What did I buy, 500 or 510?

[Cornell]

Nick Engler, in a video, says to use green Scotch Brite, followed by 600 wet/dry and lastly 1800 crocus cloth, for getting rid of bits of corrosion. He indicates that crocus cloth can be found at automotive stores. This is repeated in a Shopsmith document "Stripping Down the Headstock
For cleaning and inspection"

Well, not around here. I can find 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry. Would that be a sufficient instead of 1800 crocus cloth?

And the Bar Keepers Friend, would that be after the 1800 crocus cloth, or after the 600 wet/dry? Or just, by itself?

[JPG]

Assuming we are flapping about steel tubes, I use 220 followed by 400 and quit.

[Cornell]

Thank you Dusty and JPG... I don't know If I should start a new thread, or just continue with this one...

I've a question about the speed changer, it goes up easy, but cranks down with difficulty.

To bring us up to speed...

I've since ordered a DIY upgrade to the Power Pro. And I've thought, perhaps this is a good headstock, why not see if I could buy a cheap, maybe broken headstock, and upgrade that one. And I found a 500 with bench, the speed changer is bad, but the tubes are better. I paid $225. And it came it pieces... assembling the bench is a ... bear.

Anyway, I went back to cleaning the 510 and checking it out. Cleaned up the corrosion on the way tube, Scotchbrite, 600 wet/dry, then 2000, followed with wax.. It's pitted, but smooth, the headstock and carriage slide smoothly.

Took off the cover, blew out the dust, cleaned it out, a bit of lube to the lower sheaves...

Put the cover back on and started it up. I ran the speed changer up to fast, easy peasy, nice and smooth. But... turning it back down to slow was quite difficult. To crank it up, I just held the handle with index finger and thumb. But to crank it down, I ended up putting my finger tips on the outside of the changer and turned.

So... easy up, difficult down.

Is this a symptom of anything in particular?

I plan to remove the changer, and see if it's gummed up. Looking through the inspection port, the pork chop looks good, a little dusty perhaps. SHould I lube the porkchop with graphite?

So, any ideas?

Thank you all
Cornell

[JPG]

Thank you Dusty and JPG... I don't know If I should start a new thread, or just continue with this one...

I've a question about the speed changer, it goes up easy, but cranks down with difficulty.

To bring us up to speed...

I've since ordered a DIY upgrade to the Power Pro. And I've thought, perhaps this is a good headstock, why not see if I could buy a cheap, maybe broken headstock, and upgrade that one. And I found a 500 with bench, the speed changer is bad, but the tubes are better. I paid $225. And it came it pieces... assembling the bench is a ... bear.

Anyway, I went back to cleaning the 510 and checking it out. Cleaned up the corrosion on the way tube, Scotchbrite, 600 wet/dry, then 2000, followed with wax.. It's pitted, but smooth, the headstock and carriage slide smoothly.

Took off the cover, blew out the dust, cleaned it out, a bit of lube to the lower sheaves...

Put the cover back on and started it up. I ran the speed changer up to fast, easy peasy, nice and smooth. But... turning it back down to slow was quite difficult. To crank it up, I just held the handle with index finger and thumb. But to crank it down, I ended up putting my finger tips on the outside of the changer and turned.

So... easy up, difficult down.

Is this a symptom of anything in particular?

I plan to remove the changer, and see if it's gummed up. Looking through the inspection port, the pork chop looks good, a little dusty perhaps. SHould I lube the porkchop with graphite?

So, any ideas?

Thank you all
Cornell

Understand what is going on.

When increasing the speed, the control sheave is opening the idler pulley. Easy peasy. The motor pulley closes to maintain tension.

When decreasing the speed the control sheave is squeezing the motor belt in the idler pulley. The motor pulley must respond by opening.(floating sheave). Not so easy. It is the extra force required to lower the speed that causes damage to the porkchop if adjusted too fast or without the pulleys rotating. Once the porkchop gets damaged it becomes even harder to lower the speed. The floating sheave must be free to open the motor pulley quickly to prevent damage.

When lowering the speed, it must be done slower to give the floating sheave time to react. Going up, fast is possible.(and easier)

Graphite on the porkchop cannot hurt!

[Cornell]

Thanks JPG.

I understand that when speeding up, the mechanism is ... releasing, and easy. And slowing down, it's ... compressing, not so easy.

But my memory of my previous SS, many years ago, is that that difference is small. I could easily grip the handle with thumb and forefinger and move it either way, although a little more effort to slow down.

This one, however, is sufficiently difficult that I can't grip it well enough with just the two on the handle, I need all five on the dial. There is much more resistance than just the effort to compress instead of release.

I'm thinking there's additional resistance being added by parts that are either dry or gummed up, not sliding easily, perhaps not lubed.

Originally, I'd thought about the changer, but was nagged by the idea that if it's gummed up, resistance should be present in either direction.

Now I'm thinking the control sheave, idler pulley. I'll have to look more closely at that area, see if I find a lubrication point. I don't want to have to strip it down.

[greasemonkey2275]

I could easily grip the handle with thumb and forefinger and move it either way, although a little more effort to slow down.

This one, however, is sufficiently difficult that I can't grip it well enough with just the two on the handle, I need all five on the dial. There is much more resistance than just the effort to compress instead of release.

I'm thinking there's additional resistance being added by parts that are either dry or gummed up, not sliding easily, perhaps not lubed.

Lube is going to play a huge role in freeing everything up but I noticed something when rebuilding my SS that may help you. I was experiencing the same problem, I needed a full hand to turn the speed dial as opposed to just being able to use the finger/thumb method. When I looked closer at where the porkchop meets the speed control I noticed that the legs were splayed out where the roll pin goes through. This was causing the porkchop to bind because it was not centered on the pinion gear. I carefully knocked out the roll pin without doing further damage to the legs and replaced the pin with a 10-32 allen head bolt and nyloc nut, the 2 1/2" long, this allows the porkchop to pivot on the shank of the bolt instead of on the threads. I put it all back together with a little lube and it works like a champ; just make sure that once you tighten the nut down you back it off a little so everything moves freely. This will eliminate that "play" and it will be nice and easy to spin just like I'm sure it did when it came off the showroom floor or out of the box.

[JPG]

Perhaps a closer look at the teeth on the porkchop(quadrant gear) will reveal the problem. Although you mentioned the teeth were good, they may be deformed. A common problem is the legs splay out as mentioned above causing the worm gear to misalign with the quadrant gear teeth. The quadrant gear teeth are soft and the steel worm gear will mash the sides of the quadrant gear teeth and the whole shebang gets biased causing binding. That binding becomes more noticable under stress(going towards slow - pushing rather than pulling).

[Cornell]

Thank you greasemonkey and JPG. I'll look more closely, maybe post a photo.

I lubed the control sheave. I used the pen oiler I got from SS. It seems a little better, I can use two fingers both up and down. But slowing down is still way more than speeding up.

I read in the Maintenance and Alignment manual that one should get it up to high speed and turn it off (the only time one turns it off not at slow) when lubing the control and motor sheaves. I've a problem with that... When I turn it back on to bring it down again, apparently it draws a lot more and pops the breaker in a second or two. So... turn it on, turn the dial a bit, turn it off, reset the breaker, repeat. Doesn't sound like a good idea ;-) But then I was using a power strip (the plug's behind a heavy cabinet, so I put the strip in and plug into it.)
Anyway, I lubed both in slow position.

Is it that much better to lube in fast position? I can run heavy duty extension cord from another plug.

I did manage to get the changer dial off. Got the allen wrench in but needed pliers to turn it. Once it popped, I still needed the pliers, for about two full turns. Then I could do it by hand. Got the dial off, and it was gummed up, seems like a mix of old oil and sawdust.

I bought a set of long arm allen wrenches so I could get the speed changer cover off. Once the cover was off, the dial got moved, where to move it to, so when I put the cover on, it's set correctly. From full slow, the allen wrench port was at about 11 o'clock. I'd turned it up to somewhere around jigsaw to get the port straight up.

So now two more problems:
What to lube the changer with, oil or graphite?
And where should the dial be set?

[rpd]

I read in the Maintenance and Alignment manual that one should get it up to high speed and turn it off (the only time one turns it off not at slow) when lubing the control and motor sheaves. I've a problem with that... When I turn it back on to bring it down again, apparently it draws a lot more and pops the breaker in a second or two. So... turn it on, turn the dial a bit, turn it off, reset the breaker, repeat. Doesn't sound like a good idea ;-) But then I was using a power strip (the plug's behind a heavy cabinet, so I put the strip in and plug into it.)
Anyway, I lubed both in slow position.

The shafts do need to be turning when you adjust the speed down, but it does not need to be under power.
Mount a sanding disk on the quill shaft and turn it by hand while reducing the speed setting to low.

Also here is a video showing how to set the speed dial
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWVxeTqUgT8[/youtube]

[JPG]

. . . But then I was using a power strip (the plug's behind a heavy cabinet, so I put the strip in and plug into it.)
Anyway, I lubed both in slow position.

Is it that much better to lube in fast position? I can run heavy duty extension cord from another plug.
. . .

So now two more problems:
What to lube the changer with, oil or graphite?
And where should the dial be set?

Heavy Duty extension cord good! Power strip bad!!!

#10 machine oil = 3 in one = sewing machine oil = turbine oil = zoom spout . . .

The reason for oiling at high speed it that the oil holes are more accessable than at slow.