Cutting Thick Hardwood

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algale
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by algale »

Adwin02 wrote:Under the table there are four bolts that are suppose to be adjustable to align table, But I can't see how, they are just strait bolts.
The bolts pass through holes in the trunnions that are slightly larger than the bolts themselves. Thus, loosening the bolts allows you to twist the table and align its miter slots to the blade and then the fence to the miter slots. Try it. It works.
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Bruce
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by Bruce »

Adwin02 wrote:Under the table there are four bolts that are suppose to be adjustable to align table, But I can't see how, they are just strait bolts.
When loosened, there should be enough play to allow you to wiggle it into alignment. Keep the bolts snug enough that it takes a little bump to move the table.
tdorey
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by tdorey »

I measured tonight. With the miter slide with Allen key on saw blade. It ended up being 0.026s out at the top.
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JPG
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by JPG »

tdorey wrote:I measured tonight. With the miter slide with Allen key on saw blade. It ended up being 0.026s out at the top.
"TOP" makes no sense. You should be comparing to the same spot(blade tooth tip) on the blade at front vs rear with the blade fully raised. Yes the blade need be rotated to locate the spot at front and rear.

If there is a difference between top of blade and points below, that is a table tilt issue(assuming a flat blade with constant thickness).
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tdorey
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by tdorey »

Yes. Top was a bad choice of words. I meant rear. I marked a tooth with liquid paper rotated to rear and measured. Got that number.

Thanks for input. I will try allign over weekend.
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skou
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by skou »

Those "strai(gh)t bolts attach 2 pieces with larger holes in them.

The table is adjustable, once the bolts are loose.

As I'm not an expert on the Mk5-V, I'll let someone else fill you in.

Yes, you can align the sanding disc to the table, and (if I'm not
mistaken) this is the usual procedure on a Mark series Shopsmith.
(It is on the Model 10 stuff.)

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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dusty
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by dusty »

tdorey wrote:Yes. Top was a bad choice of words. I meant rear. I marked a tooth with liquid paper rotated to rear and measured. Got that number.

Thanks for input. I will try allign over weekend.
The method that you are using now will work. The degree of accuracy will be dependent on just how persistent you are you get it "dead on". But then "dead on" can be defined in different ways. I consider +- .005" to be very close and will certainly work for what most of us do with a Mark V.

When making your adjustments - make certain that all five of the locks are secure and that the table is perpendicular to the blade (0 table tilt).

I do my adjustments with all four trunnion bolts finger tight. When I feel that the table is properly positioned, I very carefully tighten the two trunnion bolts that can be accessed without tilting the table. I tighten one bolt just a little and then the other and then back to the first....... Watch the table while doing this because it will tend to move.

When done, check for alignment with whatever method you deem appropriate. If not as accurate as you want, loosen the bolts and "do it again".

Mine right now measures .003" at the alignment tooth when rotated to both the front and rear positions. Maybe it could be closer but why?
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dusty
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by dusty »

My method for alignment verification.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=10305

Now one must make certain that the table is accurately aligned before making this ZCI or the error will simply be transported.

When the ZCI is slide down on the blade to the table, the ZCI should settle right into the cutout (if the table is aligned to the blade). If not, loosen the trunnions and relocate the table until it does.
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tdorey
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by tdorey »

Ok. Here is update.

I lined up best I could. Started and the breaker blew. Looked at manual for possible issues. Looked At belt etc. all looked ok.

I then thought I should oil as I just purchased and didn't know the history. Oiled the two spots the manual said. Slowly moved the parts and I could tell it was making a big difference.

Turned it on. Tried a few cuts and now seems to be working perfectly.

Thanks for all the input and help.

As a new user I will likely have more question.
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Re: Cutting Thick Hardwood

Post by wa2crk »

I await your additional questions.
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