What did I buy, 500 or 510?
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Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
And if you don't make mistakes, how does anybody know you're working? No dishonor in errors, we own up and learn.
Anyway, got the speed control parts today.
The seller put a white grease (?) on the worm gear and quadrant teeth. I wonder if he knows more than I. I'm thinking that's a sawdust collector.
I'm thinking I should clean that off and put something else on... graphite?
Anyway, got the speed control parts today.
The seller put a white grease (?) on the worm gear and quadrant teeth. I wonder if he knows more than I. I'm thinking that's a sawdust collector.
I'm thinking I should clean that off and put something else on... graphite?
Give a man a fish and you enslave him, teach a man to fish and you set him free.
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
I used Wheel bearing grease, because that's what I had available. White grease would work. Some recommend graphite.
I chose not to use graphite because it is dirty and scatters when applying.
Grease collects sawdust alright, but it makes no difference because you need to lubricate the headstock every 10 hours of use and at that time you can wipe off the old grease and put on new.
If the headstock were to run 500 hours or so, then that is a different matter.
If maintenance is done as recommended, it makes no difference what lube is used on the porkchop.
Here's how I kept track of the hours. I figured how much time I ran the headstock per session - found the number of sessions per week and that told me how many weeks between lubrications. Put the start date on a piece masking tape and stick it to the machine.
I chose not to use graphite because it is dirty and scatters when applying.
Grease collects sawdust alright, but it makes no difference because you need to lubricate the headstock every 10 hours of use and at that time you can wipe off the old grease and put on new.
If the headstock were to run 500 hours or so, then that is a different matter.
If maintenance is done as recommended, it makes no difference what lube is used on the porkchop.
Here's how I kept track of the hours. I figured how much time I ran the headstock per session - found the number of sessions per week and that told me how many weeks between lubrications. Put the start date on a piece masking tape and stick it to the machine.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
I used Wheel bearing grease, because that's what I had available. White grease would work. Some recommend graphite.
I chose not to use graphite because it is dirty and scatters when applying.
Grease collects sawdust alright, but it makes no difference because you need to lubricate the headstock every 10 hours of use and at that time you can wipe off the old grease and put on new.
If the headstock were to run 500 hours or so, then that is a different matter.
If maintenance is done as recommended, it makes no difference what lube is used on the porkchop.
Here's how I kept track of the hours. I figured how much time I ran the headstock per session - found the number of sessions per week and that told me how many weeks between lubrications. Put the start date on a piece masking tape and stick it to the machine.
I chose not to use graphite because it is dirty and scatters when applying.
Grease collects sawdust alright, but it makes no difference because you need to lubricate the headstock every 10 hours of use and at that time you can wipe off the old grease and put on new.
If the headstock were to run 500 hours or so, then that is a different matter.
If maintenance is done as recommended, it makes no difference what lube is used on the porkchop.
Here's how I kept track of the hours. I figured how much time I ran the headstock per session - found the number of sessions per week and that told me how many weeks between lubrications. Put the start date on a piece masking tape and stick it to the machine.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
Good point, charlese, how bad could it get in 10 hours?charlese wrote: Grease collects sawdust alright, but it makes no difference because you need to lubricate the headstock every 10 hours of use and at that time you can wipe off the old grease and put on new.
I had already cleaned the grease off, and installed it and added a bit of graphite. I cranked it up, and moved it up to fast and down to slow a few times and it worked better than the old one.
Today, I put a spritz of white lithium grease on it and went up and down the speed again. Better still.
Interesting, though, the reason I'd bought the speed control was that I'd broken the knob, and I could get the whole thing for $30 more than just the knob... And, on this knob... The handle that sticks out... doesn't rotate.
But, still, I'm better off now. This one is much better. And I'll have the DIY upgrade soon. (knock wood)
Give a man a fish and you enslave him, teach a man to fish and you set him free.
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
Man, I swear the gremlins visit and take stuff. I took the jointer apart, cleaned it up, put it back together, all but the that cone shaped thingy. And now I have the speed control in and all's well, and I can't find the access cover :-(
Give a man a fish and you enslave him, teach a man to fish and you set him free.
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
I've got these little bins, and I put the bits i them... but still...
Although, I did find the access cover ;-)
Although, I did find the access cover ;-)
Give a man a fish and you enslave him, teach a man to fish and you set him free.
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
My "new" speed control is in. I can up and down with, what seems to be, appropriate ease. Going up, it stops at "fast" and going down, it stops at "slow". Feelin' real good.
I discovered "Digital Laser Photo Tachometer Non Contact Tester" for under $14, with free shipping. Didn't think they were that expensive. Bought one, got it today.
Using the sanding disk, I measured the RPM. On fast, it's about 5700. Uh, oops. Isn't it supposed to be about 5200?
I tried again, this time watching the display as I sped up, and I hit about 5200 at "L".
My first thought is that I can screw in the stop screw (the axle for the idle gear in the speed control that stops the pork chop quadrant) so it stops at "L"... shift the dial so that "L" becomes "fast"... but then... going down, wouldn't it stop well before "slow"? So that's not good.
Then I thought, why not just measure the RPM at each letter, and make a chart? So if I need a particular RPM, I check my chart and use the appropriate letter.
Or... screw it. Approximate the speed, if it's lugging with whatever I'm cutting, speed up. If it's burning, slow down.
Or ask the most wonderful and knowledgeable folks on the forum for their input.
Thanks in advance.
I discovered "Digital Laser Photo Tachometer Non Contact Tester" for under $14, with free shipping. Didn't think they were that expensive. Bought one, got it today.
Using the sanding disk, I measured the RPM. On fast, it's about 5700. Uh, oops. Isn't it supposed to be about 5200?
I tried again, this time watching the display as I sped up, and I hit about 5200 at "L".
My first thought is that I can screw in the stop screw (the axle for the idle gear in the speed control that stops the pork chop quadrant) so it stops at "L"... shift the dial so that "L" becomes "fast"... but then... going down, wouldn't it stop well before "slow"? So that's not good.
Then I thought, why not just measure the RPM at each letter, and make a chart? So if I need a particular RPM, I check my chart and use the appropriate letter.
Or... screw it. Approximate the speed, if it's lugging with whatever I'm cutting, speed up. If it's burning, slow down.
Or ask the most wonderful and knowledgeable folks on the forum for their input.
Thanks in advance.
Give a man a fish and you enslave him, teach a man to fish and you set him free.
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
I'll add, I know what stops it at fast, the stop screw. But what stops it at slow?
Give a man a fish and you enslave him, teach a man to fish and you set him free.
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
The control sheave seating against the idler sheave most times. The width and length of the motor belt is a major factor in how low you can adjust the slowest speed. The motor belt can some times be forced down to touching the motor shaft between the fan and floating sheaves however it is not recommended you force it this low as the belt may get hung below the tips of the motor sheaves and jam when the motor is stopped.Cornell wrote:I'll add, I know what stops it at fast, the stop screw. But what stops it at slow?
Re: What did I buy, 500 or 510?
Sounds like there isn't really an adjustment for slow. When the sheaves seat, that's it. It is what it is.
I just finished messing about a bit. I did find that I could get below "Slow", so I adjusted the dial, so as far down as it goes is "Slow". Then I tried to set the stop screw for fast. Without success. If I dial it up to "Fast", I can't get the knob off. If I take the knob off before then and turn the shaft manually, the dial doesn't turn, so I don't know when it reads "Fast".
I could take it up to about "W", take the knob off, turn the screw in until it stops and turn it out X turns, but I don't know what X is. And trial and error might take a long time... take the knob off, turn the screw, put the knob on, crank up to "Fast" or until it stops, repeat until it stops at "Fast". Could be many repetitions.
Anybody know X ?
I'm not too concerned about not hitting the stop at "Fast", though, as that's way up there in "Shaper" land, and I don't expect to go there. I'll be stopping before it does.
Anyway, "Slow" is about 730 RPM, 5200 RPM is about "V" and "Fast" is about 5600.
I just finished messing about a bit. I did find that I could get below "Slow", so I adjusted the dial, so as far down as it goes is "Slow". Then I tried to set the stop screw for fast. Without success. If I dial it up to "Fast", I can't get the knob off. If I take the knob off before then and turn the shaft manually, the dial doesn't turn, so I don't know when it reads "Fast".
I could take it up to about "W", take the knob off, turn the screw in until it stops and turn it out X turns, but I don't know what X is. And trial and error might take a long time... take the knob off, turn the screw, put the knob on, crank up to "Fast" or until it stops, repeat until it stops at "Fast". Could be many repetitions.
Anybody know X ?
I'm not too concerned about not hitting the stop at "Fast", though, as that's way up there in "Shaper" land, and I don't expect to go there. I'll be stopping before it does.
Anyway, "Slow" is about 730 RPM, 5200 RPM is about "V" and "Fast" is about 5600.
Give a man a fish and you enslave him, teach a man to fish and you set him free.
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)
Shopsmith Mark V, 510, Jointer, Planer and Bandsaw (SN 127932, Dec 1986, upgraded to aluminum table)