Need some help

[gr8mesquite]

Thanks all--I have more confidence. I like the V-Shaped jig that Ed sent. My concern now is burn by lingering too long in one spot as I change hands.What I might try is putting a handle on the work surface using 2 faced tape. The way I visualize that in operation is my left hand steadies and pushes the work against the bearing, while my right hand cranks the handle around in a continuous motion.

[dusty]

Jerome, you are over thinking this. Unless you are doing some really heavy routing (or if you working with Cherry) you are not likely to have any burning.

[shipwright]

You can reduce burn by slowing the router down. Also make your original cut a bit shallow and finish with a very thin cut.
If you are comfortable with it, climb cutting will eliminate the tearout that is common in routing round objects. Climb cutting need not be scary if you understand the forces and have your material under firm control.
Personally I always climb cut when there is any chance of running into grain.

[masonsailor2]

Hi Jerome. Here is another tip that will make your routering a little easier. There is no need to clamp the piece at all. Go to the hardware store or Costco and buy a roll of the perforated rubber like drawer/shelf liner. Lay it out on your bench and put your blank on it. The weight of the piece and the router will hold it in place like it was glued to the table. You will find all kinds of uses for it in the shop. We use it on the bench for sanding pieces especially when using orbital sanders. Another great use is as a floor mat in front of your SS, bench etc. It doesn't last as long as regular floor matting but it will last quite a while and has the added advantage of being able to roll up quickly for cleanup. Its also very inexpensive.
Paul

[wa2crk]

One other word of caution. If you stop in the middle of a cut and want to restart. Back the work piece up and restart in a spot that has already been cut. Doing this will help to minimize the possibility of a kickback.
Bill V

[lyall]

do not try to make a full cut.
try doing several smaller passes, that way you get the fill of the cut.

[gr8mesquite]

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Thanks for all of your comments and suggestions. Since this was a new procedure for me, I pulled out solid info from each post and decided to use caution. I went with a "belt and suspenders" approach, using a router table, my circle cutting jig/board, a guide bearing, and a center pivot. "...no joy in Mudville...Casey struck out." What I feared would happen happened--burn.

What do you think went wrong?

Thanks

[charlese]

... "...no joy in Mudville...Casey struck out." What I feared would happen happened--burn.

What do you think went wrong?

Thanks

I believe you have over-thought this proceedure. The center point of your rounded piece was probably right on, however just a slight out of round edge will give you this burning.

It would have been best if you did not tie down the wood. Really - all you need to do is pass the wood slightly against the router bit. For example rout about an inch then rout another inch and keep doing this until the entire circumference is done.

You may be able to get rid of those burns by sanding, but what I'd do is to elevate the bit a few thousanths and do it again - section by section. If you can't slow down your router, then move the wood faster. The bearing on the bit will keep the edge straight.

If the bearing on the bit is above the curve you will get a slight ridge along the edge. This can be sanded to eliminate the ridge.

[kablerj]

......what I'd do is to elevate the bit a few thousanths and do it again - section by section. If you can't slow down your router, then move the wood faster. The bearing on the bit will keep the edge straight.

I agree.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Also, if you can't slow down your router, Harbor Freight has a solution for about 20 bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... 43060.html