Ripping Purple Heart on Shopsmith

[nhelsinger]

Good Afternoon friends!

I am struggling ripping 8/4 purple heart and 8/4 hard rock maple on my shopsmith. The blade even quit moving on my once. I purchased a new blade that I am going go try tonight, but what are some other options to ensure a better, smoother cut. Speed increase/decrease?

I appreciate any and all suggestions!

Thanks all and Happy Monday!

[rjent]

Good Afternoon friends!

I am struggling ripping 8/4 purple heart and 8/4 hard rock maple on my shopsmith. The blade even quit moving on my once. I purchased a new blade that I am going go try tonight, but what are some other options to ensure a better, smoother cut. Speed increase/decrease?

I appreciate any and all suggestions!

Thanks all and Happy Monday!

I am far from an expert, but slow down the speed. The way the variable sheave system on a Mark V works is like a transmission and slower means a mechanical advantage to the motor. Remember to feed the wood slower ...

JMHO

[nhelsinger]

Thank you for your response, I will give that a try, I was speeding up, very well could be my problem....along with an old blade. I typically run a 10inch blade, anyone see a problem with that blade size?

[algale]

Check your alignment (rip fence to blade). If alignment is proper, slow the blade a few letters below saw speed which will give you more torque.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Thank you for your response, I will give that a try, I was speeding up, very well could be my problem....along with an old blade. I typically run a 10inch blade, anyone see a problem with that blade size?

+1 on rjent's analysis/advice. Blade diameter can be compensated for with the variable speed. But if the blade is old, it may also be dull.

Everything else being equal, a thin-kerf blade requires proportionally less power than a standard blade. 3/32:1/8 = 3:4.

[ChrisNeilan]

If you think ripping purple heart is tough, wait to you cross cut it. Watch for splintering!

[charlese]

Although I don't know a thing about purple heart, I copied this from "The Wood Database". Seems to affirm the above recommendations.

"Workability: Working with Purpleheart can present some unique challenges: if the wood is heated with dull tools, or if cutter speeds are too high, Purpleheart will exude a gummy resin that can clog tools and complicate the machining process. Depending on the grain orientation, can be difficult to plane without tearout. Purpleheart also has a moderate dulling effect on cutters."

[jsburger]

I have not cut purple heart but, I have cut 8/4 hard maple with no problem. I agree with what everyone else has said. A good sharp blade goes without saying. I use a carbide Forrest Woodworker II. Also slowing down the speed for more torque helps. I go down to the low end of the saw range or slightly below. Speed is not a problem with the Power Pro. Last is the feed rate. It must be slower. My guess is you will see a big difference with a new blade unless you have a fence alignment issue.

I have cut 8/4 hard maple on my 3 HP Powermatic PM2000 with the same Forrest blade and to be honest the extra 2 HP does not make much difference. The feed rate on both machines is about the same.

[benush26]

You might want to clean your blade before continuing. Woods high in oil can make a new sharp blade quickly react as if it was old and dull.

Cocobolo is notorious for being high in oil (even higher than purpleheart). I generally cut it on the bandsaw if plausible where I can slow the blade speed and easily clean the blade after a few cuts. If your only choice is the table saw, then the motto slow speed slow feed is appropriate.

Be well,
Ben

[nhelsinger]

Thank you all for your feedback! The new blade, I purchased a Diablo for a quick fix, and slowing down the speed did wonders! Cut through like butter! I am in a crunch for time finishing up a wedding gift. Any good reviews on this blade over a forrester?

Also, any suggestions on how to maintain your saw blade. Can you resharpen?