algale wrote:If the first incident occurred before the wood got to the part of the blade that is rising, I think Dusty is right: the narrow piece is getting down into the insert and even though it wasn't cut free it probably was hitting the the arbor flange or nut. Those narrow cut offs have been the cause of a couple of really exciting (read scary) table saw incidents for me which resulted in loud bangs. Use a zero clearance insert when making such narrow cuts.
I dont see how that can happen it is still attached to the main piece, since the main piece cant fit, andis at table height how would the thin piece, which is still attached, go lower.
Very thin flap of wood being subjected to downward force of the front of the blade.
Also, the entire board on the right side of the blade looks thin enough to droop down.
Looks to me to be at least 1/2" and maybe closer to 3/4". How is that going to droop anywhere?
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Well if we are assuming the cut shown was done up with the set up shown then you already have some of your answers. This task would be better done with a bandsaw but if you don't have one you can still do it with the table saw.
Do you have a copy of the PTWFE? If so review the section where they show this cut make in a two step process with the blade set to just over half depth make a pass then flip and make the second pass. You will need a shorter splitter to do this as it will not be a through cut on the first pass.
BTW it looks like a rip blade to me.
I'm also hoping you know the wood will need more attention after cutting to be usable so leave some added thickness for processing.
ZCI is a must, some form of splitter required, and some push stick that can still have enough room to pass the guard and still push on the wood... that might be tricky, perhaps a piece of 2 x 4 to push it past the separation then stopping the saw and retrieving the parts and the 2 x 4??
From your description you were not in control of this cut, that is not a safe thing to do so it good you stopped and came here for answers.
You might not know it but there are store front and catalog places that sell thinner wood, Woodcraft and Rockler are two in my area.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
algale wrote:If the first incident occurred before the wood got to the part of the blade that is rising, I think Dusty is right: the narrow piece is getting down into the insert and even though it wasn't cut free it probably was hitting the the arbor flange or nut. Those narrow cut offs have been the cause of a couple of really exciting (read scary) table saw incidents for me which resulted in loud bangs. Use a zero clearance insert when making such narrow cuts.
I dont see how that can happen it is still attached to the main piece, since the main piece cant fit, andis at table height how would the thin piece, which is still attached, go lower.
Very thin flap of wood being subjected to downward force of the front of the blade.
Also, the entire board on the right side of the blade looks thin enough to droop down.
With all do respect, I am not buying that. The main piece is too wide to to that, and he did not mention that in his text. But I was not there. All in all, his set up for what he is doing is risky at best.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
I agree with all of the safety advice so far. And I notice that the blade is a zero-degree hook design, so it's probably a cross-cut blade designed for a miter saw or a radial arm saw. I'd expect it to be rather hard-feeding on a table saw. Are the teeth sharp? It's hard to tell from the photo.
Also, that board seems really short to be resawing on a tablesaw. In addition to a ZCI, I'd probably set the blade to cut only half way through, and then flip the board over to complete the cut. Or better yet, resaw it on a bandsaw, if you have one.
reible wrote:If we could read the rest of this label it would all become clear.
1h.jpg
Ed
I would guess, Not Recommended for Non Ferrous Metals and Ripping Wood.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
I looked at this on my phone first and even expanding the picture to full phone size I couldn't see much. I'm now wondering what the blade is for, the zero hook angle is not something that says rip blade..... but the teeth look like the are flat ground??? So may be the note says "Not" for ripping?
When I get to my computer I'll try blowing it up and see what it looks like then.
Ed
jsburger wrote:
reible wrote:If we could read the rest of this label it would all become clear.
1h.jpg
Ed
I saw that also but still questioned it in my mind.
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Looking at the picture again on the computer and blowing it up I can almost see the "N"ot. Also with the number of teeth is not likely a rip blade, just too many teeth. The grind is still confusing me, I'm not seeing much of a bevel if any. Anyway I'm changing my opinion and saying it is not a rip blade. So add that to the list of things that need to change.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
First off, thank you all for the feedback. I know I’m new at this, but I’m always open to take advice, especially all the well thought out responses. I intend to be safe by most standards, so I’ll be taking the advice and making those adjustments.
Dusty – I wasn’t fully aware of that (obviously). Though I did look around at my inserts and found that one to be the most narrow of them all. So, I’m definitely missing a necessary element. I thought about using the fingerboard (featherboard? I thought that was the name, or is it a different product?) But by that I time I was already set up and cutting. I was using a guide block and thought that was the same thing. Certainly there were some mistakes that I made, though none intentionally. I know, ignorance is hardly an excuse. :-/
ERLover – I’ll study up on the blade types and be sure to use the right ones. I have a few ShopSmith brand blades, one of which sounds like what you’re describing. But they look cheap? I know I don’t know my “stuff”, but they just scream low quality. If ya’ll say otherwise then I’ll go with that. I didn’t think this one was a bad one to use.
Algale – Dually noted. I’ll be looking for a zero clearance insert. Is there one for each blade thickness? Or just one that covers most blade sizes well enough? And for clarification, the main piece (right side) is thicker than the entire gap of the insert, so certainly thicker than the gap beside the blade.
Reible – I do have a copy of PTWFE. I’ve skimmed through it and looked up a few things, but I haven’t memorized it. I didn’t see that technique in the book, but that’s actually what I did on some other pieces of wood that were too big to resaw, just to trim off the sides a little. Cut a little over half, then flipped it over and finished the job. This one pictured though was all the way through (through-cut?). As it was mentioned before, I’m sure it is a rip blade, and the wrong one for the job. I’m not fully aware of how important it is to use the right blade, but I’ll just assume that the answer is “VERY!”, and try to use the right ones for now on. What’s a splitter? I googled it and it looked just like a riveting knife… which I don’t have. Is the riveting knife and upper blade guard the same thing?
