Picture frame problem
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Picture frame problem
I'm in the process of making a frame for a canvas stretched picture. The sections are in a squared P shape. I don't think a plain miter corner will last. There isn't enough wood to spline the joint. The wood is oak. See picture for profile. Any suggestions on how do make the corners?
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Jim in Bakersfield:D
If proper glued, the joints will last as long as the picture -- remember that the stretched canvas keeps the joints under tension, constantly pulling them back together. For the strongest possible glue joints when joining boards end grain to end grain, coat both surfaces of the boards with a light coating of glue and let them sit for 10-15 minutes. Then apply a heavier coat and clamp them together. The first coat prevents the wood from wicking up too much of the second coat and "starving" the joint.
With all good wishes,
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
I've made a number of oak picture frames. The trickiest art for me, other than shaping and gluing multiple pieces is making sure the rabbet is deep enough to hold what you want to put into the frame, and saving space for the picture fasteners.
For corners, I've always used miter joints, but have always re-enforced the corners with splines or dowels. Dowels get a little tricky because you have to assemble the whole frame at one time. Corner clamps and a belt clamp have been the most useful to me.
I have three oak mirror frames (assembled in South Texas - RH very high) and are still serving here in the Mojave Desert. Three quarters of the miter joints have separated a bit on the inside edges, but the splines have held them together nicely. The larger mirror weighs about 40 lbs. I've used plywood, hardboard and oak for splines. Can't tell any difference over 15 years. If you use wood splines make sure the grain runs crosswise from the joint.
For corners, I've always used miter joints, but have always re-enforced the corners with splines or dowels. Dowels get a little tricky because you have to assemble the whole frame at one time. Corner clamps and a belt clamp have been the most useful to me.
I have three oak mirror frames (assembled in South Texas - RH very high) and are still serving here in the Mojave Desert. Three quarters of the miter joints have separated a bit on the inside edges, but the splines have held them together nicely. The larger mirror weighs about 40 lbs. I've used plywood, hardboard and oak for splines. Can't tell any difference over 15 years. If you use wood splines make sure the grain runs crosswise from the joint.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- edflorence
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Idaho Panhandle
Jim...jimthej wrote: The sections are in a squared P shape.
Any suggestions on how do make the corners?
You've already got a couple of great replies but I thought you might like to hear my take on the question as well...Over the last 3 or 4 years I have built better than 3 dozen frames for my wife's art, using a molding profile nearly identical to the one in your illustration. These frames surround the art and do not have canvas holding the corners in compression, however, there is no evidence of the miters seperating. Nick's idea of pre-"sizing" the joint is how I do it as well, although honestly when I am working on a stack of frames I rarely wait as long as he recommends...probably should though. Anyway...if you are really worried about the corners you could also pin each one with small brads. I have done this on some of the frames and when I did I put the brads into the corner from the upper and lower edges of the frame. To date I can't see where the pinned joints are doing any better than the ones that are simply glued. I use Titebond II for just about everything that will live indoors.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Good Job! The frame will hold up forever! Can't wait for the photo!jimthej wrote:Looking through PTWFE found a jig for cutting in splines across the joint. Tried that. Worked. Used some walnut that I cut off from the corners of some blocks I'm going to turn into lamps for my wife. Almost to the finish stage. Will post a picture when done.

Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Picture frame finish
OK, got it finished. Looks OK until you get close. It was a learning experience. I know it isn't great art, but it is one of the last things mom will ever quilt and I thought that deserved display. Here are some pics:
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Jim in Bakersfield:D
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
jim, you are far too modest. It looks fantastic and deserves to be displayed in a prominent place of honor.
Maybe what you should do is make a matching frame and then attempt a quilt to go in it. I am almost absolutely positive that you will understand my point.
Maybe what you should do is make a matching frame and then attempt a quilt to go in it. I am almost absolutely positive that you will understand my point.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.