Questions about router mortise cutting

[JPG]

An advantage of the SS router bits is that they also have the ends sharpened so they cut like an end mill.

That allows one to cut the 'hole' almost to the 'end', then using the quill like a drill press cut the ends of the 'hole' vertically with one pass at each end.

Ah Ha! I didn't know that...seems like that is the way to go...I will have a closer look at Shopsmith's bits...I might vary your suggested procedure a wee bit by drilling the end holes first so they act as stops, then rout out the rest of the mortise. Thanks for the tip, JPG.

If you 'do the ends first', you run the risk of over running. The hole will not act as a stop. The material not yet removed by boring the end last can act as a stop.

[edflorence]

An advantage of the SS router bits is that they also have the ends sharpened so they cut like an end mill.

That allows one to cut the 'hole' almost to the 'end', then using the quill like a drill press cut the ends of the 'hole' vertically with one pass at each end.

Ah Ha! I didn't know that...seems like that is the way to go...I will have a closer look at Shopsmith's bits...I might vary your suggested procedure a wee bit by drilling the end holes first so they act as stops, then rout out the rest of the mortise. Thanks for the tip, JPG.

If you 'do the ends first', you run the risk of over running. The hole will not act as a stop. The material not yet removed by boring the end last can act as a stop.

You know, you are right...the holes won't really be "stops"...I was thinking I would be able to stop the feed as the bit came into the hole, but it is true the hole itself is not a "stop". Thinking about it some more, I bet I came up with that idea just because that is how I always sequence the work when I drill out mortises...I start with the ends first, then drill a series of overlapping holes along the rest of the work. Your procedure will be a safer way to go when routing mortises.

[reible]

Hi,

Prototype is well under way. Since I never got any real answers to the questions posed I will tell you what decisions I've made. I will not be making any drawings available with dimensions so if you like the idea you can make your own decisions.

...

1) What is the maximum length you cut for a mortise? For me I'd say 4".

Answer: The limit is 5" without repositioning.

2) What is the thickness of wood you might want to use? I'd say from 3/4" to about 4"

Answer: Minimum no longer applies and the maximum is 3-1/2", but that could be expanded if needed.

3) How tall of wood do you cut this way? I'm thinking from 3/4" to again 4" tall.

Answer: Fence design is not finished but it looks like 3/4" to 3-1/2" will work well.

4) Do you ever use the shopsmith mortising jig to make the end hole square? I haven't but I could see this as a possible.

Answer: No testing so far.

5) Would a stop device for each end of the cut be useful? I'm inclined to think this would be a big plus.

Answer: Starting and stopping stops are part of the design.

6) How interested would you be in being able to be able to use this with the OPR? I don't have a new version so I would need someone to work with me to make it compatible, you know someone who owns one.

Answer: The design is for the 520, other things might be adaptable.

Ed

Photos and more details will appear in a new post. I will edit this post with a link when it is posted.

Ed

[charlese]

Has anyone used the horizontal boring mode to make mortises? Before I got an OPR I used to mortise in the horizontal mode. It worked very well with the standard headstock - (No PowerPro).

[reible]

The follow up to this threads questions can be found at:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... =5&t=15928

Ed