ShopSmith Table Saw scale and indicator

[h2oboy]

I was recently given a Shopsmith 510 with lots of goodies and accessories. Needless to say, I'm very happy and my workshop is filling up nicely. The one tool I've not used is the table saw mostly because it doesn't have a fixed scale or indicator on the sliding rip fence like my dedicated 10" table saw has. It has the original tube type extensions and tables. That 10" saw is on the fritz and I'll need to use the Shopsmith for an upcoming project. Dragging out a tape measure for every cut would be a pain and accuracy will suffer for sure. Am I missing a piece of hardware? How do other users deal with this issue? I can't seem to find any video or manuals that address this. I hope there is an easy solution. Thanks for any help you can offer.

[JPG]

Sorry to say a rail scale is not to be had for a 510.

A 'workaround' is a thin 'ruler' positioned under the fence to measure the 'tooth' to fence dimension.(removed prior to actual cutting)

A compromise might be to mark the rail, but remember the blade is 'adjustable' by virtue of the quill advance as well as the positioning of the carriage(hence the table/rail).*

I for one have never trusted those scales when accuracy matters.

* Add blade changes to the list.

[benush26]

For accurate cutting widths, the quill is your friend!

If you have a folding wooden rule, so much the better since it can set on the table while you micro adjust. A tape measure will work but I find then unwieldy for this use, but then that is just me!

Set and lock the fence to about where you want the cut, a wee bit wider (less than 3/8") is great, open the ruler, unless it is already open because you used it for initially setting the fence. Put the zero end against the fence and set the ruler on the table just touching the blade. Loosen the quill lock and move the blade to your right until the blade tooth is precisely where you want, then lock the quill.

You can use a metal rule it it is long enough and get good results, but I find the folding ruler much easier to work with for things like this because you can set it on its side or flat, which ever is easiest to see the markings.

Be well,
Ben

[algale]

Metal rule under the fence. This thread shows it on a 520 but the same thing should work on a 510.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... post138615

[reible]

The 520 has the rules by way of a magnetic strip and corresponding rules which allow one to zero the rule then adjust the location of the rip fence accordingly. I have that system but I often don't use it because there are other ways that seem to be faster and more accurate. So if that is something you really want you could upgrade to the 520 system. Of course when you look at the price of that upgrade it is unlikely you will want to upgrade just for the scales.

I use magic transparent tape and mark both edges of the blade on the tape on the table by way of a trial cut. The tape can stay on for long periods without needing to be replaced. As was mentioned blade changes and tweaking the cut by way of quill adjustment means new tape. Like wise major tune-up can effect the blade location in relationship to the table.

Just keep in mind that what ever option you chose it soon can become second nature and if it a good solution it will provide the accuracy that you need/want with minimal extra effort.

No matter how I measure it is always a good idea if you can to make a trial cut and make sure the work piece is the size you want before making the cuts on the expensive wood. I find the most of the time my cuts are accurate but I occasionally even I slip up and have to make an additional adjustment, I mean even 99.999% is not always.

I have not seen anyone come up with at good scale system for the 510 but perhaps someone here has and they will post it. The same is true with the older 500's and 10ER's.

Ed

[h2oboy]

Thanks everyone. I really like the idea of sliding a ruler under the fence. I stopped at Home Depot after work this afternoon. All the item slots were occupied but none of the rulers with any decent length were what I thought were thin enough. I did buy a 48" for general shop use and its way too thick. guess I'll need to shop for a thinner brand. Thanks again.

[h2oboy]

Thanks everyone. I really like the idea of sliding a ruler under the fence. I stopped at Home Depot after work this afternoon. All the item slots were occupied but none of the rulers with any decent length were what I thought were thin enough. I did buy a 48" for general shop use and its way too thick. guess I'll need to shop for a thinner brand. Thanks again.

[ianw]

I think this idea looks nice and it's easy to adapt to 510

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/woodw ... 15588.html

[dusty]

You guys are not thinking out of the box. There is a very simple solution to this problem. At least I think it is simple and I think I understand "the problem". You need (want) a method whereby you can measure the distance from the blade to the face of the rip fence while allowing you to move the rip fence.

If that is the problem, is this a possible solution? (You'll have to use your imagination a little. I am presently unable to go to the shop for this. Imagine that what you see here is your 510 rip fence setting on your Mark 5 Main Table).

The last two images show what needs to be done to the rip fence so that a steel ruler will follow as it is moved back and forth on the Main Table.

I used the magnets that I had on hand. Others may be more appropriate. The magnets would have to be affixed to the underside of the rip fence in the proper location(s) and the steel rule kept available (that would be my problem).

The teeth on the saw blade would be your pointer.

Usable on either side of the rip fence.

I use a 6" rule most of the time but a 12" or 18" ruler will also work. The limiting factors are the strength of the magnets. and the weight of the ruler.

[Bruce]

Good idea, Dusty. I guess you would have to glue the magnets to the fence.