A Slow Boat To Nowhere

[charlese]

I used the jig to cut the first two scarfs, which I dry fit to check the fit. Looks pretty good. There's about 6.125 inches of joint over the .75 inch width of the joint, so 8:1, which I read was sufficient (someone speak up if they think that's too short?).

Tomorrow I'll mix up some epoxy and glue 'em up.

WOW! 8:1 is definitely not too short! WoW again! I haven't even thought of making scarf joints in the last decade or two! Scarfs are a real neat solution for making longer length from short ones. I had completely forgot about them.

CONGRATULATIONS ON THAT JIG!!! And your work BTW, would have taken me a day or so to figure that out!

The last time I used scarfs was to construct a laminated wood beam to support the upstairs I was building. The Douglas fir beam made it possible to make a 25 foot long, 8 foot wide walk in closet for my wife. No longer live in that home. The slope on those scarfs were 10:1. Just about the same as 8:1. Over kill? Don't know!

[algale]

Paul or anyone else who is an epoxy expert -- I'm planning on adding mirco-fibers to the epoxy to make up the glue for the gunwales. What kind of consistency/thicknes am I looking for in the mixture? Thanks in advance.

[shipwright]

Just thick enough to keep it from running Al.
Apply it with a "pukemouse". It will save a lot of cleanup.
To see what a pukemouse is, check out this blog about epoxy handling.

http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/26382

[algale]

Thanks, Paul. I've read the pukemouse blog before, but will re-read. Some of the canoe building website recommend first painting the joint with unthickened epoxy to get it to soak in before applying the thickened stuff. Any thoughts on that wisdom?

[JPG]

This jig took longer to put together and was not made for cutting scarfs, but, it would do so.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 14024.html

A different approach.

[algale]

Well, I learned something.

I had the clever idea to put some Saran wrap under and over the scarf joint so the epoxy wouldn't get all over the piece of aluminum angle I was using to align and clamp the joint to.

Well, it protected the aluminum angle alright, but it created problems.

One, I couldn't get under and around the joint to clear off the excess epoxy (it was probably too runny -- another learning experience).

Then it melted and stuck to the Saran.

Here's a couple of photos of the mess (temporarily clamped to the canoe).

IMG_2536.JPG (257.46 KiB) Viewed 4666 times

IMG_2536.JPG (257.46 KiB) Viewed 4666 times

But, the joint seems like it is otherwise ok.

Now I need to decide whether to sand down the mess or, since I have extra length, just cut out the offending section and start over.

One thing is for sure, I need to devise a clamping jig that leaves the joint exposed on all sides so I can clean it up!

[JPG]

Bench chisel to remove stuck/loose, then sand.

You WERE going to sand it anyway.

Worth a try.

[algale]

Bench chisel to remove stuck/loose, then sand.

You WERE going to sand it anyway.

Worth a try.

Great advice, JPG! I think I've got it!

IMG_2539.JPG (335.95 KiB) Viewed 4643 times

Now, about a gluing jig so I don't have to go through that three more times...

[JPG]

So, what material does epoxy NOT adhere to? Teflon HDPE nylon ???

[algale]

So, what material does epoxy NOT adhere to? Teflon HDPE nylon ???

It has popped out of various plastic mixing containers (leaves a perfect mold of the cup) and the plastic spreaders used to wet out the fiberglass. Which is why I figured the Saran Wrap would not give me a problem.

I don't know if the micro fibers are what made it stickier or if Saran Wrap is just subject to getting stuck in it.