed/hill n valley thingy and store it for posterity or to reverse this procedure.

3) Cut spacer to length of sleeve +0 -0.1". Slip this spacer over the square shaft(you will have to hold far end to keep it from slipping out).

4) Unscrew handle from sleeve and put it with the thingy. Slip sleeve over the new spacer.

5) Slip a (new) flat washer over the square shaft. I used a washer just barely too small to fit and filed out notches for the 4 corners. The od of the washer must be larger than the sleeve.

6) Slip new wheel onto the square shaft(see # 3).

7) Replace washer and then wing nut.

UR done!

The paper core I used had a small hole supported by ribs from the outer surface. There were 8 ribs so all i had to do is slice the core 4 places to make room for the square corners of the square shaft. The purpose of the spacer is to hold the sleeve centered when table lock wing nut is loosened.
The purpose of the new large washer is to allow wheel to 'push' against the outside of the sleeve when the lock wing nut is tightened.

P.S. You will have better response with a 'new' subject by starting a new thread!