Work bench top

[ERLover]

JS I agree, I NEVER do metal work on my WW bench, I have a separate bench for that, both at home at at moms.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.

I am very much a traditionalist. A wood working bench should be made in one of the classical styles, your choice. If you want a universal bench to pound on and cut metal on and whatever then make it out of anything you want. The OP's question was about a Wood Working Bench hence my replies.

Are we misinterpreting each other again?
1st separate benches for metal and wood working.
My 2nd opinion/point was about a WW bench, as far as what the top could be made of. Yes some like solid, in my cost analysis a good hard wood top bench top cost more then what I did and described as options to a solid bench top unless making it out of pine or fir 2x4s which would be softer and lighter.

[Ed in Tampa]

Here is the thing if you use maple and butcher block or end grain they will look super. However if you use them they will get damaged. The end of each year of high school shop class we refinished the work bench tops. Pretty intense WORK.

I would use ply, hardboard, or pine 2x4 on edge. Easy to replace or sand smooth to renew the top.

Any time you want to check out resurfacing a maple top let me know I will let you work on my bench which I made from bowling alley. Biggest problem is getting flat again after numerous gouges, drill holes, saw oops, hammer strikes and etc. problem is you can't us a plane because there is metal imbedded into the top, from drilling metal, filing metal, cutting metal, sharpening metal.

I am seriously considering two layers of 3/4 to cover it, Or giving it to one of my SIL or Grandson and build a new design out of 1 1/2 inch ply. Solid core door would be excellent and probably the most economical. Plus if you use two layers you have 4 new surfaces to use before you either refinish or replace.

I think a high school wood shop is a poor example. The kids don't yet understand what they are doing and have not yet developed a work ethic. If they damaged maple tops bad enough to require refinishing they would have destroyed plywood.

I thought we are talking about a wood working bench not a metal working bench. If you have destroyed your bowling alley bench top I feel sorry. I wish I could find a piece of a bowling alley. Send yours it to me and I will fix it and use it. I take pride in my bench tops and try to protect them in any way I can. If you have destroyed a bowling alley bench top a plywood top has no chance of success. JMHO.

Point i was trying to make if a high school shop,class can damage a bench top in 9 months enough that it must be refinished how often would it have to be refinished in use in a work shop? Probably everyb4 or 5 years.

As far as doing metal working on the bench. I drill hinges and handles, cut hinges to length, and sharpen my tools on my bench. Haven't built a iron fence or a cast iron wood stove in a long time.

The point I was trying to make was I would not try to plane my work bench smooth using a GOOD plane. Too many chances to ruin the blade or score the sole plate.

I have seen shops with magnificent work benches and I have seen shops with benches that looked like they were used 100 years in a machine shop. I have seen the finished products from each type of shop. To me the bench does not make the craftsman or even signify a craftsman. It is the finished work the person does.

PS my bowling alley top is far from ruined. It just needs some attention and I am trying to decide what is the wisest thing to do. I am about 20 years past the pretty coffee table type work bench. So don't watch the mail for me to send you my top.

[rpd]

After attempting to do a project this long weekend, and for the umpteenth time having to move the same items around to make room to get started, I decided to clean house instead. It was a good day of progress but Dam it was hard getting rid of all the stuff I MIGHT use some day. Epically all the cut offs. Now I have a clean bench top and I'm thinking it's time for a new woodworking bench. I've been using a double layer of solid core doors for my top for years and they have served me well, but they are all beat up.
I've looked over all the articals but haven't been able to find one on the pros/cons of using built up plywood instead of a built up hardwood for the top.
Anyone have an opinion?

There is a third option, make the top of glued up 2x4's ala Paul Sellers. I am still very pleased with how mine turned out. Woodwork Bench Build

[roopurt5]

There is a third option, make the top of glued up 2x4's ala Paul Sellers. I am still very pleased with how mine turned out. Woodwork Bench Build

Do you have any pics of yours? I'm in the process of redesigning my shop, and am planning on making that bench for the new layout. What, if anything, did you put in the bottom?

[rpd]

There is a third option, make the top of glued up 2x4's ala Paul Sellers. I am still very pleased with how mine turned out. Woodwork Bench Build

Do you have any pics of yours? I'm in the process of redesigning my shop, and am planning on making that bench for the new layout. What, if anything, did you put in the bottom?

Click on the link (the words hi-lighted in blue) lots of pictures of the whole build process. I did the smaller version, one top at the front and tool well at the rear.
It is rock solid but can easily be disassembled if it needs to be moved.

Good luck with your build, just follow Paul Sellers's videos and his associated blog posts (there are a few things covered in the blogs that are not on the videos) and you will do fine.

And please share photos of you progress.

edit. I don't have build anything underneath the bench, but it has accumulated a lot of boxes of "crap" over the years.

[roopurt5]

Silly me! I thought that was the link to Paul Sellers' blog, but I didn't actually check. Thanks!

[dusty]

JS I agree, I NEVER do metal work on my WW bench, I have a separate bench for that, both at home at at moms.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.

I am very much a traditionalist. A wood working bench should be made in one of the classical styles, your choice. If you want a universal bench to pound on and cut metal on and whatever then make it out of anything you want. The OP's question was about a Wood Working Bench hence my replies.

Looking at your shop, John, I would not refer to you as a traditionalist. You are, in my mind, somewhat "out-of-the-ordinary" especially as a home craftsman. You have a really nice shop and it is also nicely equipped. It therefore deserves a nice dedicated hard wood work bench. But it is not a traditional shop.

My garage shop is what I consider to be a shop for the traditional home hobby workshop.

Having said that, my work bench areas are all made using salvaged hard core doors that have been recovered at least three times with new sheets of 1/4" hardboard. I think the most important characteristics are that the bench be flat, level and solid. To be solid, it might have to be heavy. Mine meet all of those qualifications and I will probably die with the same workbenches in place (hopefully with a couple new top surfaces).

[moggymatt]

JS I agree, I NEVER do metal work on my WW bench, I have a separate bench for that, both at home at at moms.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.

I am very much a traditionalist. A wood working bench should be made in one of the classical styles, your choice. If you want a universal bench to pound on and cut metal on and whatever then make it out of anything you want. The OP's question was about a Wood Working Bench hence my replies.

Looking at your shop, John, I would not refer to you as a traditionalist. You are, in my mind, somewhat "out-of-the-ordinary" especially as a home craftsman. You have a really nice shop and it is also nicely equipped. It therefore deserves a nice dedicated hard wood work bench. But it is not a traditional shop.

My garage shop is what I consider to be a shop for the traditional home hobby workshop.

Having said that, my work bench areas are all made using salvaged hard core doors that have been recovered at least three times with new sheets of 1/4" hardboard. I think the most important characteristics are that the bench be flat, level and solid. To be solid, it might have to be heavy. Mine meet all of those qualifications and I will probably die with the same workbenches in place (hopefully with a couple new top surfaces).

Dusty,
I was inclined to flip the top layer of my solid core door but I have already used up all four surfaces. at one time I had a router insert in the bottom layer so its got a big hole on one end and the current top layer is full of staples and nails on the current bottom side.
And yes, were all expecting you to get through half a dozen or more top surfaces in your bench!
I'll definitely rebuild from the ground up and make a traditional style bench with a side vice and end vice. Its just the top I'm debating. I want to continue to use some bench dogs and all. I'm thinking a hardwood plywood layered up top would be just as good and easier to replace/refinish than a traditional maple top. I'll still wrap it with a hardwood skirt. No tool well, and maybe narrower than my solid core door top. Its just a little too wide and it always gives me a reason to pile stuff up on one side or another.

[jsburger]

JS I agree, I NEVER do metal work on my WW bench, I have a separate bench for that, both at home at at moms.
I dont care for plywood only because even layed flat at the BB stores they seem to have a arch to them, that is why I prefer OSB for my base and then top that with what ever floats your boat if you are doing a layering efect.
Some prefer soft tops, I prefer a hard top.
A solid core door is great, but most are veneered, so if me I would top coat it with at least 1/4" Tempered HB, or maybe 1/2" MDF and a few coats of Poly.
Many different right ways.

I am very much a traditionalist. A wood working bench should be made in one of the classical styles, your choice. If you want a universal bench to pound on and cut metal on and whatever then make it out of anything you want. The OP's question was about a Wood Working Bench hence my replies.

Are we misinterpreting each other again?
1st separate benches for metal and wood working.
My 2nd opinion/point was about a WW bench, as far as what the top could be made of. Yes some like solid, in my cost analysis a good hard wood top bench top cost more then what I did and described as options to a solid bench top unless making it out of pine or fir 2x4s which would be softer and lighter.

No, I don't think so.

[jsburger]

Here is the thing if you use maple and butcher block or end grain they will look super. However if you use them they will get damaged. The end of each year of high school shop class we refinished the work bench tops. Pretty intense WORK.

I would use ply, hardboard, or pine 2x4 on edge. Easy to replace or sand smooth to renew the top.

Any time you want to check out resurfacing a maple top let me know I will let you work on my bench which I made from bowling alley. Biggest problem is getting flat again after numerous gouges, drill holes, saw oops, hammer strikes and etc. problem is you can't us a plane because there is metal imbedded into the top, from drilling metal, filing metal, cutting metal, sharpening metal.

I am seriously considering two layers of 3/4 to cover it, Or giving it to one of my SIL or Grandson and build a new design out of 1 1/2 inch ply. Solid core door would be excellent and probably the most economical. Plus if you use two layers you have 4 new surfaces to use before you either refinish or replace.

I think a high school wood shop is a poor example. The kids don't yet understand what they are doing and have not yet developed a work ethic. If they damaged maple tops bad enough to require refinishing they would have destroyed plywood.

I thought we are talking about a wood working bench not a metal working bench. If you have destroyed your bowling alley bench top I feel sorry. I wish I could find a piece of a bowling alley. Send yours it to me and I will fix it and use it. I take pride in my bench tops and try to protect them in any way I can. If you have destroyed a bowling alley bench top a plywood top has no chance of success. JMHO.

Point i was trying to make if a high school shop,class can damage a bench top in 9 months enough that it must be refinished how often would it have to be refinished in use in a work shop? Probably everyb4 or 5 years.

As far as doing metal working on the bench. I drill hinges and handles, cut hinges to length, and sharpen my tools on my bench. Haven't built a iron fence or a cast iron wood stove in a long time.

The point I was trying to make was I would not try to plane my work bench smooth using a GOOD plane. Too many chances to ruin the blade or score the sole plate.

I have seen shops with magnificent work benches and I have seen shops with benches that looked like they were used 100 years in a machine shop. I have seen the finished products from each type of shop. To me the bench does not make the craftsman or even signify a craftsman. It is the finished work the person does.

PS my bowling alley top is far from ruined. It just needs some attention and I am trying to decide what is the wisest thing to do. I am about 20 years past the pretty coffee table type work bench. So don't watch the mail for me to send you my top.

OK, points taken. I guess I misunderstood some of what you said.