The mystery part should mount on two holes in the end of the miter gauge bar as shown in his pix. His 'pin' has a smaller od on the knurled end, but yours should be 1/4" full length.(ignoring what is 'inside').
His pix show the pin extended to act as a stop with the set screws and retracted to allow complete positioning freedom.
This makes more sense after it is assembled and 'operated'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
suntower wrote:So... is that pin supposed to retract (move back and forth?) My is stuck in that position. Is there a screw that locks it in place? How do I loosen it?
Penetrating oil(K1 kerosene).
Do not try to rotate it. Only push/pull(or push from opposite directions).
It may be bent.
It is retained with a tension pin that passes through a notch(flat area) on the pin.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
suntower wrote:So... is that pin supposed to retract (move back and forth?) My is stuck in that position. Is there a screw that locks it in place? How do I loosen it?
Yes it, the pin locks into 90* BUT in the right Miter Gauge, I cant speak for a M2 but would think the same, but as I said I dont eat and sleep with them but on my Grreenie that is how it works and has a spring action. Dont force anything until we get it all figured out. You are dealing with experts here!!!
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
Do not try to rotate it. Only push/pull(or push from opposite directions).
It may be bent.
It is retained with a tension pin that passes through a notch(flat area) on the pin.
A ball peen hammer works too.
Sliding fine, now.
What exactly does this thing do? Probably another stupid question, but why should I even care about this? I ask because it's obvious the prior owner never used most of this stuff, so I'm wondering why he even bothered to remove it.
Anyhoo... what's the point of it? Why does the pin even need to be there?
ERLover wrote:Here is a thing I have found, Grandpa buys an ER, and some accessories, passes it down to his son, he likes it, and dedicates as something, his son buys a 60-70ish SS and some more accessories, PTOs dad dies an now grandson does not do wood working and has no idea about what, plus a few other power tools, and accessories in the parts bucket. You buy them all and have to figure out what is what and what for. Just went through that with an ER and a ToolCraft Shaper.
Close. In my case... ex's brother inherits from father-in-law, lets it rust for 20 years then leaves it in front of my garage one day with 100's of pieces in a foot locker and no docs. I put it back together as best I could.Bbut then I reached a point kinda like assembling a kid's Christmas toy... I started having (cough) 'extra' pieces. So I joined here.
I feel bad asking all these stupid questions, but the first thing I did when I got it was... rotate the speed control with no power. Nothing bad happened, but now I don't do ANYTHING without asking.
Anyhoo... thanks for all the help. I'm sure I'll need a lot more.
Evolution of Shopsmith miter gauges(ehh, knock offs included)....https://youtu.be/ILqeevkKf3A
I believe in the first minute it explains the plunger/pin and stops.
PowerPro Mark 7, 11" Bandsaw, 4" Jointer, 12" Professional Planer, DC3300 Dust Collector, DW745, DW718 w/ DW723 and a DW788 w/ DW7880.
Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts. -Winston Churchill
ERLover wrote:Here is a thing I have found, Grandpa buys an ER, and some accessories, passes it down to his son, he likes it, and dedicates as something, his son buys a 60-70ish SS and some more accessories, PTOs dad dies an now grandson does not do wood working and has no idea about what, plus a few other power tools, and accessories in the parts bucket. You buy them all and have to figure out what is what and what for. Just went through that with an ER and a ToolCraft Shaper.
Close. In my case... ex's brother inherits from father-in-law, lets it rust for 20 years then leaves it in front of my garage one day with 100's of pieces in a foot locker and no docs. I put it back together as best I could.Bbut then I reached a point kinda like assembling a kid's Christmas toy... I started having (cough) 'extra' pieces. So I joined here.
I feel bad asking all these stupid questions, but the first thing I did when I got it was... rotate the speed control with no power. Nothing bad happened, but now I don't do ANYTHING without asking.
Anyhoo... thanks for all the help. I'm sure I'll need a lot more.
no stupid questions on this site, we are all here to help in are areas of expertise
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
Do not try to rotate it. Only push/pull(or push from opposite directions).
It may be bent.
It is retained with a tension pin that passes through a notch(flat area) on the pin.
A ball peen hammer works too.
Sliding fine, now.
What exactly does this thing do? Probably another stupid question, but why should I even care about this? I ask because it's obvious the prior owner never used most of this stuff, so I'm wondering why he even bothered to remove it.
Anyhoo... what's the point of it? Why does the pin even need to be there?
As always...
---JC
The pin allows for repeatable, accurate setting of the 90(0)° and ± 45° angle. Yes the stop screws must be aligned initially to provide that.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
NOW I get it. Every miter I've used before had one of the other type of 'indexes'. They were so useless (ie. inaccurate) I just ignored them.
Thanks!
---JC
Skizzity wrote:Evolution of Shopsmith miter gauges(ehh, knock offs included)....https://youtu.be/ILqeevkKf3A
I believe in the first minute it explains the plunger/pin and stops.
