A tale of two molders

[algale]

Based on those photos I'd be hesitant to switch the knives between these two heads. The knife from the Shopsmith head shows a pronounced ball-shaped depression which makes sense since that head uses a ball to center and capture the knife blade. The older Magna head blade has not nearly as pronounced a depression, which makes sense if as JPG says the Magna head used a set screw directly on the blade.

[ibskot]

I will definitely be looking at this when I get home tonight.

[JPG]

More 'kicks.

Early aluminum and steel made until recently.

molder arbors 1.jpg (553.39 KiB) Viewed 3608 times

The aluminum one is I think the same as the magna one in Ibskot's post above. <<<<<< NOPE!!! See below.


Knife retaining screws etc.

molder arbors 2 screws.jpg (671.58 KiB) Viewed 3608 times

The ss version has the special cupped screw that mates with the ball bearing.

The aluminum one also has a special screw. The under side on the cap screw head is beveled, not square.

The earlier post by Ibskot shows better the 'notch' that the cap screw engages to secure the knife.

I think either knife version will work with either arbor version. They both locate the knives securely in the bottom of the arbor slot. The bevel on the oldest version screw does appear to mate with the beveled hole in the 'new(not newest)' version knife.

One detail, the aluminum arbor centers the knives on the arbor, but the newer(not the newest/current) one off sets them slightly.

The knives are 1/8" thick(+-).

EDIT - Ibskot's 'Magna' version is different from the alumunum one.

[ibskot]

JPG, excellent.

[JPG]

JPG, excellent.

Review revealed to me your Magna version is different from my aluminum version.

What do the Magna version retaining screws look like?
Is there a ball bearing?? What is the shape of the knife end of the screw.

[ibskot]

I am at work but i will look tonight.

[billmayo]

I used the molding head on the left with set screws and ball bearings. I still have bad thoughts from using the molder head to make door, window and baseboard trim for a 1000 sq ft home addition many years ago. I used several finger boards, 2 sets of hold downs and several long push sticks. I made wheelbarrow loads of shavings from this action. I used several passes to get to the finish product due to knife width and the large amount of shavings that it can generate. I believe I use Douglas fir for the wood, no knots. It was a dangerous looking way to make nice looking trim. Those open knives spinning really cuts the wood and any thing else that would get too close to them.

[JPG]

I used the molding head on the left with set screws and ball bearings. I still have bad thoughts from using the molder head to make door, window and baseboard trim for a 1000 sq ft home addition many years ago. I used several finger boards, 2 sets of hold downs and several long push sticks. I made wheelbarrow loads of shavings from this action. I used several passes to get to the finish product due to knife width and the large amount of shavings that it can generate. I believe I use Douglas fir for the wood, no knots. It was a dangerous looking way to make nice looking trim. Those open knives spinning really cuts the wood and any thing else that would get too close to them.

No question it is a scary operation and requires caution and attention.

Today a router is more rational since they are available.

But when one has the molder and knives, . . .

[ibskot]

For your perusal...

[JPG]

So, there be 4 versions(at least).