Man, these 10er's are HEAVY! New beast in the stable.

[fitzhugh]

I've wanted a 10er since I heard of them but had not seen the right deal. Last week I cleaned my shop as I began installing a dust collector, so suddenly I had room to spare [read: "stand"]. I saw an ad on cl for a 10er, seller's father was original owner, looked complete and in good shape, had speed control and many original little boxes of parts. It's in great shape as it turns out... Needs at least one bearing (I'll likely replace them all), very little rust except on the exposed ends of the tubes where the tailstock goes. I have not gone through it enough to want to run it yet but I have a motor I can use if this one is somehow doa, though po says it runs and it feels nice. Includes a while lot of smaller components like arbors, Jacobs Chuck (& key) shaper cutters, morticing chisel setup, tiny little 10(?) inch sanding disk, but it also has a flex shaft and a jigsaw. He included a black and Decker r.a.s. for free, may fix up: $125... But it sure is an odd color:

scaled_image(1).jpg (443.59 KiB) Viewed 2895 times

scaled_image.jpg (417.47 KiB) Viewed 2895 times

It is either an original paint job or a very professionally done job, I suspect the latter.
SN er18668
Any suggestions on dating it?

[jsburger]

Good price and looks to be in good shape. The speed changer is worth more then what you paid for the whole machine.

Color,yuck!!!! It is not original

[rjent]

You definitely got your money's worth on that. Nice find. Like John said, the speed changer is worth what you paid.

I am using (daily) my 10ER based 36 inch drum sander creation that I am just about to get photogenic. I use it all the time. I used the 10ER because of the screw table raiser. Lots of control. Knowing you, you can take my idea a step further.....

[JPG]

Color original - PO original choice.

Yucky? A matter of opinion(I sorta like it).

A bargain fer sure!!!!

[fitzhugh]

Wow, I am TERRIBLE at this interweb thing (even though I program for a living)... I seem to always get distracted and forget to hit post when I write on my phone. In this case I did so twice.

So....

I go back and forth on the color. As a color for a machine I like it. Looks better in person (camera adds 10lbs, etc...) Now, I'm colorblind, but those who are not have all liked the color. However, for a machine that is a Shopsmith it looks wrong. I think I'll repaint it somewhere down the road. Way down the road, most likely.
I've got so much to do before I even start working on it, other projects in the shop. I finally ordered all the duct, hoses, and other components for my dust collection install yesterday, for example.

It seems stuck on the way tubes though I've barely tried at all. The lock is removed and the tubes are not rusty shouldn't take much. I can feel the pulley side bearing needs replacing right away diet to its extra crunchy filling. Others probably as well. There is a lot of old old grease on the bushings of bearings in the speed control, not yet sure how to best clean that up.

It is so much harder to find information on the yahoo group. There must be a lot of information there but forums are much easier to use.

[jsburger]

Color original - PO original choice.

Yucky? A matter of opinion(I sorta like it).

A bargain fer sure!!!!

Yucky! Yes that is my opinion. You are welcome to yours.

Yes, a bargain for sure.

[fitzhugh]

Out of consideration for the color sensitive I will adjust the color in Photoshop before posting any further pics. Don't want to give anyone nightmares (line the one I had last night after reading about giant isopods but not only giant isopods but also that crackers made from them are selling like hotcakes in Japan. ICK. Crackers made from a pill bug larger than a small cat. Ah, never mind. )

So,I was just looking over your thread describing your 10er restore. What options are good for removing the paint if one doesn't have access to s media blaster? I know electrolysic rust removal stripped the paint right off the Mk V legs I treated... Was that just poor adhesion or is it worth a try? I'd just test it except someone stole my battery charger.

Also, what about painting? I don't have any sort of spray system or even a compressor to run one. Can I get decent results from a can of I put in the time and effort?

Any suggestions appreciated!

[JPG]

Out of consideration for the color sensitive I will adjust the color in Photoshop before posting any further pics. Don't want to give anyone nightmares (line the one I had last night after reading about giant isopods but not only giant isopods but also that crackers made from them are selling like hotcakes in Japan. ICK. Crackers made from a pill bug larger than a small cat. Ah, never mind. )

So,I was just looking over your thread describing your 10er restore. What options are good for removing the paint if one doesn't have access to s media blaster? I know electrolysic rust removal stripped the paint right off the Mk V legs I treated... Was that just poor adhesion or is it worth a try? I'd just test it except someone stole my battery charger.

Also, what about painting? I don't have any sort of spray system or even a compressor to run one. Can I get decent results from a can of I put in the time and effort?

Any suggestions appreciated!

IIRC, MickyD 'discovered' the paint removal property of electrolysis when dumping the end of his red 10er into the electrolysis tub in an effort to get the headstock off the rusted way tubes. The paint on the headstock was removed.

I assume my rattle can painting is 'decent'. However results are variable.

[jsburger]

Out of consideration for the color sensitive I will adjust the color in Photoshop before posting any further pics. Don't want to give anyone nightmares (line the one I had last night after reading about giant isopods but not only giant isopods but also that crackers made from them are selling like hotcakes in Japan. ICK. Crackers made from a pill bug larger than a small cat. Ah, never mind. )

So,I was just looking over your thread describing your 10er restore. What options are good for removing the paint if one doesn't have access to s media blaster? I know electrolysic rust removal stripped the paint right off the Mk V legs I treated... Was that just poor adhesion or is it worth a try? I'd just test it except someone stole my battery charger.

Also, what about painting? I don't have any sort of spray system or even a compressor to run one. Can I get decent results from a can of I put in the time and effort?

Any suggestions appreciated!

I guess you are responding to my post? As for paint removal, I don't have any suggestions since I media blast everything.

As far as painting, you don't need a spray system. The paint I use is recommended by Skip Campbell(the 10ER guru). It is Krylon Industrial Tough Coat. The primer is number 340 Grey and the top coat is number 1625 Blue/Grey. It comes in a normal spray can. It is a little tough to find. The big box stores don't carry it. I buy it from MSC Industrial on line.

[skou]

Oh, that tiny "10? inch" sanding disc? I wish I still had the 8 inch disc, I lost in the fire.
Price 8X12 sandpaper, versus 12 inch discs, and you'll see what I mean.

Oh, about the color, it is kind of "interesting!" But, I LIKE the red ends on ALL the
control handles.

Cleaning off the way tubes/headstock/carriage/tailstock interfaces. Use a GOOD
penetrating oil, (I've heard a mixture of kerosene and ATF works REAL good) and
let it sit for a few days. Also, if the hinge is good, put it in drill-press mode, but
block up the stuff so it won't fall, or hurt something if/when it does.

$125 for the whole rig? You REALLY need to send us other members some goodies!
My big brother needs a speedchanger. (Hint-hint) Preferably free.

steve