JPG wrote:If there is so much wax 'left', why does it need it?
A facetious way of saying there is not likely much wax left anyway.
Besides shine is not the objective - slick, rust proof is.
Polishing helps the slick at the expense of anti oxidation properties.
Right om JPG.
This is not rocket science. Just wax whatever, let it dry for 15 minutes and wipe it down with a clean cotton cloth or the last one you used or a paper towel or what ever. I have a piece of T shirt that I have been using for 20 plus years. It lives in my wax can.
It is just wax. If you wax the way tubes and slide the head stock and carriage across them for 6 months maybe the wax will be mostly removed.
So just reapply the wax. I would never clean the way tubes after I have cleaned/polished and waxed them. SS has never said that as far as I know.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
ERLover wrote:Some here and me on the raw steel and cast iron use an oil based paint thinner, I am going to miss spell it Penitrol?? then wax. I shellac my raw steel and cast iron too, then wax.
Here is the site. and info for raw metal and aluminum http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions
It is a PAINT additive. Please explain how it prevents rust on cast iron.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
ERLover wrote:Some here and me on the raw steel and cast iron use an oil based paint thinner, I am going to miss spell it Penitrol?? then wax. I shellac my raw steel and cast iron too, then wax.
Here is the site. and info for raw metal and aluminum http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions
It is a PAINT additive. Please explain how it prevents rust on cast iron.
I have been using Penetrol for many years to prevent rust on metal and iron parts. I find it is good for close to a year before reapplying again. I did not wax afterwards. I will try that next. I put a few metal parts outside years ago after wiping with Penetrol and after 6 months found no rust. I also use Penetrol in my paint sprayer as it really evens out the paint and prevents fish eyes.
ERLover wrote:Some here and me on the raw steel and cast iron use an oil based paint thinner, I am going to miss spell it Penitrol?? then wax. I shellac my raw steel and cast iron too, then wax.
Here is the site. and info for raw metal and aluminum http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions
It is a PAINT additive. Please explain how it prevents rust on cast iron.
I donno. I do know it works!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
AppLic
A
tion
i
nstructions
ADDITIVES
Flood Penetrol can be used in exterior alkyd/oil
paints, primers and stains to improve flow and
eliminate brush marks. It can also be used to stop
and prevent metal from rusting, and to restore the
color of fiberglass. See the product label for more
information and details regarding application.
appli
C
2.
Stopping and preventing rust on metal:
1. Remove loose rust, excess dirt, oil and grease.
2. Make sure the surface is dry.
3. Saturate the metal with Penetrol.
4. Allow 12 to 24 hours for drying.
5.
For brass, copper, aluminum and chrome, scrub
the surface with fine steel wool soaked in Penetrol,
and polish it with a clean
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
ERLover wrote:Some here and me on the raw steel and cast iron use an oil based paint thinner, I am going to miss spell it Penitrol?? then wax. I shellac my raw steel and cast iron too, then wax.
Here is the site. and info for raw metal and aluminum http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions
It is a PAINT additive. Please explain how it prevents rust on cast iron.
I can personally attest that Penetrol is a very effective rust preventative. As for why, Flood offers this explanation.
I like to apply it and let it soak into any pits and pores, and harden for a day or so. Then I wipe the excess off using a rag dampened with mineral spirits, but leaving plenty Penetrol in the pores. Then I topcoat it with JPW, which makes it nice and slippery. It works like a charm. Before I started doing this, stuff that I had derusted with Evaporust and treated only with WD40 and JPW would soon start rusting again. End of problem, once I learned to treat first with Penetrol.
BD, you turned it on to me a few years ago, when I got my first SS and cleaned up the tubes. Thanks!!!
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.