conical sanding.disc

[tdubnik]

I've only used my conical disk for sharpening plane and jointer blades. I have been unsuccessful jointing the edge of boards. The edges I have sanded are usually not at right angles to the faces.

The problem I had was getting the angle of the table perfectly at right angles to the slope of the disk. I was only off by maybe a half degree, but enough that the jointed boards would not glue up with flat faces, or a bad (partly open) joint.

Maybe I could have flipped one of the boards to make a good joint, but then would have lost the chosen face grain.

If you know this is the case you could have sanded one board face side up and the next board face side down and then when you flipped the good side would be up on both.

[BuckeyeDennis]

To joint with the conical disk sander requires some tedious setup but it can be done. Charlese, I just know you were closer than a half of a degree.

Maybe you need a couple digital gauges. It is all about "precision".

I haven't yet needed to joint with my conical disc sander (but I have used it to smooth edges), so what follows is speculation.

When I set the fence on my jointer to 90 degrees, I always use a square, set between my infeed table and the fence. With the conical disc sander, if I use a square to set the table tilt relative to the disc, would I not sand accurate 90-degree edges on the workpiece?

[dusty]

To joint with the conical disk sander requires some tedious setup but it can be done. Charlese, I just know you were closer than a half of a degree.

Maybe you need a couple digital gauges. It is all about "precision".

Thanks, Dusty! However I feel there are already enough "gauges" in my shop. I'll just remain happy with jointing on the jointer and also "Gang jointing" in the thickness planer.

I sorta knew that, Charlese. That is why I directed my comment at you.

In reality, I am content with a glue line. I don't build anything where a visible glue line detracts from the end product. If I was building heirlooms or fine furniture that might be different.

I do get a bit picky with end joints. I really like for my corner joints to be closed (no gaps).

[JPG]

To joint with the conical disk sander requires some tedious setup but it can be done. Charlese, I just know you were closer than a half of a degree.

Maybe you need a couple digital gauges. It is all about "precision".

I haven't yet needed to joint with my conical disc sander (but I have used it to smooth edges), so what follows is speculation.

When I set the fence on my jointer to 90 degrees, I always use a square, set between my infeed table and the fence. With the conical disc sander, if I use a square to set the table tilt relative to the disc, would I not sand accurate 90-degree edges on the workpiece?

I think it would be quite close, however cast iron provides better reference surfaces than sandpaper . Also the cone major axis may not be coincident with the arbor(run out).

[charlese]

I've only used my conical disk for sharpening plane and jointer blades. I have been unsuccessful jointing the edge of boards. The edges I have sanded are usually not at right angles to the faces.

The problem I had was getting the angle of the table perfectly at right angles to the slope of the disk. I was only off by maybe a half degree, but enough that the jointed boards would not glue up with flat faces, or a bad (partly open) joint.

Maybe I could have flipped one of the boards to make a good joint, but then would have lost the chosen face grain.

If you know this is the case you could have sanded one board face side up and the next board face side down and then when you flipped the good side would be up on both.

I was well aware of that possibility. This was/is a notice in the post you quoted - now in blue.

There have been times where face grain would not be a strong consideration, but for me jointer is easier (and more accurate) than the sander.