Hello,
Am new to the site and been browsing and learning as much as I can about the
Shopsmith.
Purchase an older model...price was right and it looked in very good shape.
It will be even better after I am done cleaning and replacing any worn pieces.
Question concerning when replacing the belts..?
Should a person do an upgrade from the Gilmer style to the Poly V set-up..?
The Quill assembly now has a two bearing set-up on it already.
Pro and cons, of such.
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This is the Greenie before even a clean up, I do know the band saw is at the wrong end..
acowboy wrote:Question concerning when replacing the belts..?
Should a person do an upgrade from the Gilmer style to the Poly V set-up..?
The Quill assembly now has a two bearing set-up on it already.
The cost for the Gilmer style to the Poly V set-up. Wood cost $500 or more. I have doubts that you have a two bearing quill.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
acowboy wrote:Thanks for the reply.
As for the the quill the part that I thought was another bearing must be a
split two piece washer, pic of the end.
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That is a spacer used to hold the end of the quill shaft near the center so as to facilitate insertion into the sleeve when installing it into the headstock. Without it the end of the shaft wobbles all over the place.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Shopsmith did not have a two bearing quill for the Gilmer Drive quill. I machined a few Gilmer quills for a second bearing years ago but had almost no one interested in buying one. I might still have 1 or 2 left but not checked recently. Now, I use the Poly-V Drive for any headstock that I allowed reversing of the motor. The Gilmer belt does not like running in the opposite direction. I have a complete Poly-V Drive setup with the double bearing quill, Drive Sleeve assembly, Poly-V belt and Control & Idler Sheave assembly available.
That is a spacer used to hold the end of the quill shaft near the center so as to facilitate insertion into the sleeve when installing it into the headstock. Without it the end of the shaft wobbles all over the place.
Thank you for the answer, as far as upgrading, still have not made up my mind.
I like to keep it original as much as I can. I restore hand planes for a hobby, most are original but a few are not.
All the finished ones are working tools and can be used.
To many irons in the fire right now, am in the process of cleaning up the inside.
Everything is working but the speed control looks a little offset, plus the Allen screw has been replaced.
I am going to upload some photo's, would appreciate any suggestions or if someone see something that may be wrong.
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The Gilmer sprocket and belt...which appears to be loose.
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Finally the motor..which looks to be a replacement
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Pic #2701 speed control has been modified to accept a standard machine screw. There should be an allen screw with a 3/32 socket. Also the flange of the speed control has been ground away to permit a screw driver to get to the screw.
The set screw is supposed to engage the dimple in the hole visible in the shaft seen in pic 2700.
The speed control "porkchop" seems to have some wear but is fixable using a repair kit from Bill Mayo on this forum. I am not familiar enough to comment on the Gilmer drive sleeve so I don't know if the wear on the sprockets is normal or not.
Others will chime in with more details.
Bill V
That is a later Mark V 1 1/8 HP motor. The Gilmer pulley wear looks normal. It looks like there is a Gilmer clutch in this pulley that may have problems. I test for around 12 to 16 ft pds of torque on these clutches. I have parts and tools to rebuild these Gilmer clutches.
