Work bench top
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Work bench top
After attempting to do a project this long weekend, and for the umpteenth time having to move the same items around to make room to get started, I decided to clean house instead. It was a good day of progress but Dam it was hard getting rid of all the stuff I MIGHT use some day. Epically all the cut offs. Now I have a clean bench top and I'm thinking it's time for a new woodworking bench. I've been using a double layer of solid core doors for my top for years and they have served me well, but they are all beat up.
I've looked over all the articals but haven't been able to find one on the pros/cons of using built up plywood instead of a built up hardwood for the top.
Anyone have an opinion?
I've looked over all the articals but haven't been able to find one on the pros/cons of using built up plywood instead of a built up hardwood for the top.
Anyone have an opinion?
Paul B
- thunderbirdbat
- Platinum Member
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Re: Work bench top
I saw a plan for one that used a torsion box top but I do not remember where it was.
Brenda
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
1998 510 upgraded to a 520, upgraded to power pro with double tilt and lift assist.
1998 bandsaw
2016 beltsander
jointer
overarm pin router
Re: Work bench top
I have been mulling around the idea of re-doing my entire shop with new cabinets and a different layout. I have pretty much made up my mind to bite the bullet and by maple butcher block for my work surfaces. I'm going to buy them in 8' sections and use them for the tops after I build my cabinets. The ones that I have looked at are 1 1/2" thick so they will handle things like a big vice which I would mount with a steel or alum plate. I will be interested in other peoples ideas on this also. Maybe something I have overlooked.
- dusty
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Re: Work bench top
Since the solid core doors (btw, that is what my bench tops are) have served you well, why not breathe new life into them with new hard board tops.moggymatt wrote:After attempting to do a project this long weekend, and for the umpteenth time having to move the same items around to make room to get started, I decided to clean house instead. It was a good day of progress but Dam it was hard getting rid of all the stuff I MIGHT use some day. Epically all the cut offs. Now I have a clean bench top and I'm thinking it's time for a new woodworking bench. I've been using a double layer of solid core doors for my top for years and they have served me well, but they are all beat up.
I've looked over all the articals but haven't been able to find one on the pros/cons of using built up plywood instead of a built up hardwood for the top.
Anyone have an opinion?
My bench tops were rescued from a dumpster when the building I worked in was being remodeled. I look back on that and I now believe those doors were never on their way to the dump. I believe the contractors doing the renovations had intentions similar to mine. I would not be able to remove those doors from a dumpster today. I would either get into the dumpster and not be able to get back out or I would get in there and would not be able to retrieve the doors because they are so heavy or both.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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ERLover
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Re: Work bench top
1/4" tempered Masonite hard board over the door surface.moggymatt wrote:After attempting to do a project this long weekend, and for the umpteenth time having to move the same items around to make room to get started, I decided to clean house instead. It was a good day of progress but Dam it was hard getting rid of all the stuff I MIGHT use some day. Epically all the cut offs. Now I have a clean bench top and I'm thinking it's time for a new woodworking bench. I've been using a double layer of solid core doors for my top for years and they have served me well, but they are all beat up.
I've looked over all the articals but haven't been able to find one on the pros/cons of using built up plywood instead of a built up hardwood for the top.
Anyone have an opinion?
For mine, I used 3/4" OSB then a High Density Particle Board 1 1/8" non faced, the one here I am linking to is faced. Then 1/4" Masonite tempered hard board on top of that. Skirted with a 2" wide White Ash and the same thickness.
https://www.menards.com/main/building-m ... 2301199484
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
Re: Work bench top
Plywood is much softer than hard wood so it is way more susceptible to damage. A good maple top should last a life time. Many companies make laminated maple bench tops in various sizes. They are 1 3/4" thick but some are thicker. I have a small utility bench I made from one and the out feed table for my table saw is made from another. Definitely more expensive than 3 or 4 sheets of plywood but worth it in my opinion due to the weight and durability.moggymatt wrote:After attempting to do a project this long weekend, and for the umpteenth time having to move the same items around to make room to get started, I decided to clean house instead. It was a good day of progress but Dam it was hard getting rid of all the stuff I MIGHT use some day. Epically all the cut offs. Now I have a clean bench top and I'm thinking it's time for a new woodworking bench. I've been using a double layer of solid core doors for my top for years and they have served me well, but they are all beat up.
I've looked over all the articals but haven't been able to find one on the pros/cons of using built up plywood instead of a built up hardwood for the top.
Anyone have an opinion?
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John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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Re: Work bench top
Here is the thing if you use maple and butcher block or end grain they will look super. However if you use them they will get damaged. The end of each year of high school shop class we refinished the work bench tops. Pretty intense WORK.
I would use ply, hardboard, or pine 2x4 on edge. Easy to replace or sand smooth to renew the top.
Any time you want to check out resurfacing a maple top let me know I will let you work on my bench which I made from bowling alley. Biggest problem is getting flat again after numerous gouges, drill holes, saw oops, hammer strikes and etc. problem is you can't us a plane because there is metal imbedded into the top, from drilling metal, filing metal, cutting metal, sharpening metal.
I am seriously considering two layers of 3/4 to cover it, Or giving it to one of my SIL or Grandson and build a new design out of 1 1/2 inch ply. Solid core door would be excellent and probably the most economical. Plus if you use two layers you have 4 new surfaces to use before you either refinish or replace.
I would use ply, hardboard, or pine 2x4 on edge. Easy to replace or sand smooth to renew the top.
Any time you want to check out resurfacing a maple top let me know I will let you work on my bench which I made from bowling alley. Biggest problem is getting flat again after numerous gouges, drill holes, saw oops, hammer strikes and etc. problem is you can't us a plane because there is metal imbedded into the top, from drilling metal, filing metal, cutting metal, sharpening metal.
I am seriously considering two layers of 3/4 to cover it, Or giving it to one of my SIL or Grandson and build a new design out of 1 1/2 inch ply. Solid core door would be excellent and probably the most economical. Plus if you use two layers you have 4 new surfaces to use before you either refinish or replace.
Re: Work bench top
I think a high school wood shop is a poor example. The kids don't yet understand what they are doing and have not yet developed a work ethic. If they damaged maple tops bad enough to require refinishing they would have destroyed plywood.Ed in Tampa wrote:Here is the thing if you use maple and butcher block or end grain they will look super. However if you use them they will get damaged. The end of each year of high school shop class we refinished the work bench tops. Pretty intense WORK.
I would use ply, hardboard, or pine 2x4 on edge. Easy to replace or sand smooth to renew the top.
Any time you want to check out resurfacing a maple top let me know I will let you work on my bench which I made from bowling alley. Biggest problem is getting flat again after numerous gouges, drill holes, saw oops, hammer strikes and etc. problem is you can't us a plane because there is metal imbedded into the top, from drilling metal, filing metal, cutting metal, sharpening metal.
I am seriously considering two layers of 3/4 to cover it, Or giving it to one of my SIL or Grandson and build a new design out of 1 1/2 inch ply. Solid core door would be excellent and probably the most economical. Plus if you use two layers you have 4 new surfaces to use before you either refinish or replace.
I thought we are talking about a wood working bench not a metal working bench. If you have destroyed your bowling alley bench top I feel sorry. I wish I could find a piece of a bowling alley. Send yours it to me and I will fix it and use it. I take pride in my bench tops and try to protect them in any way I can. If you have destroyed a bowling alley bench top a plywood top has no chance of success. JMHO.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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ERLover
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Re: Work bench top
JS I agree, I NEVER do metal work on my WW bench, I have a separate bench for that, both at home at at moms.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
Re: Work bench top
I am very much a traditionalist. A wood working bench should be made in one of the classical styles, your choice. If you want a universal bench to pound on and cut metal on and whatever then make it out of anything you want. The OP's question was about a Wood Working Bench hence my replies.ERLover wrote:JS I agree, I NEVER do metal work on my WW bench, I have a separate bench for that, both at home at at moms.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT