router dilemma

Forum for people who are new to woodworking. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderator: admin

User avatar
rjent
Platinum Member
Posts: 2121
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico

router dilemma

Post by rjent »

I like and want to use SS equipment exclusively. But, alas, I think I have just found a deficiency in the concept.
I would like to route a profile on the edges of the inside edges of a rail and stile panel after it is built. The distance between the tubes (in undertable/over table mode) and the bit (quill) is not sufficient to be able to reach where I need to go. I know you can get bits to do this before assembly, but I want to do it this way for a number of reasons.

If I go with a router and a table (either mounted on the SS or built separately) what should I look for? I don't want to spend a lot of money, don't think I need a plunge router (or do I LOL).or am I missing an ability/technique of the SS that I am missing.

Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance!
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35457
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: router dilemma

Post by JPG »

Yes those pesky way tubes can(and do) get in the way.

IIUC you want to rout an internal edge. If the width is not too great, position the piece between the way tubes and the cutter.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
masonsailor2
Platinum Member
Posts: 1564
Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 11:57 am
Location: Las Vegas NV

Re: router dilemma

Post by masonsailor2 »

Are you intending to use a guide bearing on this operation ?
Paul
sehast
Gold Member
Posts: 497
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 6:53 pm
Location: Milpitas, CA

Re: router dilemma

Post by sehast »

Routing the inside of a rail and stile after it is glued will result in rounded inside corners instead if the sharp square ones typically seen. Is that what you want?
User avatar
rjent
Platinum Member
Posts: 2121
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico

Re: router dilemma

Post by rjent »

Paul, I was not planning to use a bearing bit. I understand wouldn't work. and sehast, I like the rounded inside corners, and is one of the reasons I am trying to do it this way, just can't do it with the tubes in the way. and JPG, yes the reach is not enough on the size of panel I am doing.
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
sehast
Gold Member
Posts: 497
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2015 6:53 pm
Location: Milpitas, CA

Re: router dilemma

Post by sehast »

rjent wrote:Paul, I was not planning to use a bearing bit. I understand wouldn't work. and sehast, I like the rounded inside corners, and is one of the reasons I am trying to do it this way, just can't do it with the tubes in the way. and JPG, yes the reach is not enough on the size of panel I am doing.
Then you could do what you want with a Shopsmith Speed Increaser attachment but it will take some investment. You will also have the added benefit of routing at a higher rpm.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... reaser.htm

They also sell on Ebay from time to time.
User avatar
rjent
Platinum Member
Posts: 2121
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico

Re: router dilemma

Post by rjent »

sehast wrote:
rjent wrote:Paul, I was not planning to use a bearing bit. I understand wouldn't work. and sehast, I like the rounded inside corners, and is one of the reasons I am trying to do it this way, just can't do it with the tubes in the way. and JPG, yes the reach is not enough on the size of panel I am doing.
Then you could do what you want with a Shopsmith Speed Increaser attachment but it will take some investment. You will also have the added benefit of routing at a higher rpm.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... reaser.htm

They also sell on Ebay from time to time.
That is a good idea and pretty cool! At 300 bucks it is a little hard to justify for my use, but it is certainly something I will look into.

Thanks guys, something to ponder .... :/
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
User avatar
BuckeyeDennis
Platinum Member
Posts: 3802
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
Location: Central Ohio

Re: router dilemma

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

Dick, this is what you really need. Manufactured by Shopsmith. Well, except for the router motors and aftermarket fence, that is. If the column is in your way, loosen one bolt and it will slip right out. And the overarm part is awesome for router inlays, including making your own patterns. Also great for making repetitive copies of stuff .. that's how it was done before CNC's were invented. (Well shoot .. see below. For the last couple of days, inlining a pic from my iPad isn't working.)

Might be a bit hard to find in NM. I can watch CL for one in Ohio, if you're not in a big hurry. I usually see them once or twice a year. The fence cost more than I paid for the OPR itself.

Meanwhile, I would think that a handheld router, in conjunction with some supports of thickness equal to your rail/stile assembly, should work fine in conjunction with bearing bits. If the rails & stiles are already cut and assembled, and you like the rounded interior corners, why would that not work?
Attachments
image.jpeg
image.jpeg (605.4 KiB) Viewed 13282 times
masonsailor2
Platinum Member
Posts: 1564
Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 11:57 am
Location: Las Vegas NV

Re: router dilemma

Post by masonsailor2 »

Dick sorry it took so long to get back to this. Had to take a quick flight home to get out of the way of Hernine. Are all the doors the same size ? There is an inexpensive way to do what you want at a low tech level that will give you nice results. You will need to purchase a plunge router with a guide bushing. If the doors are not the same dimension you will need to build more than one jig but they are quite simple to make. I can elaborate more on the jig if you decide to go this route. A plunge router is required. As far as routers go you can spend as much or little as you like. For this particular application the heavier the router the better. I believe HF makes one at the lower price level. I recently purchased one of their 2 HP fixed base model to build that tilting axis router for the SS and have run it a fair amount with no issues. Since I wasn't sure the concept would work it wasn't worth spending $300 plus for a router motor. Another question is are the center panels already installed ? That would determine how you make the jig.
Paul
User avatar
rjent
Platinum Member
Posts: 2121
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico

Re: router dilemma

Post by rjent »

Thanks Paul. I am thinking I will get a plunge router (probably around 2HP) with a 1/2" collet for the bits I already have. it is more that i wanted to do, but so be it.
I am very interested in your idea. Yes, for this application, I want to route the inside after assembly and thus creating a rounded inside corner. If I get a plunge router, it or course, opens up other options and I am aware of that.

So, if you would be so kind, educate me :D

Dennis, I don't quite understand how that machine is any better than what the Shopsmith provides, you still have a post in the way .... :confused: So maybe you should enlighten me as well :)

sehast, I will definately be on the lookout for a SI. That looks promising. I will try to find one on Ebay or CL.

Thanks guys for helping this noob out .... :/
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Post Reply