A Slow Boat To Nowhere
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Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
First gunwale screwed on, initial leveling (belt sanding) done, and screw holes filled with contrasting maple plugs. Obviously, these will be cut close to flush and sanded smooth.
W.L. Fuller makes great countersinks and matching plug cutters if you are in the market.
W.L. Fuller makes great countersinks and matching plug cutters if you are in the market.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- rjent
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Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
A truly admirable effort algale. I am looking forward (as i am sure you are as well LOL) to seeing this work of art finished ....algale wrote:First gunwale screwed on, initial leveling (belt sanding) done, and screw holes filled with contrasting maple plugs. Obviously, these will be cut close to flush and sanded smooth.
W.L. Fuller makes great countersinks and matching plug cutters if you are in the market.

Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
Thanks! When you have only a couple of hours a weekend to work on a project like this and when everything is a first time doing it, the project takes soooo looong.rjent wrote:A truly admirable effort algale. I am looking forward (as i am sure you are as well LOL) to seeing this work of art finished ....algale wrote:First gunwale screwed on, initial leveling (belt sanding) done, and screw holes filled with contrasting maple plugs. Obviously, these will be cut close to flush and sanded smooth.
W.L. Fuller makes great countersinks and matching plug cutters if you are in the market.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- shipwright
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Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
True, but it will be sooooo nice!
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
- rjent
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- Posts: 2121
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
- Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico
Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
And you soooooo want to get it right .... 

Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
If anyone else builds one of these, here's a couple of stupid things to avoid while doing the gunwales to avoid extra work.
Do not bother sealing the top or the outer side of the outer gunwale or the top of the inner gunwale before putting them on. For obvious reasons, these will all get sanded and you will just need to re-seal them. My canoe book said to finish three sides. Dumb (at least with respect to the outer gunwale). Do seal the bottom sides of both gunwales and the sides that attach to the hull.
Don't ease the edges of the gunwales before putting them on, as I did, or if you do, do not ease the edges that go against to the canoe's hull. This creates a thick joint at the gunwales/hull interface and you will just want to sand down below the easing to get more of a knife edge. This one I can't blame on my book; it was my very own dumb idea! Nothing fatal, fortunately. Just time wasted.
Do not bother sealing the top or the outer side of the outer gunwale or the top of the inner gunwale before putting them on. For obvious reasons, these will all get sanded and you will just need to re-seal them. My canoe book said to finish three sides. Dumb (at least with respect to the outer gunwale). Do seal the bottom sides of both gunwales and the sides that attach to the hull.
Don't ease the edges of the gunwales before putting them on, as I did, or if you do, do not ease the edges that go against to the canoe's hull. This creates a thick joint at the gunwales/hull interface and you will just want to sand down below the easing to get more of a knife edge. This one I can't blame on my book; it was my very own dumb idea! Nothing fatal, fortunately. Just time wasted.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- edflorence
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- Location: Idaho Panhandle
Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
The maple plugs is a great idea...that will look very nice. Am really enjoying watching this boat come together.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
Anticipating a little challenge and soliciting advice. The canoe design I'm building has quite a bit of "tumblehome" in the middle of the canoe -- meaning in cross section the sides curve inwards at the top. This means the gunwales slope inwards from the outer gunwale to the inner gunwale.
It looks great; however, it creates a challenge for attaching the center thwart/yoke. The center thwart/yoke goes beneath the inner gunwales and is bolted through the gunwale. But, with the gunwales sloping if I do nothing to the thwart/yoke it will only make contact at the outer edge of the gunwale and there will be a large gap.
How do I measure the angle I need to cut out of the thwart/yoke so that it makes solid contact with the inner gunwale and how do I make that cut?
The photo shows the thwart resting on top of the gunwale but should give you an idea of the problem when the thwart is placed below.
It looks great; however, it creates a challenge for attaching the center thwart/yoke. The center thwart/yoke goes beneath the inner gunwales and is bolted through the gunwale. But, with the gunwales sloping if I do nothing to the thwart/yoke it will only make contact at the outer edge of the gunwale and there will be a large gap.
How do I measure the angle I need to cut out of the thwart/yoke so that it makes solid contact with the inner gunwale and how do I make that cut?
The photo shows the thwart resting on top of the gunwale but should give you an idea of the problem when the thwart is placed below.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- shipwright
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- Posts: 1165
- Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:28 pm
- Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
- Contact:
Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
Slip a square piece (gunwale scrap) up under the gunwale and Mark the end of it with a stick in the place the thwart will go. That will give you the angle. Then I would just rip that piece (one each side) on the line just marked and glue (bed) it in place leaving you a flat mating surface for the thwart.
Easy peasy. :-)
Paul
Easy peasy. :-)
Paul
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
Re: A Slow Boat To Nowhere
Thanks, Paul. That sounds like the way to go!shipwright wrote:Slip a square piece (gunwale scrap) up under the gunwale and Mark the end of it with a stick in the place the thwart will go. That will give you the angle. Then I would just rip that piece (one each side) on the line just marked and glue (bed) it in place leaving you a flat mating surface for the thwart.
Easy peasy. :-)
Paul
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!