10ER Update/Questions

[Tylerh]

My last post was about a possible 10ER purchase and questions about it. Today I went to look at it and it is being sold by a guy who is taking care of his brother in law's estate. He knew absolutely nothing about the shopsmith. Didn't even know it was a shopsmith. After talking for a while and giving him some history he said he will hold it for me until next week. He plugged it in and it ran surprisingly good. One upsetting part is the gentlemen that owned it replaced the name plate with a piece of sheet metal that houses a house hold light switch to turn the machine on/off. Now for the weird part, at the end of the "bench" the gentlemen installed a second motor. I can't tell why or what it was used for. Any ideas? The last photo is of the motor but it's hard to see. You can see the pulley in the second to last photo. Oh also the table is present with fence and miter gauge but I took it off.

[jsburger]

Too bad about the ID plate. I think I have only seen one or two come up on eBay in years of watching eBay. Bill Mayo, Skip Campbell or Hogwinslow might have one. I would check with them.

As for the second motor, the only thing I can think of is that he had some other tool (jointer, band saw, etc.) that he clamped to the way tubes and used that motor to power it. It certainly is not a Shopsmith thing.

[Tylerh]

I figured it wasn't anything to do with the shopsmith and that was also my idea. I might just leave the switch how it is depending on what the rest of the electrical looks like. I'd like to make it original but if he's got it messed up in there I don't want to mess it up even more.

[oldiron]

Hey Tyler,

Check with the folks John mentioned and get into the ole gal and make her right. I couldn't stand to have one of my ERs look that way! The switching is very simple and you can always add it along side the headstock. A replacement badge would be of immediate need to have...

The second motor was either for another attachment or possibly an improvised speed changer. If the headstock was positioned so a secondary belt could be slipped over one of the original motor pulley grooves, He may have run the bottom motor only and used the original motor as strictly a pulley system.

Mike

[jsburger]

I figured it wasn't anything to do with the shopsmith and that was also my idea. I might just leave the switch how it is depending on what the rest of the electrical looks like. I'd like to make it original but if he's got it messed up in there I don't want to mess it up even more.

There is nothing to mess up. The wiring is as basic as any wiring gets. The power cord from the outlet hooks to one side of the switch and a cord from the other side of the switch connects to the motor. The connections are the same as the ones the other guy changed. Just go to Radio Shack and buy a toggle switch rated for 110V and a 1/2HP motor or greater and fix it right. Then find an OEM logo plate to replace the ugly thing someone changed.

I agree with Oldiron. I could never leave a 10 look that way. They are very easy to get (restore) in near new condition. However, that is up to you.

[Tylerh]

Mike, my intentions are to find a new badge as long as it's not to crazy in there (I don't see how it could be). I would like to make it as original as possible. Im paying $50 which leaves quite a bit extra $ for parts. I know the quill spring is broken, all the locks work as they should though and it actually ran which was a plus. That speed changer theory sounds quite interesting.. I'll have to look into that. I would like to find a pair of original "legs" as they're called on the Mark 5/V but so far have only seen a single leg on ebay. I plan on taking my time and doing her right. The guy said if nobody bought it within a month he was taking it to the scrap yard. There's no way I could let that happen under any circumstances.

[jsburger]

Mike, my intentions are to find a new badge as long as it's not to crazy in there (I don't see how it could be). I would like to make it as original as possible. Im paying $50 which leaves quite a bit extra $ for parts. I know the quill spring is broken, all the locks work as they should though and it actually ran which was a plus. That speed changer theory sounds quite interesting.. I'll have to look into that. I would like to find a pair of original "legs" as they're called on the Mark 5/V but so far have only seen a single leg on ebay. I plan on taking my time and doing her right. The guy said if nobody bought it within a month he was taking it to the scrap yard. There's no way I could let that happen under any circumstances.

Normally the spring breaks at the end where it hooks to the pinion feed shaft. The connection to the pinion feed shaft is a key hole slot in the end of the spring. It is easy to fix.

The 10ER lege and castors do come up on eBay fairly regularly. I can't remember seeing a single leg recently. There is nothing but original legs for the 10ER. There were MK V clones that I guess would fit a true MK V.

All the parts you will need will come up on eBay eventually. Just check every day.

[Tylerh]

I had the same thing happen with the quill feed spring on my greenie that I got and am rebuilding as well. Im already watching a few items that I think I'll need for her. Im not very good at documenting but I think I'll try and give it a go rebuilding the 10ER and start a thread for it. Thanks for the help so far guys.

[rjent]

Here is a badge, you might want to go quick. It has a buy it now price of 9 dollars or so ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Name-Plate-Or-B ... Sw~OVW03Oz

The switch can be found on ebay as well, just do a search. It has a red plastic safety device on it. I put one on my first 10ER and it is great. Like it has been said, there is nothing to mess up in the headstock.

The plate looks like a 1948 ....

Good Luck!

[JPG]

That badge was 'ripped' off the headstock. The holes are now 'open'. Better ones have been there before.