Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
Old-timers will remember that before CAD computer programs came along, people used to draw plans and designs using pencils and drafting instruments. One of the most important of these instruments was the T-Square or drafting square. These squares make perfect router guides for use when you need grooves or dadoes that are perpendicular to an edge. Go to an art or drafting supply store and buy a T-Square with a WOODEN T at the top and a clear plastic edge. Install a 3/4" straight bit in your router. Lay your square on a piece of scrap plywood, position the edge of your router's base against the plastic edge and use this router set-up to clip off one side of the T top. Change to a 3/8" straight bit and follow the same procedure, clipping-of the opposite side of your T. Mark the T sides as 3/8" and 3/4". The next time you need to cut a 3/8" or 3/4" groove or dado with your hand-held router, simply reach for your clipped T-Square, line-up the clipped end of the appropriate side with your cut line, and go to work.
I got the concept but cant see it, I know I am missing something on my end.
JPG, please draw me a pic, your so good at that!!!
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
The clipped ends will equal the distance from the t square edge(and router base edge) to the router bit.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Still dont get it JPG, got a drawing? I do better visually with some things, a pic is better then a 1000 words, I think.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
ERLover wrote:Still dont get it JPG, got a drawing? I do better visually with some things, a pic is better then a 1000 words, I think.
Hey! They are YOUR words.
Or were you plagiarizing someone?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The end result will look like this but I would not use a t-square for this. A t-square is to light weight and not thick enough. How ever you can make one out of wood and I have done that. If I can locate it I will take a picture of it. For now the sketch will have to do.
ScreenHunter_77 Dec. 18 19.15.jpg (20.88 KiB) Viewed 4636 times
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Thanks Ed, got it now, and yes I can make a better thing for it, plus have you priced T squares lately??? I made one out of a 36 inch aluminum ruler and mimicked the wood piece and mounted it together for a third the price.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
I've added a work piece so it is more clear how this works. You mark where you want your cuts then align with the cut with the location and route. Move to the next location etc etc. You do have to clamp the jig in place and it only works with a router that has a centered base plate and only for that router...... so if you have saw 3 different router then you could will need three of these each marked with which router it is for.
ScreenHunter_78 Dec. 18 20.10.jpg (56 KiB) Viewed 4604 times
If you cut off the end with a through route then you loose the second location mark but sure it would work.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]