Main Table Alignment

[jsburger]

Since we are looking at the subject here is an interesting posting on kickback and yes pinching can be a factor. So believe it or not it is an alignment issue. Now if you are like me and like to use guards and the top guard in particular it is unlikely you will see any wood flying back at you but if the wood does pinch due to bad alignment it will burn and or stall the saw.

There are a lot of other potential ways to have it happen so just having the alignment right is not going to prevent it but you don't want it adding to the mix.

And as stated "By far the most common cause is binding or pinching. This happens when a piece of wood becomes trapped between the rotating blade and a stationary object, such as the fence or the guard. The following is a list of reasons that stock can kick back:"

While all of that is true, if you have never been tought how to use a table saw then there is a problem. None of that has to do with alignment. It is all operator error.

Any way have a read:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/kickback

Ed

[JPG]

Since we are looking at the subject here is an interesting posting on kickback and yes pinching can be a factor. So believe it or not it is an alignment issue. Now if you are like me and like to use guards and the top guard in particular it is unlikely you will see any wood flying back at you but if the wood does pinch due to bad alignment it will burn and or stall the saw.

There are a lot of other potential ways to have it happen so just having the alignment right is not going to prevent it but you don't want it adding to the mix.

And as stated "By far the most common cause is binding or pinching. This happens when a piece of wood becomes trapped between the rotating blade and a stationary object, such as the fence or the guard. The following is a list of reasons that stock can kick back:"

While all of that is true, if you have never been tought how to use a table saw then there is a problem. None of that has to do with alignment. It is all operator error.

Any way have a read:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/kickback

Ed

"Hiding" your response???


Hmmmm. Guess we need to all make a fence 'shortener'.

[jsburger]

Since we are looking at the subject here is an interesting posting on kickback and yes pinching can be a factor. So believe it or not it is an alignment issue. Now if you are like me and like to use guards and the top guard in particular it is unlikely you will see any wood flying back at you but if the wood does pinch due to bad alignment it will burn and or stall the saw.

There are a lot of other potential ways to have it happen so just having the alignment right is not going to prevent it but you don't want it adding to the mix.

And as stated "By far the most common cause is binding or pinching. This happens when a piece of wood becomes trapped between the rotating blade and a stationary object, such as the fence or the guard. The following is a list of reasons that stock can kick back:"

While all of that is true, if you have never been tought how to use a table saw then there is a problem. None of that has to do with alignment. It is all operator error.

Any way have a read:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/kickback

Ed

"Hiding" your response???


Hmmmm. Guess we need to all make a fence 'shortener'.

Apparently. I don't know what happened. I did type a reply. I just said I completely agree with that statement.

[MaxClass]

If you happen to have the Shopsmith Tenon Master Jig is there any reason why it could not be used to align the blade and the fence? It is precision made to be square with the blade and rides snuggly in the track slots.

Any metal spacer can be used to help along the face.

Max
~~~

[dusty]

If you are proposing to use the Tenon Master as a reference surface from which you measure the distance to the blade I see no reason why it would not work but why.

Is that really any different than using the Miter Gauge Stop Rod (505629) in conjunction with the Miter Gauge (505700) as an adjustable reference surface.

Strange that you should mention the Tenon Master though. I have dismantled the Tenon Master to make use of the miter bar and the steel block as the base for my dial indicator.